Altered header pressure resulted in reduced capacity

Hmm. The vent pipe extends higher than before but it open end is no higher than the header (its conjoined to it)
The vent pipework should rise a certain height above the water level depending on the distance between the level in the cold tank vs the bottom of the hot tank. This was obviously engineered into the tank for them being bolted together. If you think it's only about 25cm higher now, moving the float down to lower the level an inch should be plenty.
 
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The vent pipework should rise a certain height above the water level depending on the distance between the level in the cold tank vs the bottom of the hot tank. This was obviously engineered into the tank for them being bolted together. If you think it's only about 25cm higher now, moving the float down to lower the level an inch should be plenty.
Im oblivious on the physics involved and will definitely try this lowering of the float. How do i lower the float? You mean the ball float thing?


Ericmark,
No the header tank as-factory-made is not heated, and there is insulation between the tanks, although, come to think of it there were 3 copper standoffs connecting the main tank to the header tank. So maybe there was a little heat transfer , but i don’t think its considerable enough to affect capacity

Not really keen to buy anything tbh. Its already a cheap hack system. I can live with less bath water if it comes to it.
 
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If using off-peak, once water is run off, it is not reheated, that will only happen over night.
I understand that. I only suggested as an placeholder to test constricted feed pipework theory
 
Your cylinder has a capacity, immersion heater to top of tank, it is not really practicable to move immersion heater down, so to use more of the cylinder, I was looking at Willis, but I live in Mid Wales, and the Willis experts are in Ulster, so worried as to if I can find some one who knows what he is doing?

How many immersion heaters do you have, and how are they controlled?
 
Many controllers have a boost option, also having upper immersion set to lower temperature to lower one, can mean some sort of automation, so upper only cuts in when you use a lot of water.

I only have one immersion heater, and it goes into the top of the cylinder, and is not that long, if I had a second lower down my controller will heat top first, then once hot auto swap to bottom one, but my controller is designed to work with solar panels, there are special timers for Eco 7,
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but Eco 7 is a tariff not a system, and the system varies, the old white meter used a different timer to some of the new smart meters, and the new smart meter seems about three different ways, some with a trigger wire, some with two outputs, and some all the timing is left to the user. So it depends on your system as to what will work best.
 
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Its a bit off topic I suggest you pm me these questions

One heater. Auto controlled (on/off times set manually )
 
Now I remember seeing it. There is a knurled cap near the ball float. I assume this adjusts the level .
 
Im oblivious on the physics involved and will definitely try this lowering of the float. How do i lower the float? You mean the ball float thing?
Yep the ball float, you can try just bending it down a bit
 
Here
Apologies for blurry photos

The knurled knob may be in fact a flow restrictor
 

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Is there an online resource that explains the ball height vs header height ?
 
It doesnt look like it could go much lower there in all honesty, I'd be surprised if the valve even opens fully when empty. The highest point of the vent pipe is supposed to be 150mm + 40mm per metre of head above the water level. Push the ball down and let a bit of water in, see if anything comes back through the vent pipe.
 

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