You'll get better efficiency if you turn the boiler to 35c or whatever your favourite temperature for a shower is.
Beware the legionella police......
You'll get better efficiency if you turn the boiler to 35c or whatever your favourite temperature for a shower is.
Beware the legionella police......
Legionella only breeds in stagnant water,
Why does the HSE recommend that the water is returned to the cylinder / calorifer no less than 50 degrees
HSE said:Hot water should be stored at least at 60°C and distributed so that it reaches a temperature of 50°C (55°C in healthcare premises) within one minute at the outlets.
It varies with time of day. 22lpm I've seen claimed by some manufacturers is at a 35 degree delta, so that's not a realistic figure in winter.
The mention of varying water flow/pressure is a worry
I'm considering some layout changes and at the same time addressing the poor hot water pressure from my vented hot water tank.
One option is to do away with my 30 year old oil boiler and existing vented hot water tank, and get a big combi like a HeatslaveII 25/32 that claims 22 litres flow on the hot water.
Assuming I have the incoming mains flow & pressure, do they actually work reasonably well if two people are having a shower?
I had a WB-28Cdi in my last house so I'm pretty happy with the other aspects of living with a combi - such as the lag time as you wait for the hot water to flow through the pipe.
An unvented cylinder would give you mains pressure at your taps/shower, would take up the same space your existing unvented cylinder takes up, and would be a simpler boiler.
the real costs of annual servicing an unvented cylin
What ever the G3 quailified person wishes to chargeWhich is?
comparision by itself is not critism.yet think it is worthy of criticism?
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