Calling Oilman

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Sharpen up, Oilman, or I'll have to cut your wages ;)

The question was are there any potential snags with changing from a balanced flue to drawing air externally at low level and expelling up an existing chimney with s/s liner? (Full question in "Repositioning flue" overpage).
Pretty please
Paul
 
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There are potential snags with everything, getting up in the morning, walking down the path, going to the toilet, the list is endless. To change your fluing arrangement, I could do it, you could do it, but you will have to talk to building control, (you'll like that :D). It is likely to work, but as your flue terminal is below the ridge, it MAY cause some difficulty.
 
Oh bollards. You know very well I didn't involve building regs in the main job (which runs smooth as a priest's hand down a choirboy's trousers) so I'm certainly not going to ask some twentysomething with a clipboard and NVQ in Drains to come and approve this. The information from you, Kevplumb & al is far more reliable. It doesn't matter that I have no idea who you are. Instinct is powerful.

Presumably when you talk about difficulty, you are referring to the blowback caused by the chimney position. I have a hunch that would be reduced to nothing if the snout was on the same side as the chimney. The boiler in its original position effectively breathed from the opposite side, which presented it with a mirror-image pressure reduction.

What I need is clear discussion about the theory, not a git from the council.

Going down the path to the toilet now. Wish me luck.
Paul
 
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Ha ha ha ha ha !!........

Oh bollards. You know very well I didn't involve building regs

If you had, they might have pointed out that despite conforming to regulations, you would get a smell from the flue. When exactly, does the smell occur?

You could do an expensive proper job, and recoup the money by some household economies. Try using the toilet paper both sides to halve the amount you need. :D
 
if the air intake is in the same plane as the flue youve just answered your own question

Same side, Kev, not same height. Therein lies the query.

When exactly, does the smell occur?

When the boiler's on, silly. (Just a fume smell, no overtones of raw oil, peaches, guava fruit etc).

You could do an expensive proper job
All my jobs are proper jobs (see next question)

Try using the toilet paper both sides
Already do. It won't fold any further.
 
When the boiler's on, silly. (Just a fume smell, no overtones of raw oil, peaches, guava fruit etc).

Just watch who you're calling silly! :evil:
I'll make it simpler for you. Does it smell when it starts? Does it smell all the time it's burning? Does it smell just after it stops?

The first and last are un avoidable. If it smells after it has got hot and is still running, then your burner is not set correctly.

Quote:



Try using the toilet paper both sides



Already do. It won't fold any further.

And WHO said anything about folding it? You still have room for substantial savings then.
 
Well, it does whiff a bit all the time it's running. Wouldn't you consider that normal with the thing belching away a few feet from your nose? Are you saying a well-tuned boiler shouldn't smell at all once it's hot and motoring?

You still have room for substantial savings then.

No need. I'm stinking rich. (Well, stinking...)
 
There should be hardly any smell once the boiler's hot, if it's set up correctly. Who set it up?

No need. I'm stinking rich........


What's your address? I'll be round to set it up correctly for a suitably large fee :D
 
Who set it up?

Default settings, courtesy Boulter.

I'll be round to set it up correctly for a suitably large fee...

No point, Oilman. As you keep telling me, I must first invite the Fat Controller's henchmen from the local council - at a fee even larger than yours no doubt. Anyway, you live in an oil tank somewhere on Mars. Even with my riches your mileage would break the budget.
 
Default settings, courtesy Boulter.

So if you bought a new door you would have a sledge hammer to wack it shut and a crowbar to open it, while deciding whether to adze a bit off the frame or take some bricks out rather than have a guy in to fit the door properly?

Boulters would be within their rights to say you're on your own if you need any warranty work doing if it wasn't set up properly, and suitably recorded. Well done, good move. Which member of your family do you hope to inflict longterm health damage on? (Just asking). :rolleyes:
 
You take me far too seriously, Oilman. I intend to get the thing tuned properly before it gasses the family (haven't decided which ones to gas yet) but, as you know, have been thwarted by this merry-go-round of "professionals" refusing to look at it because it's a self-install job. Yes, I know... retrospective application to building control etc. We'll get round to it.

Doesn't matter if the guarantee is void. I'm so rich I could just buy another one.
 
Dear Rich Ba*****red,

(For pete's sake moderator, there's no need to be so namby-pamby, "bastard" (you'll probably see more **'s) is in the Oxford Standard Dictionary. Why on earth do you feel the need to be so censorius?)



Thats a lame excuse, all you have to do is to ring up to get your boiler serviced. Check before they visit they will give you an oftec CD11 (if they don't know what that is don't have them. Once you have the CD11, you can send the guarantee card with a copy of the CD11 to prove it was set up properly, and make sure you have inhibitor in the system. Get it serviced annually, and I'd be surprised if Boulter's weren't happy. The other bits about installation are your affair.



NOW PICK UP PIGGIN' PHONE!!! (Or BOGOF).



Failing that I'll get kevplumb to send posts continuously as he runs a 24/7 reply posting service. That'll stop you sleeping. :D
 

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