Advice required on DIY mains IEC leads for home cinema kit

I used to have a normal bog standard scart lead connecting sky+ to the TV - it did what it said on the tin and carrried audio and video to the tv.

I replaced it with a QED scart cable which is dedicated RGB only meaning no sound, just picture.

If the old SCART lead was only partially wired or you were using something other than RGB (remember that SCART can also carry S-video and CVBS/composite) then changing to RGB is bound to make a difference.

I'm openly willing to accept than when unusually long distances are involved between equipment then there is indeed gain to be had by using better quality cables. What I'm not convinced of is any difference between a standard, fully-wired SCART lead that's a metre or so long behind your TV, and a product ten times the price with gold plated connections and teflon insulated oxygen free copper.

We'll all have to agree that A/V enthusiasts always have and will claim vast improvements in their system in line with the amount of cash spent, and that's fine. In my personal opinion, though, there comes a point where you're spending money on products that make absolutely no discernible difference to sound or picture quality.

Of course, if you're willing to spend insane amounts of money in the first place then you're bound to conceive a difference when you insert your new £1000 speaker leads. My bone is that no manufacturers, retailers or enthusiasts are interested in providing any meaningful science or testing to back up their claims. For example, it would be extremely easy for a manufacturer to set up a test rig with a PC based oscilloscope and a signal source, then plot the signals at both the source and receiving end of their cable. They could then compare this with a typical out-of-the-box SCART lead. If it's such an easy test then why don't they do it? Simple - they would prove that most (if not all) of the marketing ploys of their product(s) are, in fact, snake oil. Not to mention their excuses when blind tests prove the pointlessness of their products...

BUT - the more expensive cable provided a much clearer/ sharper picture with move vivid colours.

Isn't that the same quote that most AV enthusiasts use? :p

Yes it is digital so carries information in form of "0" and "1".
You may argue that the signal either gets there or it doesnt so no matter what lead you use, its will either work or it wont.

Stop to think for a minute though....because all those 0's and 1's need to be broken down, then transmitted and finally converted into picture and sound.

Yes, digital is supposedly lossless transfer of data but can you be certain that some of the data is not lost or mis interpreted between output and input?

You're right on that one. Although the data is digital, the signal can become corrupted in one way or another between devices. A couple of out of place 1's and 0's here and there won't necessarily mean the all-or-nothing that people typically talk about when referring to digital signals. The sheer amount of bandwidth on a HDMI connection means that small amount of lost data would be hardly noticeable. However, it could be enough to cause artifacts on the screen.

The 'cliff effect' referred to by Flameport is referring more to radio signals such as digital terrestrial. This problem is caused because a digital tuner requires a set signal strength to be able to operate effectively. Once the signal strength falls below that level, it is no longer possible for the tuner to operate. However, this is NOT the same issue as I'm discussing above.

Again, my bone is when people claim improvements such as "much more vivid colour" when they've just parted with £200 for a HDMI lead. Following similar logic, does that mean that if I upgrade the network lead to my computer, I might be able to get a better picture on BBC iPlayer? Please...

Besides, for short leads such as those found in a typical home theatre setup, I still don't believe that upgrades to HDMI cables will make any noticeable difference whatsoever. The problem only comes with longer cables where capacitance and issues with signal timing/convergence can hack up the signal pretty bad. That's the same with any high bandwidth digital interconnect, and why cat5 has over time been superseded by cat5e, cat6, cat7 and even cat8, although I'm not sure the latter is a formal standard.
 
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Matthew,

You know thats how all "us" audiphiles talk ! :LOL:

I too agree that spending £200 on a HDMI lead is ridiculous....i paid £30 for the ones ive got. Yes they are upmarket if you like, not the freebie or cheap muck from Tesco etc.

I dont spend masses of cash, id rather buy more blu rays than waste hundreds of pounds.

Just like to try and get the best out of what i have without breaking the bank and if a little tweak like improving the power cables "MAY" do something, then it "MAY" be worth a small outlay and have a go at making some myself.

I too agree that alot of this whole "audiophile" blather is rubbish...ive seen some ridiculously expensive leads and i wouldnt buy 'em because, regardless of what some people may think....i do have some common sense. :eek:
 
OK, so back to the original topic then! As others have mentioned, 2.5mmsq conductors will be difficult to fit into an IEC connector. If you buy a good quality connector with pillar terminals then you might physically be able to terminate the conductors, but it's unlikely you'll be able to tighten down the cable grip. I'd suggest not going any larger than 1.5mmsq.

