Anyone Know What This (Ed: Electronic part) Is Called?

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Either way, whatever value it is - it's best to actually measure it with a multimeter to confirm it's value.
Well the whole point about it was the resistor was open circuit and I was attempting a repair.


for no3 - assuming that it is red,brown,red,black,orange,orange. = 212 Ω ±0.05% (W) 15ppm/K (P)
How about if it looked like this:
1697756149068.png
 
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Not being funny or critical etc I've not struggled to 'read' values of 3 band components for 60 years and at the beginning there was as much Body, Tip, Dot around. Until recently with LED lighting.

Same difficulty here.. LED light has a lot to answer for.

I am old enough to have seen resistors with their values hand written on the component.
 
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Thanks for all the replies, sorry for the delay, I have it set to notify me if answered but no notifications.
Sunray, yes I have a multimeter
At 20k I'm getting a different reading every time, anything from 6. something to 19. something but the reading goes back down to 1 every time despite keeping the probes on the legs.

Pcaouolte The board is brown the other side too exactly at the solder joints of the resistor

jj4091 I've seen that board but at two thirds the price of the fan (with delivery) no point really. I was just going to faff for a laff.

Random & Matty Those are the colours. Red Red Brown Gold

So, is the resistor blown, if so, any clue out of all those above is the right one?
Cheers
Edit. 220 5 from what I can gather. About 14p each but sold as multiples plus delivery. Must find a local electronics shop.
I'm new to all this. Perhaps you can tell!
 
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Detlef.
Getting the same with one end disconnected. Different reading each time and reading immediately going to 1
 
And the meter battery is ok? Just asking because a failure of the resistor isn't something I'd expect. Oh well!
 
1697820668529.png

Thanks to Bernards link to the circuit above and Randoms image the only variations I see are 280KΩ Vs 270KΩ and 1K5Ω Vs 150Ω, both of which I'm happy to accept as reading the bands incorrectly or manufacturing differences.

I've highlighted the only position a higher power resistor would be fitted and it shows as 22KΩ or 24KΩ. That tallies with one of my laptops and 2 others diagnosis.

That is going to be running at approx. 2.5W 24/365 or 34KWh (£10) per year, trying to fit a 220Ω would be attempting to pass 1A and dissipate 220W. EDIT: just realised this is half wave rectified so the powers I quote should be approximately 0.5W and 50W. Doing that would not destroy the new resistor but instead will instantly destroy ZD1 immediately followed by IC1 and 47μF cap as a minimum.

Spooked.
As it's 22KΩ you will have to set your meter to 200kΩ.
The reason you see a value which drops off is your meter is charging up a capacitor and totally expected and normal. If you disconnect the board completely you shouldn't see that effect.
 
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Retested Sunray, using 200
The reading is a solid 22.2
I'm assuming after moving the decimal point that the 200 means, as suspected by most, the resistor is fine?
 
I'm guessing your meter looks something like this:
1697996694933.png


So yes the 200K setting and I'd expect the reading to be 22.0 plus or minus 5% so anywhere between 20.9 to 23.1 will be within spec.
Do the solder joints look sound?
 
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Yes, the meter is similar.
The solder joints look fine, just the browning to front and back on both joints which originally made me think component failure.
No other signs of failure of any other components.
 
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