appliance isolators

[CuriousI]

Hi,

I am building a new kitchen and the layout is posing a few challenges with regards to locating isolators.

Order of cabinets; pan drawing with hob, washing machine, sink unit, dishwasher (underdrainer), external wall.

So where do I put the isolators for the hob, washing machine and dishwasher. I really dont want them above the counter. I'm not sure that would even work because of proximity to the hob and sink. Is it possible to put the isolators below the sink. I have a new consumer unit fitted at the end of the project as well.

Im trying to run the cable/arrange the kitchen before you get excited and tell me to get a qualified electrician. Yes but he will arrive after the kitchen is fitted.

Thanks in advance...

 

[JohnD]

I really dont want them above the counter

get used to the idea.

Where are the sockets for your toaster, mixer, espresso, phone charger, kettle etc?

electrician. will arrive after the kitchen is fitted.

wrong order.

 

[bernardgreen]

What are the isolators for ?

To isolate the appliance if it is faulty is one function.

So one day you see a hob or the oven glowing red hot because a thermostat has failed. In that situation do you really want to have to empty a cupboard to find the isolator switch ?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Im trying to run the cable

Do you know how to do the calculations for the size you need, and what the rules are about where it may run?

 

[ericmark]

An isolator should be visible from the work station can't really be visible in a cupboard.

There is a difference with TT and TN supplies as the former needs twin pole isolators so in certain homes having a kitchen consumer unit can remove the requirement for an isolator near the appliance. Also isolators come in two forms emergency switching and isolation and there is a list of what can be used for both types.

So lets look at the kitchen.

We have the washing machine if you have ever seen one where the weights have come loose you would never consider not having a very accessible isolator.

The cooker does depend on the design. Clearly with a fire you don't want to reach across the burning area to isolate some have controls at side, some at front and some on the eye level grill and in the main we design a kitchen to take any type. Plus of course any touch controls can't be relied on to isolate.

Oven again common to have controls above the door so must have an isolator I have seen it when a kid put an unopened can in an oven clearly needs an isolator which is not in the direct line of fire.

The freezer in theroy you should be able to turn off at the freezer controls but I have found when trying to de-frost often these don't work as expected so as to is isolator is required depends on where the plug is.

As to smaller items like the toaster and kettle then likely unplugging is good enough however a plug on the work top can get wet so having sockets with switches so the plug can be left in place again makes sense.

Some times the clean look is not the best idea for use. I remember my mothers touch control induction hob where it took 35 seconds to turn it off requiring multi-touches on the controls and from a wheel chair she could not see the controls or the display. It was swapped to one with knobs on it's so much faster with a knob also visible. I do wonder how children would have worked the hob they would have needed to have lent over the food they were cooking?

There was a discussion at the time of fitting my mothers kitchen as at a hight where she could reach at the back door to outside there was a mini consumer unit supplying the kitchen so in any emergency on leaving the room all could be isolated and as a result it was questionable if it really needed a second point of isolation in the kitchen? However the electrician still fitted local isolators which were really useless as my mother could not reach them from in a wheel chair.

The only one used is the fridge freezer one by me when de-frosting and with frost free that is very rare. So there will be kitchens where not really required.

 

[AndyPRK]

Maybe this is the example where a small grid would be useful for the washing machine, dishwasher.

Maybe a 4 way one with 20A switches.

 

[JohnD]

next to the door perhaps.

but OP needs to discuss layout with his proposed electrician first

It would be most unwise to fit the kitchen, and then have to channel the walls and remove units to run cables and sink boxes.

 

[sparkwright]

Maybe this is the example where a small grid would be useful for the washing machine, dishwasher.

Maybe a 4 way one with 20A switches.

This is the best answer.

You may need an alternative solution if you need a 45 amp switch or similar for cooker.

Many, many new kitchens do have sockets and isolators hidden away in cupboards because it looks neater.

But it's not recommended.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Many, many new kitchens do have sockets and isolators hidden away in cupboards because it looks neater.

That'll be because the kitchen was designed by someone ignorant of the primary purpose of one.

 

[JohnD]

a kitchen is an ornament, isn't that its main purpose?

 

[stillp]

BAS prepares food in his.
Not everyone does - I know a guy with a yuppy flat near Canary Wharf, who hasn't used his kitchen since he moved in about 7 years ago. He eats out, or has food delivered. How the other half live...

 

[ekmdgrf]

How do you know what BAS does with his kitchen?

 

[stillp]

How do you know what BAS does with his kitchen?

He's my secret love child, how do you think I know?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

How do you know what BAS does with his kitchen?

At the weekends, when he prefers to be known as Susan, he comes round and we do it together.

 

[stillp]

Ooh Isobel, you promised you wouldn't tell!