Connect 3 Core and Earth Cable to extractor with LNT

[JohnW2]

I suppose one simple, simple solution would be to print numbers on the brown cores - like they like do on the blacks on SY flex, or like they like to do on the whites of 7 core SWA, and all that.

Indeed.

However, did I dream it, or was it once the case (maybe still?) that the two browns of brown+brown T+E were actually 'different' in some way, which allowed them to be 'identified'? Having never even handled 'twin brown', I can say absolutely nothing 'from personal experience'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[sparkwright]

Indeed.

However, did I dream it, or was it once the case (maybe still?) that the two browns of brown+brown T+E were actually 'different' in some way, which allowed them to be 'identified'? Having never even handled 'twin brown', I can say absolutely nothing 'from personal experience'.

Kind Regards, John

I have not known of such a thing - the only way I can think of is by going by the writing stamped on the side of the cable sheath, which is clutching at straws.

Still clutching at straws, one could hope one brown is darker than the other brown.

Hmmmmmm.

I suppose GENERALLY it makes little different which brown is which on a conventional three plate one way switch.

And GENERALLY it doesn't really matter if used as strappers on a 2 way switch arrangement- except leading to the possibility that one switch may appear in the 'on' position, when the light is off, for people who worry about such things. Nothing wrong with that.

 

[JohnW2]

I have not known of such a thing - the only way I can think of is by going by the writing stamped on the side of the cable sheath, which is clutching at straws. .... Still clutching at straws, one could hope one brown is darker than the other brown.

As I said, I might have dreamed about this. However, I have a vague recollection of one of the "browns" actually being white, with a surface layer of brown (soone could see the white when one cut it - but, as i said, maybe a dream. The other method which would work would be to have a line (e.g. black or white) down the side of one of the browns.

Hmmmmmm. ... I suppose GENERALLY it makes little different which brown is which on a conventional three plate one way switch. ... And GENERALLY it doesn't really matter if used as strappers on a 2 way switch arrangement- except leading to the possibility that one switch may appear in the 'on' position, when the light is off, for people who worry about such things. Nothing wrong with that.

As I said, provided all the cores are going to switches, there is no safety issue at all - If one connects them incorrectly, the worst that can happen is that the switch will not work 'as intended (or maybe not at all). If one of the cores were a neutral then, of course, there would be a problem, but hopefully that would be an unsleeved blue (or black if it were 'old colours').

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

I used to use twin red.

There were two ways one of the cores was identified:

1. A ridge moulded into the insulation.

2. The insulation on one was coloured red all the way through,but the other only on the outside, so when you cut through the conductor and looked end on, the insulation was red on the outside and white the rest of the way.

 

[JohnW2]

I used to use twin red. ... 2. The insulation on one was coloured red all the way through,but the other only on the outside, so when you cut through the conductor and looked end on, the insulation was red on the outside and white the rest of the way.

Ah, so it wasn't a dream - just my 'old age' showing Do I take it that none of the manufacturers have perpetuated that practice with twin browns?

Kin Regards, John

 

[securespark]

Believe it or not, I have never used twin brown!
Loads of harmonised cable, but not twin brown.

But I would hazard a guess they do the same thing. Saves belling it out.

 

[Risteard]

Bit inconvenient. Wonder if much finds its way as a grey import across the border.

No, not least because it doesn't have a full-sized insulated protective conductor, and the cable is unlikely to be to Dca, -s2, d2, a2 or higher.

 

[Risteard]

I suppose one simple, simple solution would be to print numbers on the brown cores - like they like do on the blacks on SY flex, or like they like to do on the whites of 7 core SWA, and all that.

Some brands do. Most don't, but then there's no need to be able to distinguish between two brown cores despite what some here seem to believe (none of whom have actually used twin brown).

 

[boringoldcodger]

Ah, so it wasn't a dream - just my 'old age' showing Do I take it that none of the manufacturers have perpetuated that practice with twin browns?

Looking at the only twin brown I've got (bought from TLC) both browns are the same (to this DIYers eyes) and are white cored with the brown on the outside only.
Edit: Supplier corrected.

 

[JohnW2]

.... there's no need to be able to distinguish between two brown cores despite what some here seem to believe (none of whom have actually used twin brown).

I'm certainly guilty of never having used 'twin brown', but I hope you're not suggesting that I have said that I believe that there is (usually) 'a need to be able to distinguish between two brown cores' ...

... another 'another matter' is whether, in some situations, such 'identification' is actually necessary and/or serves any useful purpose - as, for example, with cables going to light switches. Particularly in the case of 2-way switches, functional identification of conductors would be useful - but, of course, the requirements of the regs do not achieve that....

Having said that, I say "usually" above because there are some situation where one does have a need to identify individual conductors going to light switches ...

... I inherited a situation in which one 3-gang SP light switch controls three different lights, fed by two T+E cables. One cable carries the permanent live and the switched L for one light. That permanent live is linked to the other two switches and the second T+E carries the switched L to the other two lights. With that situation, it's obviously essential to know 'which conductor is which' in both of the cables in order to get it working 'as intended'.