Secondly, neither IECs or 13A plugs are designed to take SY cable. You could try and twist the outer braiding together and than use some sleeving or heatshrink to cover it until it reaches the terminals, but I think you'd struggle to fit both that and the earth conductor into a signal terminal. I wouldn't really be happy about using the braiding as a sole means of earthing without having the proper terminations, which you can't really do without a gland. Catch 22, as you can't gland into either of the aforementioned connectors!
 
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Any comments welcome....

The article has this sentence
There is likely some 30 to 150 m (100 to 500 feet) of power cable from your home power outlet to the transformer on the power line. It is hard to imagine that ANY 1.5 m (5 ft) length of power cord inserted between the outlet and your Hi-Fi equipment will make any audible difference.

That is correct.



Belden 83803 is a high quility cable. The cable features 12 AWG tinned copper conductors, teflon insulation, foil shielding with 85% tinned copper braid shield and a Teflon jacket. The photograph below shows the Belden 83803 cable. However, any industrial shielded cable with three twisted conductors and a good shield will suffice.

industrial shielded cable == designed to cope with the mechanical hazards in industrial use..

teflon == for hot locations with out melting

The shielding in industrial cable is primarily a safety feature to protect against electrical shock hazards when the cable is damaged.

If the earth wiring of the power socket is electrically noisy then connecting the screen to earth can INCREASE the amount of electrical noise on the power conductors.

And if anyone wonders why the red wire is connected to earth in that cable then in the USA white = neutral. BLACK = LIVE and red or orange is earth.
 
The article aslo says:

This project documents the construction of a shielded power cable using quality components. This power cable will be able to deliver a lot of current and the sheilding will reduce the potential of picking up stray RF or injecting noise into nearby interconnect cables.

So, who's right and whos wrong?
 
I appreciate the purpose of the shielding, but isnt that for SY cables? where the braid is galvanised steel for mechanical purposes.....

The braid in the cable i am looking at is tinned copper...surely the cable manufacturer wouldnt use copper for mechanical purposes due to cost, therfore, with copper being a superb conductor, its there to be connected as an earth surely?
 
AFAIK the braid is a way of ensuring that if a drill bit/nail goes into the cable, it will hit the earth (the earthed screen) first before hitting a live conductor, creating a short, thus ensuring the breaker trips and you don't get fried.
From an audiophile perspective the screen is a noise filter/catcher.
 
AFAIK???? whats that? :eek:

Im sure the braiding that exists on SY cable IS there to stop damage to the cable but why use copper in CY cable braiding unless its gonna conduct something! - pointless waste of money from the manufacturers side eh?

From the little i know (just via researching) SY is galvanised so wouldnt be a good choice for audiophile use whereas CY is.

Someone tell me if im wrong eh?
 
This power cable will be able to deliver a lot of current
Cables carry current, they don't deliver it. Assuming it isn't ludicrously small the amount which flows is determined by the load on the end, and no matter how large you make the cable your equipment isn't going to draw more current


and the sheilding will reduce the potential of picking up stray RF or injecting noise into nearby interconnect cables.
Those ferrite beads are to stop cables connected to devices which might generate RF noise becoming antennae.

There are strict rules for EM emissions from consumer equipment - if the PSUs in audio equipment generated any then the makers would fit beads to their cables.
 
Ban,

Think your misquotin me there, i dont think i put that at all mate!

Appreciate what you say about ferrite clip ons, ive bought a small 19" LCD Tv a short while ago which had a ferrite bead on the power cable as standard....
 
Appreciate all your input folks.

If i decide to go ahead using either 1.5 or 2.5, what i would like to know is if the termination of the braiding is safe.....im the first to admit im not an electrician hence being here to ask those that are.

Assuming i connect the earth core at both ends (where appropriate if the appliance has one or not), is it going to be safe to terminate the braid at the wall end using the earth pin on the plug and leave it unconnected (cut back and properly insulated to avoid stray wires) at the appliance end.

Also, if the appliance has no earth, just live/neutral....would i just cut back the earth core at the appliance end (properly insulated) or should/could it be connected to the braid at the appliance end (again, ensuring insulation).

Please dont shoot me down in flames - im just asking for wiring advice, not wether its gonna make any improvements to audio/visual performance. I'd just like to know for sure how to do it safely and correctly.

Again, any input more than welcome.
 

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