Basic pipework facts please?

[mrStat]

If you have the 300 then yeah, sorry, SF don’t sell smaller to my knowledge - plumbers merchants will (although they may need to order as the common sizes are 300 and 500). As it is tank pressure, you will get away with a bend like that, but it will look a bit pony. I’ve seen people literally curl them into a circle before - but as most will agree on here, it is not advised.

 

[Roger465]

Yeah cheers for all your help mate – I think I’m at the stage where I feel bu66ered though. Maybe sometimes the universe gives you messages saying enough is enough!

The plumber was going to charge me something like £250 to fit a new toilet – and actually, I’d have paid that, bearing in mind what a horrendous job removing the old one was going to be – but he’d have wanted to supply a real cheapo one, which I wouldn't have been able to look at first, as he likes to hide the price of things, and I specifically needed one which would cover the hole in the tiles left by the old toilet (it was tiled round).

He simply said “You won’t get one to do that, and you’ll have to move the soil pipe” etc – no idea what that was about, the waste lined up perfectly with the new toilet, which also completely covers the hole in the tiles.

So maybe he won’t charge me too much just to join these pipes…

 

[lostinthelight]

Huh? If the pipe goes then the isolation valve still works, as the valve is before the hose.... if the compression fitting itself pops off then I agree, you are screwed, but that’s no different to if any compression or push fit fitting pops off at the compression ring. With the in built hoses. The difference is, you have 2 connections with the type purchased, the valve end and the shank end. If you use a separate valve, you have both sides of the valve and then both sides of the hose. 2 joints are safer than 4 IMO.

You must see thing differently to me , cos the way I see it, the valve still works yes, but its attached to the flexy so to change it one has to remove the valve as well??

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

A small, round pipe cutter would allow you to cut the pipe below that coupling, they are only a couple of pounds. You would then need to clean off that paint and any solder, to be able to get your compression joint on. A large pair of pliers loosing gripping the pipe and rotated should get most of it off, followed by some abrasive. The flexi pipe you have, would then be about the right size then.

 

[mrStat]

Fair enough @lostinthelight I get what you mean now. It’s a faff, but nothing compared to the water damage from the thing pinging apart anyway - at that point I’d be saying pay a pro anyway.

 

[lostinthelight]

If you fit what terryplumb suggested you can the use a short flexi

 

[Roger465]

A small, round pipe cutter would allow you to cut the pipe below that coupling, they are only a couple of pounds. You would then need to clean off that paint and any solder, to be able to get your compression joint on. A large pair of pliers loosing gripping the pipe and rotated should get most of it off, followed by some abrasive. The flexi pipe you have, would then be about the right size then.

It's JUST too short

 

[Roger465]

If you fit what terryplumb suggested you can the use a short flexi
View attachment 168697

Thanks... but I haven't the courage now to cut it low down, in case I make a balls of it and don't leave enough to play with... plumber it is I think...

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Thanks... but I haven't the courage now to cut it low down, in case I make a balls of it and don't leave enough to play with... plumber it is I think...

Where is your sense of adventure?

It does look long enough from what I could see, providing you cut as close as possible under the joint.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Was wondering if you'd get away with using plastic pipe, cut the copper between the 2 bends, fit isovalve there, and continue up to cistern inlet with plastic, or would it be too much of a bend in the plastic? Personally would try it, but interested what the others think.

 

[blup]

Is there any leeway with the supply pipe where it comes up through the floorboards?

Sometimes you can pull it up and sideways, enough to screw the fittings together.

Blup

 

[Roger465]

Is there any leeway with the supply pipe where it comes up through the floorboards?

Sometimes you can pull it up and sideways, enough to screw the fittings together.

Blup

Concrete floor mate! And the pipe in the dogleg bit was a bit oval, so no go there either.

In the end, this is what the plumber did - none too elegant, but we looked at every other possibility, and had to admit defeat and jsut do it this way. And if there's any problem with it, it's HIS problem and not mine

Thanks everybody for your help

 

[ironsidebod]

Glad you got sorted but that *is* rough. Is he really a plumber?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Good grief, you could have done that yourself! I dont dare ask what he's charged to do that, but for a 'Plumber' I would have expected a lot better.

 

[lostinthelight]

Glad you got sorted but that *is* rough. Is he really a plumber?

Just shows where standards are going and he or she could be teaching the next generation