Anyone here build they're own shed?

well you assumed its 5 " look at my comments above

also 80 = vat is about 95 ish ok sorry this parts wrong its obviously the cost of the treatment :LOL:

timber worked is normaly about 6mm smaller allround but with tXg thats ontop of the planing operation so it finnishes up covering 110 when interlocked together

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

also dont forget you will need corner pieces i used 2x1treated [actual size ]and 3x1treated for any corner you have to hang a door on
 
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Yes as always you are correct :D

so if i get them in 3m lenghs, that would be alot better so need 57 @3m.

That's alot :D

Just gotta work out the frame, and roof and floor now

Probally do the frame 2x2 and the boards are OSB as said above and measure


2440 x 1220 x 11mm OSB £10.50 each
2440 x 1220 x 18mm OSB £14.50 each
 
big-all said:
also dont forget you will need corner pieces i used 2x1treated [actual size ]and 3x1treated for any corner you have to hang a door on

For the frame?
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So need 3 OSB boards
 
you have to ask them what lengths they have or what they can get
if the lenght dont work out you may have to add an extra 10% as you may not be able to use long offcuts any where

also theres a good chance you will have to wait for it to be sent away for treatment then wait several weeks to dry out propperly

another point did you say the door was going to match as in ship lap if so add extra lengths to the equasion
 
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Hightowermark said:
big-all said:
also dont forget you will need corner pieces i used 2x1treated [actual size ]and 3x1treated for any corner you have to hang a door on

For the frame?

no you screw these on the corners of one side overlapping by one inch so you have one inch proud to cut you planks inbetweem and cover the edges and when you turn the corner to do that wall you also have a one inch piece of wood sticking to go up to

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Hightowermark wrote:
Yeah will see what they say.

You ment the frame is 2x1? and any Doors 3x1?


no the corners are 2by1 unless a door is hanging off the wood

i used 3by 2 untreated for my frame
going to have my supper now so you can digest all the information
and stop us posting on top of each other icon_wink.gif
 
Ahhh

So you need 2 (2x1) on each corner and then the shiplap will but against this to keep all the edges neet.

makes sence now.
 
What is the 11mm OSB for? It sounds a bit thin for either floor or roof.
 
lots off people swear by osb :LOL:
never realy used it except for aditional support on a garden shed floor or fully coverd rabit cages

ive used 18mmply for my roof and floor
roof suported at 4ft centres max floor at 2ft centres which i now think is a bit far appart perhaps 18 inches or crossbracing at 24"who knows
its only slight dips with all the weight in the workshop [a 34kg dewalt flipsaw with 4 legs for example 9kg on a square inch] about a mm up to 3mm deflection not a lot but enough
just thinking with a washing machine in your case may do a tango if not properly supported :LOL:
 
unsure about the OSB and havent used it before, is the ply alot more expensive? Rather it be safe than going back to it in a year or so.

What is the wood that looks like a leafy pattern?
 
osb [orient strand board] looks like odd bits of wood compressed together [cos thats what it is] suatable for the roofing at18mm but not floors
i pay £22 for my 18mmext ply
 
I think I would make sure the weight of the washing machine is transfered straight onto your blocks, or the shed may migrate.

big-all I have used OSB and ply for floors but never had a problem with either (apart from a sheet of ply de-laminating once), have you had problems with OSB?
 
to be honest no but i tend to over enginner rather than minimum for the job
just think with eterior ply you get a good working surface that you can walk strait on and know iy will last

although i have seen sheds completly constructed from osb that after several years unprotected [no finnish applied]and its just starting to shed layers as you would expect at tha bottom ;)
 
Ok guys, it's not a Washing Machine it's a tumble dryer.

Just got a few more quotes and before discount £0.75 p/m for treated shiplap. There are two local building yards and it's about split which is cheaper so will go to both get them to match the other, and then get the discount.

Quick question reagarding the Shiplap, is this ok to put straight on the frame? No back behind it.

Also what is the best stuff to paint the roof with before the felt goes on?

Thanks guys you really have helped alot over the last few days will post pictures when starting it.
 
some people say building paper but i didnt botherd as i still aint shure about breathability if i install insulation

i dont think you will have to paint the roof the felt protects it !!!!!!!!
isnt your roof going to need more than just felt because of the shallow angle!!!

ask for a dry offcut from your shiplap for measurement purposes if they have to send it away for treatment
 

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