Brake caliper screws & wheel bearings
- Thread starter pretzelz
- Start date
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I do indeed. I have a nice shinney new disc, pads and bearing to replace. I just have to learn how to do it first.
What should I expect with this service manual I'm waiting for the delivery of? Is it likely to tell me for example, what socket size I will need for certain nuts? Or will it just say, remove the such and such nut. I suppose all manuals might be detailed differently.
What should I expect with this service manual I'm waiting for the delivery of? Is it likely to tell me for example, what socket size I will need for certain nuts? Or will it just say, remove the such and such nut. I suppose all manuals might be detailed differently.
I don't think it'll tell you the size of the nuts. It'll probably have some helpful pictures for guidance. I think you already know how to go about changing your pads and discs but the manual might be of help too.
There's a short funny video on youtube about how to change your bearings:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=OeSykJguOjY
I notice he doesn't use a "bearing race driver" but instead an air grinder to remove something. Since I don't have either, what is more beneficial to buy, and to use in this circumstance? And would this be a suitable air grinder?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:uk
Thanks.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=OeSykJguOjY
I notice he doesn't use a "bearing race driver" but instead an air grinder to remove something. Since I don't have either, what is more beneficial to buy, and to use in this circumstance? And would this be a suitable air grinder?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:uk
Thanks.
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Having spent most of my working life in the motor trade, I agree with tommydickfinger, that this is a simple job, for someone who knows what they are doing. I would advise you to find a friend or relative with some mechanical experience to help you. Your lack of tools and many questions shows you've not much mechanical experience, are you prepared if something goes wrong, snapped bolts etc, you also talk of changing the wheel bearing, (i'm not sure of the type of bearing fitted to your car) but some of these bearings need pressing in, and can be difficult to remove even for someone with experience.
In some ways i admire your spirit in wanting to tackle the job, but are car brakes and wheel bearings really the place to start, A recent case in the papers about a fatal accident where a friend had fitted a wheel bearing and torqued the nut up incorectly, which was believed to be the cause of the accident.
People on this forum are quick to jump on people regarding gas and electric work, you can't do that its against the law etc, it always amazes me that no laws exsist for car repairs, accidents can and do happen, custodial sentences have been gven for reairs which have caused serious or fatal accidents
I think you at least need some supervision with this job, my advice is "phone a friend" If you don't know anyone then i'm sure you would be better off getting some independent garage to do it for you.
In some ways i admire your spirit in wanting to tackle the job, but are car brakes and wheel bearings really the place to start, A recent case in the papers about a fatal accident where a friend had fitted a wheel bearing and torqued the nut up incorectly, which was believed to be the cause of the accident.
People on this forum are quick to jump on people regarding gas and electric work, you can't do that its against the law etc, it always amazes me that no laws exsist for car repairs, accidents can and do happen, custodial sentences have been gven for reairs which have caused serious or fatal accidents
I think you at least need some supervision with this job, my advice is "phone a friend" If you don't know anyone then i'm sure you would be better off getting some independent garage to do it for you.
hi pretz- theyre must be a carrier, that is held onto the leg, withsay 17mm or 19 mm bolts that youve removed with the caliper attached, if your just changing pads then you need only remove the lower bolt that attaches the capliper to the carrier- these will be much smaller- say 13mm, or torx 30 or 7mm alan key etc,just cock it over(up) lever piston back, replace pads. failing that, just call me when youve got youre head in the wheel arch,
kind regards
tommy
07971 978044
kind regards
tommy
07971 978044
re the Utube thing - also chock the wheels (to prevent rolling) and put axle stands (or as bare minimum, the wheel) under the car before putting your hand or leg there.
Once you have seen a jack collapse you will know why.
BTW working on loose gravel (like him) is ideal for losing small parts, not to mention getting grit into your new bearings.
Once you have seen a jack collapse you will know why.
BTW working on loose gravel (like him) is ideal for losing small parts, not to mention getting grit into your new bearings.
Thanks everyone for the latest advice. Have been away a few days so will read through the posts tomorrow and post any news. I haven't been out to the car in a few days obviously, also its been mightly coooold! I see a telephone number was posted for help, thanks Tommy pal. I'm quite a guru with computers if anyone gets any problems.
