Basic pipework facts please?

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If you've got an old tub of putty - the liquid and a bit of putty is basically " boss white";)
 
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Houston, we have a problem (to be honest, I'm surprised I got this far...)

So I’ve temporarily installed the toilet and cistern, as suggested, and connected up the inlet pipe loosely to the cistern. Now here’s the problem – where it ideally wants to join the pipe coming up out of the floor, there’s a soldered joint – AND the pipe below that is covered in solder which must have run down when the original joint was done.

So I don’t know what to do… I assume the compression joint won’t fit over the little sleeve that’s been soldered on? And I know it would never seal on the bit with the big blobs of solder…

HELP!!!!

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OK... not that I'm impatient or anything, but... would this be too much of a bend in the pipe, if I cut the riser on the angled section, and attached the compression joint there?

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Personally I wouldn’t bend it that much, but if it’s tank rather than mains pressure, you should be ok. If this was me, I’d be looking to unsweat the coupling, but appreciate this may be a bit beyond your skills. Also, don’t cut the pipe too close to the bend, it won’t be round and the compression fitting won’t go on.
 
I would rather use a separate isolation valve cos if the pipe goes you loose your isolation to change it?
Huh? If the pipe goes then the isolation valve still works, as the valve is before the hose.... if the compression fitting itself pops off then I agree, you are screwed, but that’s no different to if any compression or push fit fitting pops off at the compression ring. With the in built hoses. The difference is, you have 2 connections with the type purchased, the valve end and the shank end. If you use a separate valve, you have both sides of the valve and then both sides of the hose. 2 joints are safer than 4 IMO.
 
Personally I wouldn’t bend it that much, but if it’s tank rather than mains pressure, you should be ok. If this was me, I’d be looking to unsweat the coupling, but appreciate this may be a bit beyond your skills. Also, don’t cut the pipe too close to the bend, it won’t be round and the compression fitting won’t go on.


Yes it really feels wrong to bend it that far – whether it actually is or not. Although my plumbing skills are sadly lacking, I’m not a bodger, and like to do things properly where possible…


I guess, to remove that coupling as you suggest, I’d need to get some sort of blowlamp etc, then do some soldering. I was hoping to use this apparently simple job to learn a couple of basic plumbing skills, but looks like maybe I’m going to have to call the plumber in after all.


There’s only one reliable plumber around here, and he is competent too, but he can be monstrously expensive – charged my elderly parents £140 to fit two new taps to their hand basin (and they had to supply the taps).


If nobody comes up with any creative solutions tonight, guess I’ll call him tomorrow :notworthy:
 
So they sell a 300mm long one :whistle:

Or if desperate, you can buy 150mm ones:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0187NX1FC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nkiqDb2P4WMKA

Plumbing merchants will also have access to a wide variety of variants as well. All you need is 15mm to 1/2” female BSP. Most will say tap connector with isolator. I hope your screwfix is close to you - they will normally swap stuff like this for free, as long as it isn’t marked in anyway.
 

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