Cable repair within wall

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As I said in post 3, solder it and cover with self amalgamating tape.
Once you own a soldering iron you will wonder how you ever managed without it. I’ve had one since I was 12 years old.
Perhaps you can offer the op some guidance on how best to to this solder joint, as I'm sure there are many ways of doing this incorrectly, or at least not as good as it could be.
 
Point made!
But is crimping the only method and the crimper the only tool? I was trying to establish the alternatives. As is often the case with almost everything. And that doesn’t mean a “bodge”.
Could you not just solder the joint? Overlap the two wires, wind 5amp fuse wire (or similar) around where they overlap, then tin the joint with solder, heatshrink to insulate then what ever method to enclose and protect it.
 
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Adhesive lined heatshrink is available.
So are screw terminals, but they are not acceptable for concealed / inaccessible connections.
 
Once he has a soldering iron that can be done.

Solder and then insulate with heat shrink sleeve.

Not as easy as it sounds, the heat shrink has to be put onto the wire before the wire is soldered and parked away from the joint until the joint has been soldered.

The heat shrink has to be parked far enough away from the actual joint so that heat from the soldering does not cause it to shrink before it has been moved to cover the joint.

This requires a significant amount of the cable sheath has to be removed to provide the necessary parking area,

A sleeve of heat sink has to be parked on the cable to replace the removed sheath before the soldered joints are made,
 
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Solder and then insulate with heat shrink sleeve.

Not as easy as it sounds, the heat shrink has to be put onto the wire before the wire is soldered and parked away from the joint until the joint has been soldered.

The heat shrink has to be parked far enough away from the actual joint so that heat from the soldering does not cause it to shrink before it has been moved to cover the joint.

This requires a significant amount of the cable sheath has to be removed to provide the necessary parking area,

A sleeve of heat sink has to be parked on the cable to replace the removed sheath before the soldered joints are made,


Don't heat schrink then. Use self amalgamating tape as I originally suggested.
.
 
Self amalgamating tape never sets, it can deform with pressure, so if there is pressure it can deform to the point where a live wire is exposed, it is good stuff, but it needs normal insulation tape on top to protect it if pressure causes it to deform.

This leaves a question, can it be removed without a tool to an extent where it exposes live parts? This is why insulation tape is no good, it can be removed without a tool or key, I have tried removing self amalgamating tape and without a knife it is hard, so it may be considered as OK, but I would say whole joint would need to be in a box with a screw in the lid so tool required before it would comply.

So the epoxy lined shrink sleeve clearly does comply, so would a box filled with epoxy resin, so why mess around with self amalgamating tape just do the job properly to start with.
 
Use self amalgamating tape as I originally suggested.
It is said that most self amalgamating tapes do not have any significant affect on copper.

Can the same be said about self amalgamating tape in contact with the metals in solder ?
 
If possible avoid an in-line soldered joint. Moisture can still ingress if the adhesive in the heat shrink tube does not fully fill the spaces between the insulation ( blue ).
 

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