Candy grand washing machine problem

[ENJAY1]

I have a Candy grand washing machine model GO 282 that has developed a spin problem. The speed keeps fluctuating like it's trying to get up to speed then cuts out, tries again and cuts out. It keeps going until the wash is finished. No fault codes flash up.

I tried the self test mode, fills with water, spins a bit, drains but it stops and all lights flash.

My thinking is a fault with the speed sensing? Problem is trying to determine if the sensor or the circuit board.

With my multumeter set to 2k ohms I get a reading of 0.47 which sounds a bit low?

Just looking for guidance.

It could be it's reached the end of it's life but if it's an easy enough fix I'm happy to get stuck in.

Cheers

 

[Wayners]

Lights flashing is the fault codes. You have to look and see which area flashing and which area off or not flashing but on.
Then look online.
It's a good idea to video the flashing lights

 

[ENJAY1]

Here's a quick vid of the actual problem and what happens during the test mode. (And yes the bearing is a bit noisy but there's no play yet and I don't want to throw in a bearing if the other problem isn't sorted)

I tried counting the flashes but gave up at a 100 lol

 

[jj4091]

Have you checked to see if the motor has brushes and if it has are they worn or sticking in the holders?

 

[Wayners]

I can't find anything that mentions continuous flashing lights for candy.
Try...
First remove filter and shine light inside. No elastic bands or other can be seen. Spin impeller it should judder on magnets.

I have this theory that if a machine is over 5 years old swap pump as probably knackered.
My fault was at the spin cycle. Pump worked fine until it got to the spin and machine would stop.
Probably because it had to continually pump.
I layed machine on its side. Disconnected pipes and the two yellow wires and turned pump ¼ turn and it came off.

Tested resistance and it was high having followed YouTube video.

Bodged wires to pump and plugged in mains. Ran fine so I put back on. Blew air down the rubber pipe that goes to pressure sensor ( never blow in sensor) only one pipe to drum that's rubber and that seemed clear. Also check rubber pipe for cracks or worn holes.
Noticed the pump pipes were full of black sludge. Run cleaner though. Started using calgon to prevent sludge and switched to powder. Tabs just cause sludge.
I bought another pressure sensor and all worked fine for a month then the problem started again.
Bought a new pump for £30. Swapped the lot as pump never fitted the original housing which took 2 mins as only 4 screws. Had to extend wires a tad with crimp ons. Two yellow wires to motor and don't matter which way around you connect. Machine worked fine as that was 3 years ago. Had to replace door switch last year.

Take from that what you will.

 

[ENJAY1]

The machine runs through a full cycle of washing no bother, it's just the weird spin cycle. It wont get up to a steady speed like it used to.

I've checked the drain etc, if I take the pipe and hold it in the sink and watch, the water comes flowing out without any issues.

Cheers

 

[Wayners]

Sounds like motor. Check brushes.

 

[ENJAY1]

Brushes are huge, loads left on them. Also took out pump, all perfect. When it cuts out during spin it's not like the faulty brushes where the motor stops and starts or runs slow and makes sparky noises. It's like something that controls it is telling it to stop.

Only does the random thing when trying to do the really fast spin.

 

[Jurassicspark]

My thinking is a fault with the speed sensing? Problem is trying to determine if the sensor or the circuit board.

With my multumeter set to 2k ohms I get a reading of 0.47 which sounds a bit low?

What exactly did you test?

A normal basic tacho on a domestic appliance like yours will be AC output, it's just a permanent magnet rotating in a wound stator. The actual resistance probably isn't very important provided there is a circuit through it. You can try spinning the motor by hand and seeing if the tachometer generates an AC voltage. It should be around 1 to 2 volts.

Have you checked if the belt has enough tension? Is it a direct drive washing machine?

Do you load the washing machine unequally?

 

[ENJAY1]

What exactly did you test?

A normal basic tacho on a domestic appliance like yours will be AC output, it's just a permanent magnet rotating in a wound stator. The actual resistance probably isn't very important provided there is a circuit through it. You can try spinning the motor by hand and seeing if the tachometer generates an AC voltage. It should be around 1 to 2 volts.

Have you checked if the belt has enough tension? Is it a direct drive washing machine?

Do you load the washing machine unequally?

I tested continuity across the senor wires as per a youtube video from espares. He was a bit vague on what the reading should be but I've read various things like between 1k and 2k ohms. I know on a car if an abs sensor ohms are out the sensor needs replaced, figured it's a similar set up and with it being able to display fault codes etc I thought maybe it matters.

It's only when it tries to go full spin speed, lower spin speeds are fine.

Belt is spot on, no slippage.

The wife has put the odd duvet cover in without buttoning it up but it's doing it empty.