Broken clutch release arm

By all means, point me towards a decent MIG welder please, in the < £150 category, and I'll consider investing.

I agree with the lack of design but in its defense, its lasted 90k+ miles.

Its really down to the shaft having seized in bell housing that's put the stress on the end of the arm. I've been applying oil over the last few days to seep it along the shaft and get it free again.
 
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I think I'd consider getting a bar of steel that would fit within that fractured fork, and creating a cup for the pushrod with a drill and countersink bit - and then jubilee clip it into place prior to welding.
Clutch arm seizures aren't that uncommon, I've had that with Peugeot / Citroen boxes.....getting lube into that end isn't so bad, it's the unseen end of the arm that's a bit of an issue.
John :)
 
I can't comment on that particular welder, but it does seem exceptional value.....
Personally I prefer using gas with a MIG, but I realise that if you are outside there needs to be no breeze;
The more controls for the current the more versatile the machine will be;
I also like to use one hand on the nozzle shroud, so I prefer a full face, auto darkening helmet.
John :)
 
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Thanks John

For what, hopefully, will only be a few minutes work, it'll suffice the job, provided of course it can do the job.

I've decided to got the welding route rather then using the Marine Weld glue - welding is more reliable as has been pointed out to me.
 
I'm sure that plenty of practice can make up for any deficiencies the welding machine may have.....if you can hunt down some pieces of scrap of the same dimensions as the clutch arm it'll pay off big time.
I'll stand by the auto darken helmet though - a superb bit of kit, and completely affordable these days.
John :)
 
The arm looks to be of a cast material and as such I believe it not to be a task for one without some experience in welding, especially as it is not a straight forward downhand position.
I did my C & G in welding in 1968 and having used gasless mig would not give one workshop room.
litl
edit: have just read some of the reviews and must say I am a little sceptical.
5mm from a 100 amp machine!! I have 240 amp Oxford and would expect to be using it at or above its mid range for a decent weld in that thickness .
 
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I have to admit, the fracture that we can see does look a bit granular in appearance.....however I'd assume the part was a forging, similar to a suspension arm? I'd be happy to give it a go - preferably on the bench - and I'd be reaching for the oxy / acet anyway and braze the thing.
I didn't read the machine spec but there's no way 100A could weld 5mm in one pass - however, you get what you pay for. I'd be looking at around the 90A output for a stick welder to sort that component.
The oil cooled Oxford, eh? One of the best and smoothest welders ever (y)
John :)
 
Burnerman said:
The oil cooled Oxford, eh? One of the best and smoothest welders ever (y)
John :)
Click to expand...
Not quite John, I should have said it was an oxford migmaker but I do have a 140 amp oil cooled oxford which I picked up a auction to replace 180 amp one which I had for nearly 40 years and started to get a bit temperamental.....I must hunt for the receipt to check on the warranty :)
litl
 
Tried using my new MIG welder today. Started welding the clutch release arm but it got dark so will continue tomorrow.

No instructions with the welder, just a general safety guide.

Yes, I did disconnect the car battery.

There are max/min and 1/2 switches. I presume switched to max and 2, I have the most welding power ?

307rjth.jpg
 
Yep, that's about it.....do have a practice on scrap first! The beauty of a MIG is that you can stop the weld at any time and then continue, unlike the traditional stick welder.
Go through the technique of laying welds down in a line, starting with the lightest current and then increasing as you go.....too much current will simply blow the metal away.
John :)
 
I've got the arm repaired but the its stiff to rotate in the bell housing.

Warmed the engine and messed on 1/2 hour spraying WD on the arm shaft but still sticking.

It would be a gearbox removal job so time for change of car I think.

Have seen some decent Octavia TDIs on-line!
 
Shame about that, very few of them on roads now, yes it would have been a gear box removal job as the cause of stickyness could have been other than the shaft seized in its housing, it can be the pressure plate/thrust bearing problem that may make it seem as if the shaft is stuck, in particular if a fulcrum ring within the PP gets snapped, no amount of pushing on the leaver would release the clutch, pushing on it harder then ends up breaking the fork or the rod cup.

Did you join any Rover Forums as many enthusiast know where to get parts from, and many even sell as they collect or have spares tucked up in their garages, would have been worth a try.
 
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