...my 14mm Impact wrench *should* arrive Wednesday hopefully so then I can get to work on removing that disc rotor. Oh, I've got a question about a torque wrench in so far as, will it help me establish the correct torque on nuts so as not to cause a fatality, and can I use it *after* I've tightend the nut with an impact wrench first? Or is one used soley in place of any wrench?
...as for my friends, unfortunately (and certainly now) they know alot less than me with regard to diy repairs etc. I'm taking things slow and careful, and may check the car in at a garage to verify what I've done possibly. But ultimately want to become self sufficient in a few areas, so that I can do these things myself on my future cars in life.
...my 14mm Impact wrench *should* arrive Wednesday hopefully so then I can get to work on removing that disc rotor. Oh, I've got a question about a torque wrench in so far as, will it help me establish the correct torque on nuts so as not to cause a fatality, and can I use it *after* I've tightend the nut with an impact wrench first? Or is one used soley in place of any wrench?
...as for my friends, unfortunately (and certainly now) they know alot less than me with regard to diy repairs etc. I'm taking things slow and careful, and may check the car in at a garage to verify what I've done possibly. But ultimately want to become self sufficient in a few areas, so that I can do these things myself on my future cars in life.
The torque wrench will enable you to "torque" nuts correctly if you have all the correct settings (workshop manual) Final tightening should not be done with an impact wrench, if you use the impact wrench the nuts could already be over tightened before you use the torque wrench, make sure that you are actually moving the nuts with the torque wrench untill it "clicks" (depends on type) when using a torque wrench use consistent force not sudden (snatching) movements, or you might get incorrect readings
I'm not sure if taking your car to a garage after you've worked on it would be a successful idea, some things could only be checked with further dismantling
Maybe you should see if there are any college courses / night classes which would help you with basics and possibly provide you with any technical back-up
I'm not sure if taking your car to a garage after you've worked on it would be a successful idea, some things could only be checked with further dismantling
Maybe you should see if there are any college courses / night classes which would help you with basics and possibly provide you with any technical back-up
I'm back. My tools arrived the other day (very late from ordering) and today I had some free time and the weather was nice, so I set to work. My aim, to replace the brake pads and disc.
Well, I thought all was going smoothly... until, I couldn't get the brake caliper back on the disc afterwards
Very disappointing! I thought, great, I've nearly got all the way...
But I'm stuck. I don't know what the solution could be. Basically I pushed the piston back as far as it would go, in reality it was only out a few milimetres anyway. But I used the G-clamp and was able to rotate it back a few turns. The car guide service book for my car just said put an upended hammer in there and push it back.
The pads fitted in smoothly, and seem to fit over the disc very well. The top part of the caliper was able to fit on top of the mounting bracket behind the wheel no problem, but the bottom part of the caliper was clashing by about 1 or 2 mm with the mounting bracket. Strange I thought, that piston surely couldn't go back in any further to give more room.
I took out the new brake pads, and attempted to g-clamp and tap the piston in even further. No luck. It's only sticking out about 1mm as it is, and may not go back in any further?
If any of you could assess the situation, I've taken a picture of:
a) the new pads in the caliper
http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=89307
b) the underneith of the caliper as I try to fit it onto the brake disc
http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=89314
c) a look at how far the piston is currently pressed in.
http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=89319
Two other questions which arise from today:
- If I pressed the brake pedal in, would I see the piston moving? With caliper detached from brake disc.
- Also, if I hold the brake disc as 12 and 6 o'clock positions, i can judder it slightly. Same happened with the old brake disc which people said could be the bearing. I may be confused, but I think it's actually this nut which is not tightening all the way in:
http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=89323
It's got to a point and won't go any further so no wonder there's a mm gap for the disc assembly to rock slightly. But is that to do with the wheel bearing?
Many thanks in advance for your insight!
- I need to figure out what setting on my digital camera will allow me to take photos up close, and not come out blurred (currently they keep the background in focus)
Well, I thought all was going smoothly... until, I couldn't get the brake caliper back on the disc afterwards
Very disappointing! I thought, great, I've nearly got all the way...But I'm stuck. I don't know what the solution could be. Basically I pushed the piston back as far as it would go, in reality it was only out a few milimetres anyway. But I used the G-clamp and was able to rotate it back a few turns. The car guide service book for my car just said put an upended hammer in there and push it back.
