Hence my question on 8.8, especially with the high torque to set them.
I have ordered replacement bolts … I’ll swap them.
I have ordered replacement bolts … I’ll swap them.
Changing Brake Discs
- Thread starter RickH
- Start date
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Have you got a piston retractor tool Rick? They turn in clockwise and the proper retractor makes the job so much easier.
John
John
Nope .... but a neighbour may have the tool, seen you can also do this by taking out the calliper frame bolts and levering the pistons against the disc with a piece of wood.Have you got a piston retractor tool Rick? They turn in clockwise and the proper retractor makes the job so much easier.
John
Guys have all the parts lined up ....
Just realised that the Calliper frame is held on by M12 bolts that have a female socket head .... can someone who knows these things advise what the socket is known as ... is a 12 toothed female socket.
Is this correctly referred to as a 'Triple square XZN' bit, as also seen term 'Multi-tooth socket' ?
Know its not Torx ..
I have found tightening torque is 90Nm so want to get one in 1/2" socket drive.
Just realised that the Calliper frame is held on by M12 bolts that have a female socket head .... can someone who knows these things advise what the socket is known as ... is a 12 toothed female socket.
Is this correctly referred to as a 'Triple square XZN' bit, as also seen term 'Multi-tooth socket' ?
Know its not Torx ..
I have found tightening torque is 90Nm so want to get one in 1/2" socket drive.
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For straight forward basic pistons, I use a G clamp, gently and after sucking some fluid out of the master, to prevent it over flowing, with a syringe.
You must turn the pistons clockwise while gently pressing them in.....don’t press them alone! You don’t need to open the bleed nipple unless you want to change the fluid at the same time.
Due to the access I’d really recommend a retractor tool (Laser maybe)?
Another tip... The dust boot can wind up when you do this and it can split. I give it a blast of silicone spray which keeps the seal mobile and allows the piston to rotate whilst the seal stays put.
Use white ceramic brake grease on the piston and the back of the pads during assembly.
John
Due to the access I’d really recommend a retractor tool (Laser maybe)?
Another tip... The dust boot can wind up when you do this and it can split. I give it a blast of silicone spray which keeps the seal mobile and allows the piston to rotate whilst the seal stays put.
Use white ceramic brake grease on the piston and the back of the pads during assembly.
John
Thnx have bought a small pot Ceramic grease as part of kit for the job.
I’ve mentioned this before, but anyway.....
These bolts are tight as hell and have locking compound on them when new.
Clean any crap out of the socket head and bash the spline socket fully home with a hammer. Keep the socket and any extension bar completely in line with the bolt as you heave on it.
Heating the bolt shaft will soften any locking compound and I always do this.....if you chew the bolt head up its a bloody nightmare shifting it!
John
These bolts are tight as hell and have locking compound on them when new.
Clean any crap out of the socket head and bash the spline socket fully home with a hammer. Keep the socket and any extension bar completely in line with the bolt as you heave on it.
Heating the bolt shaft will soften any locking compound and I always do this.....if you chew the bolt head up its a bloody nightmare shifting it!
John
Whenever I’ve changed rear pads with an EPB, I’ve found that the pistons do not need screwing back. On the last two I did, one on our Evoque and the other, our A3, I took the motor off of the calliper, wound it off manually and then used a large pair of grips to push the piston back although on the Evoque, I could literally push them back with my thumbs.
Just check to see whether the discs come out without loosening the calliper bracket first - you might be lucky. They did on our Golf but didn’t on our A3. I think I removed the lower shock mounting on the A3 too so that I could move the shock out of the way to get onto the calliper bolts squarely.I’ve mentioned this before, but anyway.....
These bolts are tight as hell and have locking compound on them when new.
Clean any crap out of the socket head and bash the spline socket fully home with a hammer. Keep the socket and any extension bar completely in line with the bolt as you heave on it.
Heating the bolt shaft will soften any locking compound and I always do this.....if you chew the bolt head up its a bloody nightmare shifting it!
John
Does that work with an electric handbrake? The video in #5 uses a scanner, which retracts the mech, and then you push the pistons straight back. If you can do it without a scanner it's a big plus!You must turn the pistons clockwise while gently pressing them in.....don’t press them alone! You don’t need to open the bleed nipple unless you want to change the fluid at the same time.
Due to the access I’d really recommend a retractor tool (Laser maybe)?
Another tip... The dust boot can wind up when you do this and it can split. I give it a blast of silicone spray which keeps the seal mobile and allows the piston to rotate whilst the seal stays put.
Use white ceramic brake grease on the piston and the back of the pads during assembly.
John
Is it clockwise both sides? The ones I've seen are CW one side, ACW the other, which is which depending on whether the cable attaches above or below the mechanism shaft.
Yep, I didn’t consider the EPB......I’ll keep quiet now!
John
John
If you hadn't already bought new bolts you could consider replacing them with ordinary M12s with standard 19mm head. Save you some trouble next time! Recommended torque for grade 8.8 M12 is 98Nm.
Bought a service pack from local Skoda spares ..... included the 4 bolts
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