changing fuses on European to UK travel adaptors

[ericmark]

This

and

type is good for the items which you regularly use in both locations.

This

also available with earth

better for items rarely used in both locations but these adaptors by Powerbreaker part no SCP3-B-13A at £2.15 each are not cheap and were you have no intention of using back where Schuko sockets are used may be better to change plug.

Under BS7671:2008 regulations the Schuko socket is not allowed in UK not sure on Ireland because it is reversible and when using the adaptors it is possible that neutral and line are reversed resulting in the switch not always isolating the supply fully. Items marked

will not likely to be a problem but class I items you may consider a plug change as safest method.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You're probably thinking of UK shaver plugs. They don't need funny pin-outs in the rest of Europe, cause they don't have the silly bathroom rules we do.

CEE 7/16 Europlug pins are 19 mm long. They consist of a 9 mm long conductive tip of 4 mm diameter with a rounded ending, followed by a 10 mm long flexible insulated shaft of not more than 3.8 mm diameter. The two pins are not exactly parallel and converge slightly; their centres are 17.5 mm apart at the tip and 18.6 mm apart at the base.

They can be inserted into any socket that accepts 4 mm round contacts spaced 19 mm apart.

BS 4573 / IEC 60884-1 shaver plugs have larger pins (5.08mm) which are closer together (15.88mm).

The bendy pins of the Europlug mean that it can be forced into a shaver socket, but then there's a risk that the tips, being larger than the shaft, will catch on something and you won't get it out.

Conversely, a shaver plug forced into a Europlug socket can leave the pin receptacles enlarged so that Europlugs are loose.

 

[BS3036]

Sorry BAS, you're perfectly right. I somehow got into my head that the originally discussed adapter was for shavers from europe, which it obviously isn't.

 

[matoki]

Thanks Ericmark for your explanation.
I will indeed cut and replace the Euro (schuko) earth plugs to British ones.
Regarding the non-earthed europlugs, if I look at your photo of the converter plug on the bottom left, I see a 2 pin thin europlug. Is that converter good for ALL non-earthed appliances that have this 2 pin thin europlug? My TV's are also with such plugs. But what's actually the difference then between that converter and a shaver adaptor? I already bought many pieces of that shaver adaptor that have a 1 Amp fuse and I'm asking because that (for instace the TV plug) is the same kind of plug one has for his shaver. So what's the difference, other than the design, (except for the fuse? but can the fuse simply be changed to a higher one on the shaver adaptor?) In other words, what I still don't understand is how is a higher current rating achieved in a plug? That is a question that has not been answered yet by the other readers that reacted to my query (though perhaps they haven't been online yet...) Thanks a million!

This

and

type is good for the items which you regularly use in both locations.

This

also available with earth

better for items rarely used in both locations but these adaptors by Powerbreaker part no SCP3-B-13A at £2.15 each are not cheap and were you have no intention of using back where Schuko sockets are used may be better to change plug.

Under BS7671:2008 regulations the Schuko socket is not allowed in UK not sure on Ireland because it is reversible and when using the adaptors it is possible that neutral and line are reversed resulting in the switch not always isolating the supply fully. Items marked

will not likely to be a problem but class I items you may consider a plug change as safest method.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

But what's actually the difference then between that converter and a shaver adaptor? I already bought many pieces of that shaver adaptor that have a 1 Amp fuse and I'm asking because that (for instace the TV plug) is the same kind of plug one has for his shaver.

They may look the same with a cursory glance, but shaver plugs and Europlugs are not the same.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1203591#1203591

 

[wingcoax]

As i said earlier, you can change fuses to higher rating and this can raise the level where a lesser fuse would blow, thus reducing safety levels. A fuse is to protect the cable not the appliance.

 

[ericmark]

The BS646 fuse is available as 1, 3, and 5 amp see here but not sure if the contacts on the shaver adaptor would stand 5 amp only way to find out is to try it and should it fail you have fire problem.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I will indeed cut and replace the Euro (schuko) earth plugs to British ones.
Regarding the non-earthed europlugs, if I look at your photo of the converter plug on the bottom left, I see a 2 pin thin europlug. Is that converter good for ALL non-earthed appliances that have this 2 pin thin europlug? My TV's are also with such plugs.