The pads fitted in smoothly, and seem to fit over the disc very well. The top part of the caliper was able to fit on top of the mounting bracket behind the wheel no problem, but the bottom part of the caliper was clashing by about 1 or 2 mm with the mounting bracket.
Strange I thought, that piston surely couldn't go back in any further to give more room. I took out the new brake pads, and attempted to g-clamp and tap the piston in even further. No luck. It's only sticking out about 1mm as it is, and may not go back in any further?
If any of you could assess the situation, I've taken a picture of:
a) the new pads in the caliper
http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=89307
b) the underneith of the caliper as I try to fit it onto the brake disc
http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=89314
c) a look at how far the piston is currently pressed in.
http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=89319
Two other questions which arise from today:
- If I pressed the brake pedal in, would I see the piston moving? With caliper detached from brake disc.
- Also, if I hold the brake disc as 12 and 6 o'clock positions, i can judder it slightly. Same happened with the old brake disc which people said could be the bearing. I may be confused, but I think it's actually this nut which is not tightening all the way in:
http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=89323
It's got to a point and won't go any further so no wonder there's a mm gap for the disc assembly to rock slightly. But is that to do with the wheel bearing?
Many thanks in advance for your insight!
- I need to figure out what setting on my digital camera will allow me to take photos up close, and not come out blurred (currently they keep the background in focus)
Your piston looks to be quite well in but it only takes a milli ball hair to stop the caliper going on. But it looks as if the slide is hitting the carrier, you should be able to mave that a little to let it clear.
And it does look as if the drive shaft needs to be pulled through a bit more so that you can tighten the nut.
I'm have trouble with a computer, can you hace a look at my post in software please?
And it does look as if the drive shaft needs to be pulled through a bit more so that you can tighten the nut.
I'm have trouble with a computer, can you hace a look at my post in software please?
yep
put the wheel back on it as it is, drop it down to the ground and tighten the hub nut more, i reckon you have at least another 5mm of tightening there before it sits right.
The other slightly cheating way of getting the pads to fit is to file them down slightly, make sure you do it flat and even though
The other slightly cheating way of getting the pads to fit is to file them down slightly, make sure you do it flat and even though
It looks from your photo of the hub that the hub nut may not be tightened down. If so, when you rock the disc you will be able to see a small, varying gap between the back of the nut and the hub assembly.
You should really be using a new nut. From the photo it looks like a staked nut. Once it has been tightened down to the correct torque, punch the rim of the nut slightly into the groove in the stub. Don't overdo this, or you make disassembly difficult next time.
(If however the wheel bearing is badly worn, you shouldn't be reassembling without replacing the bearing.)
As for the difficulty relocating the caliper, you need to look to see what it's fouling at the bottom; slacken off the top bolt if necessary. Your piston looks fully retracted from the photo, but if it's not you should be able to move it back.
Don't press the brake pedal with the caliper off its bracket; the piston could come out.
You should really be using a new nut. From the photo it looks like a staked nut. Once it has been tightened down to the correct torque, punch the rim of the nut slightly into the groove in the stub. Don't overdo this, or you make disassembly difficult next time.
(If however the wheel bearing is badly worn, you shouldn't be reassembling without replacing the bearing.)
As for the difficulty relocating the caliper, you need to look to see what it's fouling at the bottom; slacken off the top bolt if necessary. Your piston looks fully retracted from the photo, but if it's not you should be able to move it back.
Don't press the brake pedal with the caliper off its bracket; the piston could come out.
I haven't had to do this for a long time, but the piston may have a ridge of dirt and rust on it that prevents it going back in. Cure is to let it come out enough that you can pull off the rubber boot and polish it clean with nylon pan scourer or similar. It is safer to have the caliper on the disk with the old thin pad fitted so that you don't let the piston come out too far.
When pushing the pistons back in it is essential to have them true and in line with the pots. If they go crooked they will jam, and pushing them in will cause damage.
When pushing the pistons back in it is essential to have them true and in line with the pots. If they go crooked they will jam, and pushing them in will cause damage.
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