I said up to between 85 & 90, so not far out
CH or gas fire?
- Thread starter Harry Bloomfield
- Start date
I said up to between 85 & 90, so not far out
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As near as I have been able to determine a Valor Majestic 303.
I guess it depends how they calculate the efficiency. If they only assess it up to the point where the fire joins the flue, some heat will go up the flue - but even then that is not entirely wasted heat. In my case the flue passes up inside chimney, passing through the first floor. By the time the flue gases emerge at the top, most of the heat will have been given up to the fabric.
The ability of the boiler to condense will relate to the hot water temperature in the tank. A set temp of say 40C may work out well but it will still depend on the return temperature at the boiler being sufficiently low.
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I would expect the opposite - efficiency to increase on lower settings. On lower settings, the velocity of the flue gasses up the flue will be slower and they will therefore have more chance to give up their heat to the flue and the buildings fabric.
Using the fire, I have realised it has quite a range of output, from full with all three radiants running, to just the centre one lit on full, but the centre one can also be turned down to minimum output.
Whatever the technical reasons, I guarantee that the fire is less efficient on lower settings. Or rather when a burner is on low. The centre radiant when on high, but alone, will obviously not be subject to the reduction.
Your point about the flue temperature is valid, in so far as the “aeromotive force” increases, thus increasing the room air changes. But one should run the fire on high before running on minimum, do the temperature will be high anyway. If ran in low from cold , there is a danger that you do not have sufficient flue temperature to guarantee clearing the POC’s.
It is essential that when the flue gasses exit the flue that are at least a certain temperature. If too low there is a danger of flue reversal (the AMF must overcome the resistance) and there is a big danger of gases condensing .
In truth, the fire is tested on a rig, so all figures are based upon that. In practice, differing conditions will affect results.
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There are lots of alternatives such as
The catalyst relates to how the gas is burned. No flame is probably the best way to describe that.
The catalyst relates to how the gas is burned. No flame is probably the best way to describe that.
How do they work, without a flue?
You could buy long ago, fires which used no flue, in fact we had one for a time back in the day, as a replacement for one of those gas bottle units in the hall - deadly things, I wouldn't have one now.
Even the catalyst type have products of 'combustion'.
You still can. They incorporate an oxygen sensor. It's a simple idea and works
In fact many type of gas fires are fitted with them as the flu may be blocked.
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