How big a pot did you look at? Wasn't sure if you had Screwfix over there, but this would be all you need! https://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-jointing-compound-400g/21548
How big a pot did you look at? Wasn't sure if you had Screwfix over there, but this would be all you need! https://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-jointing-compound-400g/21548
I always advise binning the cheap “thrown in” full valve with a brass shank fluidmaster - but that is up to you.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-bottom-entry-brass-shank-fill-valve/47792Could you point me at one of them please?
Huh? If the pipe goes then the isolation valve still works, as the valve is before the hose.... if the compression fitting itself pops off then I agree, you are screwed, but that’s no different to if any compression or push fit fitting pops off at the compression ring. With the in built hoses. The difference is, you have 2 connections with the type purchased, the valve end and the shank end. If you use a separate valve, you have both sides of the valve and then both sides of the hose. 2 joints are safer than 4 IMO.I would rather use a separate isolation valve cos if the pipe goes you loose your isolation to change it?
Personally I wouldn’t bend it that much, but if it’s tank rather than mains pressure, you should be ok. If this was me, I’d be looking to unsweat the coupling, but appreciate this may be a bit beyond your skills. Also, don’t cut the pipe too close to the bend, it won’t be round and the compression fitting won’t go on.
What’s the distance and what length hose did you buy? Is this mains or tank pressure?
What’s the distance and what length hose did you buy? Is this mains or tank pressure?
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