Advice required on DIY mains IEC leads for home cinema kit

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> I may need to slightly enlarge the entry and provide some strength for the flex.

and...

> create some leads with fig8 c7

and...

> Main thing being - its all safe and secure!


No.
You are going to struggle with all of this due to cable CSA (core dia).

1. Cancel or Ebay the order for 2.5mm CSA.
2. Re-order 1.5mm instead.

2.5mm gives you absolutely NO BENEFIT.
Worse you may end up with terminals stretched and a 4am fire.

Flexes DO set fire to carpets.
My mothers old vacuum cleaner flex broke just below the moulded plug (skirting sockets). It arced, sparked, then set fire to the carpet. I actually stood watching deliberately then got the CO2 extinguisher because she was very lax re electrical safety and busy wondering why it kept start/stopping without investigating a growing fire.

Caught a 30yr old wall mounted convector shedding sparks from the element before the carpet ignited. Very common for such old bare black-heat element convectors to be wall mounted, forgotten about, element gets red hot-spots, then end of life "interesting" failure mode.

Ask Schurter what size cable to fit in their IEC & Fig8 C7.
 
Harmonised 450/750v rubber conductor insultaion, polychoroprene jacket with fine wire-flexible cable.

Or rubberised flex :LOL:
 
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Spark123, also known as Phwooarrrghhhh :))

Far nicer than CY. Lovely flexibility.
Appropriate dark matt finish for audiophile applications.

Also comes in 16mm 3c, so sufficient for even the most discerning listener.
Think they do 400mm 1c, so easy to use 100m to biwire your speakers.


... someone email Monsieur Darling with Audiophile's shopping lists...
 
god knows ! like i said, trying to knock these cables up myself and thats about the only place i could get a rewireable c7 plug!
 
and just what is H07RNF? - remember i am a novice lol :LOL:
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:harcode


Comments??????????
Why would you want to electroplate electrical contacts with a poor conductor of electricity?

Seriously - if you really are concerned about the quality of the connection between your power cord and your equipment through its IEC plug then by far and away the cheapest way to achieve a guaranteed 100% removal of all such problems is to not use a connector/receptacle - open the kit up, drill a hole in the case, put in a strain relief bush, take the flex through that and solder it.

You can even use silver solder if you want.
 
That's probably why they aren't available without being molded to a flex.
 
How is heatshrink going to provide strain relief?
They mean abrasion resistance from hacking too big a cable to fit!

Incidentally re gold plated connector contacts.
- Gold to Gold = Good --- does not oxidise
- Tin to Tin = Good --- oxidation excludes oxygen from contacts

Gold plating comes in many forms & processes re quality.
You can DIY homeplating with a simple kit from ?Frosts Auto?


What does H07RNF look like?
- Remember BBC extension leads, expensive £150+ power tools?
- They use H07RNF, a tough rubber cable which is attractive, flexible
- Pond cable is cheaper, thinner, H05RNF (300/500V rating like CY)

Who sells H07RNF?
- Ebay often lists it under H07 or HO7 (note the miss-spelling)
- For 1.5mm go to Google & do a search under "Marque H07"

I really think 2.5mm is the wrong size. It will just make problems.
You can PET cover the H07 just the same.


I would spend the saving re Clipsal/CY/Wattgate on...
- Improving room acoustics re soft-furnishing vs hard floor
- Acoustic isolation of CD player or especially Vinyl, better pickup etc
- Better speakerstands that don't rock about, spiked to the floor
- MUSIC, VIDEO, the fact your TV is probably only going to last 3yrs (if a plasma the average life is 18 months so you know)

Many other things to spend on than "silver braided cable" with PET over it on the offchance that your mains cable is picking up martians :) It isn't, I could stick a ILS beacon outside your door and your power cables will not care.
 
god knows ! like i said, trying to knock these cables up myself and thats about the only place i could get a rewireable c7 plug!
Good luck trying to get 3 core 2.5mm² CY into one of those!

Have you thought about how you'd dress the cables, and support the weight? Those C7/C8 affairs are designed to cope with the mechanical strain of 0.5/0.75mm² flat 2-core flex - your CY will impose mechanical loads far greater than they can withstand.
 
They use IEC inlets because...

1) it allows the same product for many markets, just a different power cord

2) it allows a power cord with a prefitted plug since many people can't actually fit a plug well / safely / at-all

Remember that guy with the electric boiler, melting cables, interesting head CPD selection & design.
 
LIke i said guys, im a relative novice, maybe i have (even though i tried to research properly) become a foul victim of the "snake oil" marketeers.

The cable ive bought, yeah, 2.5mm 3 core lapp classic CY, i guess, is going to cause me some headaches in trying to fit it into IEC connectors.

I appreciate the scenario of using 2.5mm with that dinky little c7 plug given the fact there is no strain relief.

Given the fact that these cables are to be put in situ, arent going to move (unless a heavy spider happens to crawl on one :LOL: ), should i be overly concerned about strain releif - as long as its sufficiently done as per this picture;

http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages...ages=103583205,103583212&formats=0,0&format=0

That looks fairly rigid to me???
 
The photos there, if you look at the cable markings, show the use of 2.5 3 core cy.......if they managed to do that and are selling it, surely, i could create my own and have it equally rigid?
 

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