I must be going mad here. I know it will be obvious because of the neon being off. That is why I asked that question in post 1 as to whether the neon only require a neutral or whether it wouldn't work if the load wasn't switched with neutral as well ie. will it work with a single neutral wire fitted to the switch and not fitted to load too
Bathroom switch for Manrose in-line fan
- Thread starter caveman2
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I must be going mad here. I know it will be obvious because of the neon being off. That is why I asked that question in post 1 as to whether the neon only require a neutral or whether it wouldn't work if the load wasn't switched with neutral as well ie. will it work with a single neutral wire fitted to the switch and not fitted to load too
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It would be an option just using 2 of the 6 teminals just to switch the live. But as previously suggested it might be a bit clunky. I assume they are not meant to be used very often - only for maintenance?
BTW you understand what I'm getting at
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Ok.
Alright, I didn't understand what you meant. Still takes some working out.
If the live is switched, it doesn't matter about the neutral - so yes, but I don't see the problem.
You will have to have some 3-core & E for running the neutral to the switch, so
you may as well run the cable to the switch first and then the fan.
Caveman,
for the low/zero currents you are talking about, those switches will work as long as any other swicthes.
Sorry if we all got distracted from the Neon, but lack of ? and your comment "I'd rather not do it that way, so are there any alternatives please." pushed me away from that.
PLS IGNORE THE FOLLOWING, IT IS INCORRECT
[From memory, the neon in light switches does not need a neutral - as this type of switch only has a live and switched live. But I cannot remember now how or when the neon works - but it does work as an indicator for the status of the switch. So it should work for you]
SFK
for the low/zero currents you are talking about, those switches will work as long as any other swicthes.
Sorry if we all got distracted from the Neon, but lack of ? and your comment "I'd rather not do it that way, so are there any alternatives please." pushed me away from that.
PLS IGNORE THE FOLLOWING, IT IS INCORRECT
[From memory, the neon in light switches does not need a neutral - as this type of switch only has a live and switched live. But I cannot remember now how or when the neon works - but it does work as an indicator for the status of the switch. So it should work for you]
SFK
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EFL, Sorry ... I stand corrected and will edit my response
Caveman pls ignore my comment about Neon and follow EFL as his method will work.
SFK
Caveman pls ignore my comment about Neon and follow EFL as his method will work.
SFK
Looking at the link https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK2056.html where the two loose ends are connected is anyones guess. As a layman I assumed one would have needed a N and the other SL. I cannot find any info anywhere. Another one I found https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-Pole-Pull-Switch-Neon/dp/B009SRUFVA wasn't any more helpful. But perhaps as you say a N is not required.
Edit: Now read EFL post and see that N is required
There surely is a need for a neutral for a neon to work, whether the circuit it supply a fan or anything else? - unless one is very naughty and connects one side of the neon to earth (and hopes that, assuming the circuit is RCD-protected, the L-E leakage on the circuit is not already quite high
). ... or unless one is happy with the neon working 'back to front' (lit for 'off')!Kind Regards, John
Yes, that, and I wasn't sure if reference was being made to 'indicators' (not neon) which use the path through filament lamps to light switchesThere surely is a need for a neutral for a neon to work, whether the circuit it supply a fan or anything else? - unless one is very naughty and connects one side of the neon to earth (and hopes that, assuming the circuit is RCD-protected, the L-E leakage on the circuit is not already quite high
Yes, that too. As you will realise, I was thinking/talking about 'real' neons, but I agree that we might be talking about something else.
One of those non-neon ones almost certainly would not work if, as has been suggested, one switched the timer trigger input to the fan ("S/L") - so would probably not be advisable/suitable for the OP.
Kind Regards, John
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Another approach would be to have a lamp over the shower or bath, on the same switch as the extractor fan, in addition to the normal room lamp.
then people could turn it on before a steamy bath or shower, starting up the fan. It would be obvious that the light was on.
Nocturnal somnambulists would not need to turn on the shower lamp and fan.
then people could turn it on before a steamy bath or shower, starting up the fan. It would be obvious that the light was on.
Nocturnal somnambulists would not need to turn on the shower lamp and fan.
How about not having a timed fan?
Or using a timer switch?
Or using a timer switch?
That would not solve the problem - which doesn't actually exist.
The OP wants to be able to tell when the fan is switched off but still running on the timer.
This is easily achieved.
The OP wants to be able to tell when the fan is switched off but still running on the timer.
This is easily achieved.
Yes it would.
Yup.
A non-timer fan running because a timer switch has been operated is always running on a timer.
Seems a lot of these posts haven't been much use to the op, but ELFI and others are on track.
To re-cap, the fan won't be triggered by the light - but by it's own pull cord with a neon.
Although the pull cord will be a double pole neon one, only the lives will get switched - because the overun on the fan will not work if the neutral is switched.
As ELFI has indicated, one 3 core+e is used.
One way of wiring all of this could be;
Perm live and neutral in 2 core+e > 16 amp double pole pull cord with neon > 3 core+e > 3 pole fan switch in loft > in-line fan in loft.
At the pull cord, there will be live in, live out, and a neutral wire going to N load/out.
To provide triple pole switch to the fan, this will be a 3 pole switch in the loft next to the in-line fan.
To re-cap, the fan won't be triggered by the light - but by it's own pull cord with a neon.
Although the pull cord will be a double pole neon one, only the lives will get switched - because the overun on the fan will not work if the neutral is switched.
As ELFI has indicated, one 3 core+e is used.
One way of wiring all of this could be;
Perm live and neutral in 2 core+e > 16 amp double pole pull cord with neon > 3 core+e > 3 pole fan switch in loft > in-line fan in loft.
At the pull cord, there will be live in, live out, and a neutral wire going to N load/out.
To provide triple pole switch to the fan, this will be a 3 pole switch in the loft next to the in-line fan.
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