I don't think its to do with the design, more with the way it was fitted. It seems to have been excessively stuck against the wall instead of being screwed to it .Ive stuck them before but move cistern away from the wall slightly , squirt adhesive through the screw holes and then release.
Can't get cistern off, please help!
- Thread starter Abs4190
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Can you get a hand saw behind cistern?
If so use it ,and put oil on both sides of the blade.
If so use it ,and put oil on both sides of the blade.
I can't get a hand saw down from the top.. I'll see if I can get it from the sides and try the oil method you mention .. Will any oil do or machine oil?
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I suggested the wood saw earlier but forgot the oil.
Don`t want to worry you but did one where it was two strips of something like No Nails down the whole back of the cistern, took ruddy hours to get the cistern free.
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Thank .. I'll give it a shot tomorro ..
OK finally managed to get the cistern off the wall with a lot of elbow grease and my wife's carving knife.. So there was adhesive holding the cistern onto the pan as well! So a bit of advice from you experts. I need to replace all the inside with a 2 in dual flush (rod type) and the inlet valve with a half inch. I'm looking at replacing the plastic nuts and washers that were holding the cistern to the pan as well as the rubber coupling that sits between the cistern and pan.. The old one has seen better days.. And finally I'll screw the cistern onto the wall instead of using adhesive like my plumber used. In the cistern kit will I get the replacement nuts for cistern to pan? Will it have screws and washers for cistern to wall? My plumber added sealant to all holes, I've cut it all away. Do I need to add more sealant or will I be ok with the rubber washers on the fittings?
And the waste pipe at the back of the toilet onto the wall, can I just leave that and use again . Unfortunately once the toilet is connected up to the valves etc I can't see the back when I push the pan onto the waste pipe.
And the waste pipe at the back of the toilet onto the wall, can I just leave that and use again . Unfortunately once the toilet is connected up to the valves etc I can't see the back when I push the pan onto the waste pipe.
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Having gone so far I would replace the cistern to pan coupling with new however a quick google will show you that there are different shapes & sizes about. You shouldn`t need silicone but some stuff is so badly made now you have to use something, a lot of guys & gals use plumbers gold.
1. The two bolts holding cistern to pan won't come with a kit. Use Screwfix 291HT.
2. The rubber coupling which sits between cistern and pan is called a "doughnut". Take the old one to a plumber's merchants and get an identical one, or as close as possible.
3. The screws to hold the cistern to the wall - work out the length and get appropriate brass or stainless steel screws if you ever want to take them out again. Also get soft washers, to fit between screw head and inside of cistern wall. Use tap washers or something like Screwfix 599FY, or nylon washers. Don't do the screws up too tight or you may crack the cistern.
4. If you don't move the pan, the waste pipe should be OK.
2. The rubber coupling which sits between cistern and pan is called a "doughnut". Take the old one to a plumber's merchants and get an identical one, or as close as possible.
3. The screws to hold the cistern to the wall - work out the length and get appropriate brass or stainless steel screws if you ever want to take them out again. Also get soft washers, to fit between screw head and inside of cistern wall. Use tap washers or something like Screwfix 599FY, or nylon washers. Don't do the screws up too tight or you may crack the cistern.
4. If you don't move the pan, the waste pipe should be OK.
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Replace the pan connector ,do not try to re use it . You will also need to replace the seal between the supply ( probably a flexible tap connector hose), and float valve.
Thanks mate.. I'll probably do that as wel .. Does anyone know of any way I can replace the dual flush rod type with the newer plug in button type. The issue I've got as mentioned earlier is that the flush button hole is rectangular and all the newer push buttons are all round..if I get the newer one with the plug in connector button it won't fit inside the existing hole!
Thanks for the helpful replies again guys.. I've never done anything like this before so all comments appreciated.. OK so the waste pipe looks like the pic attached.(apologies in advance, tbf not as bad as I thought, definitely no smells, lol) .i think the toilet literally slotted into the hole in the wall.. The pan connector from toilet to wall.. Will that just slot in?
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Don't quite follow ? Do you mean instead of the rod operated flush valve ,you want to have a flush valve that is operated by a cable ?
Can't tell what exactly what that is in the wall ,it's possibly a ring seal fitting. However , you have a flexible pan connector with multi finned rubber seals at the end that goes into the pipe / fitting at the wall You need a new one .The new one will be ( or should be) a tight fit into the pipe in the wall ,use washing up liquid to lubricate the rubber multi finned seals before inserting the pan connector into the pipe . Do NOT put any on the other end that fits onto the WC pans outlet .
Can't tell what exactly what that is in the wall ,it's possibly a ring seal fitting. However , you have a flexible pan connector with multi finned rubber seals at the end that goes into the pipe / fitting at the wall You need a new one .The new one will be ( or should be) a tight fit into the pipe in the wall ,use washing up liquid to lubricate the rubber multi finned seals before inserting the pan connector into the pipe . Do NOT put any on the other end that fits onto the WC pans outlet .
Yes I was hoping to replace the existing flush system that has 2 rods from the button to something newer that has the cable attached to the push button..
The pipe on the wall , there is no room for movement really as it looks pretty well stuck firm.. The connector I guess will just slot inside the pipe in the wall and not around it?
The pipe on the wall , there is no room for movement really as it looks pretty well stuck firm.. The connector I guess will just slot inside the pipe in the wall and not around it?
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