ASKING FOR HELP FROM AN ELECTRICIAN/ENGINEER SOLDERING A MICROSWITCH WHICH WIRE GOES WHERE

[Tedpetal18]

Thank you know I haven’t, I have a multi meter but no idea what I’m doing. I think I’m going to have to give up with it.

Thank you know I haven’t, I have a multi meter but no idea what I’m doing. I think I’m going to have to give up with it.

So far as I know, there would be no connection between the the brake problem, and not switching on. The brake is released by powering the brake up, and goes on, when the power is removed.

How do you know the batteries are OK, have you checked the voltage across them?

Hi Harry ok so I Harlow tested the batteries they are both reading 13.0v which is what they should be according to the video I watched. I’m feeling a bit hopeless but also determined to fix it. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Burnerman]

Emma, are you absolutely sure nothing was connected to the middle connector?
A typical switch usually has a central common connector (C) and it switches one way (normally open (NO) or the other, normally closed (Marked NC).
John

 

[jj4091]

Apparently that model has a resetable trip and some fuses worth a look https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/sapphire-2-mobility-scooter-failure-any-pointers-please.562024/

 

[Tedpetal18]

Emma, are you absolutely sure nothing was connected to the middle connector?
A typical switch usually has a central common connector (C) and it switches one way (normally open (NO) or the other, normally closed (Marked NC).
John

Thanks John, yes as I had it running fine. The wheels were spinning perfectly. Then I assembled the scooter, sat on it went to go outside and it stopped. Now won’t turn on. I have spent another 4 hours today watching videos and check various connections & fuses with the multi meter. I’m now giving up. Thanks for taking the time to reply, it’s appreciated.

 

[Tedpetal18]

Apparently that model has a resetable trip and some fuses worth a look https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/sapphire-2-mobility-scooter-failure-any-pointers-please.562024/

Thank you the trip switch has been checked and is all fine. I’ll find out where the other 2 are. Thanks so much

 

[robinbanks]

I’ve been quoted £950 for a new brake.

I bought an entire scooter with new batteries from a local secondhand mobility place for 250!

If you've just bought it do you have any recourse to return it or have the seller fix it? Failing that a new component from an eBay seller should be significantly less than 950..

, I have a multi meter but no idea what I’m doing

Look for a setting that is "20 V ---"
Not the V with a wavy line ~
The V with a dotted line and solid line
Connect the black wire to com, connect the red wire to the connector that isn't marked with 10A (or some other number followed by an A)

If your meter has a HOLD button ensure it isn't clicked down
Put the red and blank prongs onto the terminals of one battery, it doesn't really matter which. The meter should read approx +13v or -13v (the minus depends on which way round you have the wires) if the battery is charged. If it's 11v or smaller (closer to 0) the battery needs charging.

You can use the meter on other connectors around the system to check if a voltage is being sent to them, like "is the pair of wires that goes to the electronic brake receiving a voltage", but caution: you should switch the meter to 200V--- mode if testing other parts of the system as it will likely be higher than 20 V that you're attempting to read

I think it's also quite likely your local tv repair place would be able to do a reasonable diagnostic on your scoot; they aren't a complicated system; the motor controller receives eg 24v from the batteries, takes a reading from the throttle and pulses 24v on and off to the motor in a varying ratio of onff to make it run at the demanded speed. There are a few switches that inhibit it, such as the brake micro switch that prevents the motor running if the brake is left on , but overall should be quite a basic system