You may need to use a hammer, with a piece of wood on top of the pin to avoid damaging it. It will just be tension on the door hinge, preventing it being pushed back into place. The pins creeping out in use, is a common problem.
Anyway to make this door shut slowly?
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
You may need to use a hammer, with a piece of wood on top of the pin to avoid damaging it. It will just be tension on the door hinge, preventing it being pushed back into place. The pins creeping out in use, is a common problem.
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Why don't you call a handyman to sort it out for you?
Andy
Andy
D
Deleted member 174758
The right angle solution looks like this:
Note that the arm extends out from the body of the closer at right angles (that's the bit of the joists tied arm at the left in the photo) and that the other end of the arm forms a "V". In order to understand how these are installed I suggest that you look up and download the instructions for the particular door closer fitted to your door instead of trying to guess your way out of this (you probably won't succeed). If you can't find the model, try looking around for alternatives as many models work (and are installed) in a similar way with most having two adjusters (for closer speed and latching speed respectively) either on the face, at the ends or on the top or bottom of the body. Typically they are adjustable by screwdriver or metric hex bit). If you can't find the brand and model you want you may find a similar model by looking for the brands commonly used by the trade including Arrone, Briton and Ryobi/Dorma
It isn't rocket science - I've shown first year apprentices how to install these a few times - but it is surprisingly easy for even professionals to screw-up an installation if they've not installed one for a while and they are too proud to READ THE FLAMIN' MANUAL (RTFM) before starting
Note that the arm extends out from the body of the closer at right angles (that's the bit of the joists tied arm at the left in the photo) and that the other end of the arm forms a "V". In order to understand how these are installed I suggest that you look up and download the instructions for the particular door closer fitted to your door instead of trying to guess your way out of this (you probably won't succeed). If you can't find the model, try looking around for alternatives as many models work (and are installed) in a similar way with most having two adjusters (for closer speed and latching speed respectively) either on the face, at the ends or on the top or bottom of the body. Typically they are adjustable by screwdriver or metric hex bit). If you can't find the brand and model you want you may find a similar model by looking for the brands commonly used by the trade including Arrone, Briton and Ryobi/Dorma
It isn't rocket science - I've shown first year apprentices how to install these a few times - but it is surprisingly easy for even professionals to screw-up an installation if they've not installed one for a while and they are too proud to READ THE FLAMIN' MANUAL (RTFM) before starting
Last edited by a moderator:
D
Deleted member 267285
I’ve just found this: https://www.howdens.com/-/media/how...t_levelc_110643/depotlink_0165e2e01b3d4dc.pdf could be more likely?
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Landlord should sort problems in communal areas .
He should do but sometimes its quicker to do it yourself
Not with this bloke!!!!!!!!
You would have more chance if Scooby Doo was doing it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Andy
D
Deleted member 267285
I’ve no idea if it’s the model or not, however several came up when I typed in certifire. I’ve just also found this video which may assist you and save you some money:
Buy a new one, and fit it properly using the template included with it.
Distance from the hinge and the correct positioning of the arm are both critical for proper operation.
Preferably get one that has concealed adjustment screws, as people randomly tampering with it will just lead to another failure.
If it does need adjusting, note that the adjustment is turning the screws by a small amount - most certainly NOT rotating them around dozens of times, which is a quick way to destroy them completely.
Distance from the hinge and the correct positioning of the arm are both critical for proper operation.
Preferably get one that has concealed adjustment screws, as people randomly tampering with it will just lead to another failure.
If it does need adjusting, note that the adjustment is turning the screws by a small amount - most certainly NOT rotating them around dozens of times, which is a quick way to destroy them completely.
Take it off and put it on the bathroom scales.
Andy
Andy
I spoke to someone who sells doors and closers. Apparently glass in these doors weighs 20kg per square metre. The rest a bit less. So the door no more than 40 kg.
I've asked the guy who runs the flats to get someone in as it's £120. If I messed up the fixings into the PVC I'd have to look at the other residents every day. Just get some other guy orvprooerty management company we use to promise to replace it if they mess up for free.
I've asked the guy who runs the flats to get someone in as it's £120. If I messed up the fixings into the PVC I'd have to look at the other residents every day. Just get some other guy orvprooerty management company we use to promise to replace it if they mess up for free.
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