Car battery powered lighting set up for single garage

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Hi All,

I've followed a couple of threads on this site re: the above but i'm afraid my limited electrical understanding means i get lost the first time someone mentions inverters or any kind of tech speak!

I have just acquired a standard sized rented garage - not powered and no option to run a generator. The previous occupier had rigged up a 'sneaky' fluorescent lighting system spurred from an external power source (a exterior general public area light). Obviously the council got wind of this and disconnected his set up, but left all the lighting in place inside the garage.

So, my question to you knowledgable folk - could i use the light set up already in there (3 x 4 foot fluorescent lamps) and power those from a car battery?

If so, but need additional items (inverter)? would someone be able to list a easy to follow shopping list and setup to use.

If not able to use the existing lighting set up, would someone be able to again list an easy to follow set up guide and shopping list?

Any help much appreciated.

regards

Franc
 
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high power draw i am afraid
3 60w mains[230v] will be 180 w nearing 1amp at 230v[230w= 1 amp ] so when you convert down to 12v the consumption will be roughly 25 times the amount allowing for transmission losses so you will need about 25amps at 12v to run the bulbs for just over 1 hr so a high ah battery will last around 2 to 3 hrs
the most cost effective would be 12v low energy bulbs or led and only boost up if 230v is required for say a tv but that would drain the juce very quickly :rolleyes:
 
Do you need all three lights or would one be sufficiant?
How long do you need this car battery to last? How do you plan to charge it?
 
The more light the better but i'll be happy with whatever is practical.
I can recharge the battery at home, so that isn't a problem.

I'm restoring an old classic car, so 2 -3 of hours of 'working' light at a go would be ok.

Would it not be practical to run a high ah battery and recharge often if that would give me reasonable amount of light?

Or should i go for the 'camping' 12v lights options - i've read these are more efficient from q 12v set up?

Thanks for help

Franc
 
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Would you be able to put a small genny outside the garage while you're working inside?

Even a small genny (500-1000 VA) would outperform battery in terms of lighting, small power tools, and the ability to use a travel kettle for a nice hot cuppa.

Depends how remote the garage is, if it's too close to neighbours a genny might annoy.

And have you considered an alarm system linked to a GSM autodialler?
 
Generator isn't an option i'm afraid - the council rules won't allow that and i'd rather not upset the adjacent properties and garages.
Its only lighting i need to resolve at the mo'. My power tools are all re-chargable and i can always take a flask for a cuppa!

Intrigued - what's a GSM autodialler and could it be powered from a lighting battery set up battery??
 
Intrigued - what's a GSM autodialler and could it be powered from a lighting battery set up battery??

GSM autodialler is an attachment to a security alarm system that uses the mobile phone network to call or text you when there's an intrusion. No fixed phone line needed.

Portable GSM alarm Okay it's £340 but how much is your car, tools etc worth?
 
All the 12v caravan florescent lights have an inverter. A 8W tube runs on around 60vac so of course 12v as it stands will not power a florescent lamp it needs some method to lift voltage.

However the standard 230vac florescent lamp is not very good at working with either higher or lower voltages than it's designed voltage and to use a separate inverter will very likely cause problems either with lights not striking or using far too much current. So I would not use a standard induction discharge florescent lamp. The HF florescent would work OK but at the price of HF ballasts you may as well get one which will work from 12vdc in first place.

Buses do use 40W florescent lamps and they are HF which means also less likely to cause a stroboscopic effect however as with most things the more made the cheaper so likely three 16W caravan lamps will cost less than a 40W bus lamp.

As already said batteries will have a limited life and a 60AH leisure battery with a single 40W lamp will last less than 18 hours (so with three lamps 6 hours) and it should not be left in discharged state. To charge over night it will need a step charger to prevent battery damage and charge in time and you are looking at £100+ for a step charger. A float charger will take at least 24 hours to fully recharge a completely discharged (flat) battery.

Car batteries will not last as not designed for deep cycling and 3 months life will be about the limit. Using alkaline batteries like Ni/iron or Ni/Cad will reduce weight and charge times and can be left flat. However they cost.

Gas lamps of course is one option and they also give out heat which may be a bonus? But likely unless you can get mains power caravan lights will be best option. But when recharging batteries do remember the charger will need to be regulated in some way. Using a charger designed to give a car battery an equalising charge will wreck the batteries plus waste power if used on regular basis.
 
PS don't be temped by add like this learn from my mistake. Yes it will give 6KW for short time and 3Kw for longer time but in real terms only good for about 1.5kw continuous what ever the add says. Also warnings although they will repair under guarantee it will cost £80 post to return so not really worth the money.

Smaller 150W inverters are very unlikely to stand inrush and also need avoiding and if you get a well made one not a cheap and nasty china one as link shows then you are looking at £500.

Caravan lights is way to go.
 
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Many thanks for all the advice.

So if i understand the various comments correctly - car battery, inverter and fluorescent tubes is NOT the way to go.[/b]

Re-chargable Alkaline batteries and camping lights is the best option.

I'm off to my local camping shop as we speak!


Franc
 
Lights like that might be good enough to read by, but surely you must know from working on cars in the past that you'll need strong and widespread light when it gets dark, as well as some kind of inspection light facility when you're underneath or inside it?
 
You're quite right, but a good ambient lighting set up would help a lot.
And for detailed work i have various re-chargable torches - not ideal but the best i'm gonna be able to get.
 

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