Complete CH install advise.

Plus it's internal space so not wasted heat.

Not so, insulate everything under a floorboard regardless of where it is.

And Dan, are you aware how much plastic pipe sags when it gets warm. It needs clipping about every 30", as it will drop 1.5" over 10ft.
 
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Not so, insulate everything under a floorboard regardless of where it is.

And Dan, are you aware how much plastic pipe sags when it gets warm. It needs clipping about every 30", as it will drop 1.5" over 10ft.

I know it's ideal to insulate everything but not always practical. My joists are already hacked to bits, so I'm not drilling or making the notches any deeper so I can insulate pipes.
 
Not so, insulate everything under a floorboard regardless of where it is.

And Dan, are you aware how much plastic pipe sags when it gets warm. It needs clipping about every 30", as it will drop 1.5" over 10ft.

Yeah, I plan on running it through a joist then under the next secured with a clip to minimise that issue. Each joist should be 16" approx so shouldn't be a problem in the slightest.

Even if the piping runs parallel along the joists I'll be securing again with clips. I also know I need to give a little for expansion.

;)
 
When sizing your radiators have a read about Delta temperatures and efficiency of a condensing boiler. .
Another option being to increase CO2% along with MRT in order to reduce the size of those mahoosive radiators you have.:eek::)
 
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Another option being to increase CO2% along with MRT in order to reduce the size of those mahoosive radiators you have.:eek::)

Largest going in is a 22 600x1800 hardly mahoosive, i dont see the point of going smaller other than for looks and initial cost. You can always turn them down, but not up.
 
Yeah, I plan on running it through a joist then under the next secured with a clip to minimise that issue. Each joist should be 16" approx so shouldn't be a problem in the slightest.

Even if the piping runs parallel along the joists I'll be securing again with clips. I also know I need to give a little for expansion.

;)

Most of mine are supported by the joist notches so like yours every 16" or so. One place where it was a wide span i put the 15mm pipe through some 20mm conduit to support it, otherwise i would have needed a noggin or something putting in, and i have loads of 20mm conduit.
 
Largest going in is a 22 600x1800 hardly mahoosive, i dont see the point of going smaller other than for looks and initial cost. You can always turn them down, but not up.
I would imagine my comments regarding CO2% and MRT went straight over your head...:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
I would imagine my comments regarding CO2% and MRT went straight over your head...:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

And I bet if I started spouting Aviation electronics abbreviations to you they would go straight over your head as well.
At a guess MRT I would guess mean radiator temperature, but no I honestly don't know so clever you.
 
Another option being to increase CO2%

A genuine question, why refer to "increasing the CO2%" without saying which method you are suggesting.

The percentage of CO2 in the exhaust gas can be increased by

EITHER

increasing the gas flow rate and leaving air flow rate un-changed

OR

reducing the air flow rate and leaving the gas flow rate unchanged
 
Seems that Bernard is giving gas advice here.

But he should be aware that it is prohibited by site rules.

Not something a normal DIYer can do anyway unless he has a flue gas analyser!
 
Bernard, I'm not sure whether to take your questions seriously, because it was blatantly obvious to me that Steel was just being sarcastic
 
bernard just had to show what he knew (y) come to think about it I'm a bit "cack handed":)
 

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