Why not replace the 2-pin Europlugs too?

It's not as if BS 1363 plugs cost a lot of money. Probably less than converters....

 

[matoki]

Thanks again ericmark for your answer. Sorry if I am bombarding you guys with all these questions. I see that you have a lot of knowlledge in a subject I am lacking altogether. As you all probably know this "fuse-system" and high current in private homes does not exist in continental europe, nor does it exist in the US (nor in Israel) where I lived before...
So if I understand you correctly there is also a difference in the internal contacts of such a 1 Amp shaver adaptor (other than the fuse) compared with the higer earthed current adaptors? I didn't check my bigger TV yet but I saw that my smaller TV has a power consumption of only 37w (but that should work with 1 Amp, not?). I see in a listing that the maximum load for a 3 Amp fuse is around 750w but what is the maximum load for a 1 Amp? If it might be dangerous to change the 1 Amp fuse to a 5 Amp, would it also be dangerous to change to a 3 Amp?

The BS646 fuse is available as 1, 3, and 5 amp see here but not sure if the contacts on the shaver adaptor would stand 5 amp only way to find out is to try it and should it fail you have fire problem.

 

[matoki]

Thanks ban-all-sheds for your help. I will try to return all the shaver plugs I bought and perhaps indeed just replace all plugs. If that doesn't work out, perhaps you know more about the questions I sent Ericmark? Thanks.

I will indeed cut and replace the Euro (schuko) earth plugs to British ones.
Regarding the non-earthed europlugs, if I look at your photo of the converter plug on the bottom left, I see a 2 pin thin europlug. Is that converter good for ALL non-earthed appliances that have this 2 pin thin europlug? My TV's are also with such plugs.

Why not replace the 2-pin Europlugs too?

It's not as if BS 1363 plugs cost a lot of money. Probably less than converters....

 

[ericmark]

It is unlikely that there will be a problem using 5A fuses in a shaver adaptor. But a shaver adaptor plus fuse will likely cost more than new 13A plug so seems an unnecessary risk.

The 13A plug was developed during world war 2 ready for the massive rebuilding which it was realised by the British must happen post war.

The aim was to reduce the amount of copper required when wiring, make it as safe a possible for children, and to include as many safety features as possible.

Because we fuse at the plug unlike the rest of Europe we can use within the regulation light 0.75mm cable. It is used in Europe but in most cases breaks the regulations on protecting cable. All sockets are shuttered and do not require any of those silly blanks used to stop babies hurting themselves playing with sockets although some European firms still try selling them. It reduces the size of consumer unit required. And because the plugs are non reversible it allows the use of single pole switching.

There were also other plugs on the market with fuses and twist action switches but in the main cost has resulted in these slowly disappearing and now the British 13A plug is the safest in common use.

However the same can't be said for the hosts of adaptors available to allow one to use other plugs in the British system. Sometimes due to the lack of safety in the system it is converting from like in the case of the German system where earthed plugs can be put in un-earthed sockets and the neutral and line reversed but also due in part to the attempt to allow multi types to be converted with same device. The latter can result in plugs being inserted incorrectly and disabling the safety features. Even some extension leads like these

can allow safety features to be disabled these

are safer as you can't open the line and neutral shutters by inserting plug wrong way around.

As a result a box of British plugs will not only be cheaper but also safer than using any converters.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

As you all probably know this "fuse-system" and high current in private homes does not exist in continental europe,

The current drawn by appliances in continental Europe is the same as here, as we have the same voltage.

nor does it exist in the US (nor in Israel) where I lived before...

No idea about Israel, but currents in the US, for small and medium appliances, are double what they are here and in the rest of Europe.

So if I understand you correctly there is also a difference in the internal contacts of such a 1 Amp shaver adaptor (other than the fuse) compared with the higer earthed current adaptors? I didn't check my bigger TV yet but I saw that my smaller TV has a power consumption of only 37w (but that should work with 1 Amp, not?). I see in a listing that the maximum load for a 3 Amp fuse is around 750w but what is the maximum load for a 1 Amp? If it might be dangerous to change the 1 Amp fuse to a 5 Amp, would it also be dangerous to change to a 3 Amp?

Regarding fuses, a shaver adapter would probably be quite safe in practice with a 3A fuse, but that's just an educated guess. The makers only promise that it's OK for 1A (230W), so putting in a bigger fuse would not be a guaranteed good idea. The other problem is that your appliances with 2-prong plugs do not have shaver plugs on them. They may look very similar but they are not the same. They are close enough so that you could probably force your plugs in, but this isn't a good idea, and they might get jammed in.

Thanks ban-all-sheds for your help. I will try to return all the shaver plugs I bought and perhaps indeed just replace all plugs. If that doesn't work out...

No reason why it shouldn't.

Note, BTW, that when you buy plugs they always come with 13A fuses in them, so you should buy some 3A & 5A ones for the smaller appliances.

The fuse is there to protect the cable, so compare yours to the various types on sale in one of the big DIY sheds ( ) to see what the sizes are, and use fuses no larger than the maximum rating for flex those sizes, details of which some kind soul will soon post here as I don't have that info with me right now and I can't remember the limits for the very small sizes...

 

[matoki]

Sorry for my late reply however I would like to thank ban-all-sheds, ericmark, wingcoax, BS3036, ElectricDunc, securespark, ColJack, and plugwash for all your helpful remarks..…cheers!

 

[ericmark]

For the 13A plug fuses are available in following sizes.
1A = 230W
2A = 460W
3A = 690W preferred size
5A = 1150W
7A = 1610W
10A = 2300W
13A = 2760W preferred size
Cable sizes
0.5mm² = 3A hence 3A being preferred size.
0.75mm² = 6A
1mm² = 10A
1.25mm² 13A
1.5mm² 16A if Europe followed the regulations all cables using the CEE 7/7 and CEE 7/4 (German "Schuko" 16A/250V earthed) should all use this cable. In practice we all know this is not the case. Regulation 433.2.2 does permit fusing other end of cable when it is less than 3m in length. But I think this was intended to refer to fixed wiring not flex. 553.1.2 is the regulation which bans reversible sockets.
Table 55.1 lists the British standards permitted.
Fused plugs and shuttered socket-outlets. 2-pole and earth. for a.c. BS 1363 (fuses to BS 1362)
Plugs, fused or non-fused, and socket-outlets. 2-pole and earth. 2. 5, 15. 30 amp BS 546 (fuses, if any, to BS 646)
Plugs, fused or non-fused, and socket-outlets, protected-type, 2-pole with earthing contact. 5, 15, 30 amp BS 196
Plugs and socket-outlets (industrial type) 16, 32. 63, 125 amp BS EN 60309-2
553.1.4 Every socket-outlet for household and similar use shall be of the shuttered type and, for an a.c. installation, shall preferably be of a type complying with BS 1363.
553.1.5 A plug and socket-outlet not complying with BS 1363, BS 546, BS 196 or BS EN 60309-2, may be used in single-phase a.c. or two-wire d.c. circuits operating at a nominal voltage not exceeding 250 volts for:
(i) the connection of an electric clock, provided that the plug and socket-outlet are designed specifically for that purpose, and that each plug incorporates a fuse of rating not exceeding 3 amperes complying with BS 646 or BS 1362 as appropriate
(ii) the connection of an electric shaver, provided that the socket-outlet is either incorporated in a shaver supply unit complying with BS EN 61558-2-5 or, in a room other than a bathroom, is a type complying with BS 4573
(iii) a circuit having special characteristics such that danger would otherwise arise or it is necessary to distinguish the function of the circuit.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

For the 13A plug fuses are available in following sizes.
1A = 230W
2A = 460W
3A = 690W preferred size
5A = 1150W
7A = 1610W
10A = 2300W
13A = 2760W preferred size

5A is also a preferred size, isn't it?