Hopefully not, as that person appears to be removing the fuse with the isolator switched ON.Westie (& co) at work
Hopefully not, as that person appears to be removing the fuse with the isolator switched ON.Westie (& co) at work
I realise that you are an innocent player in all this. The problem, certainly 'morally' (i.e. in terms of your conscience), and just possibly legally (I have no idea) seems to have arisen because you now know what he intends to do - a consequence of your inquisitiveness, I suppose!Interesting points John. All I've done is call a guy who is registered with a trade body (found him on their website) and asked him to come out and quote for the replacement. It's only through sites like these (and my own inquisitive nature) that lead me to ask how he intended to deal with the main fuse/DNA situation. Surely the onus is on the registered professional to take the correct course of action. If not, then why have these trade bodies.
I would doubt that many people would argue with any of that.AS most will know on here the DNO CUTOUT will take no prisoners if it faults, they can be deadly as one poor jointer found out last year. PLEASE make sure anyone working on or near it is fully experienced with what they are and what they CAN do if they go wrong, 99.9 percent of the time its fine, but if in ANY doubt call in the DNO.
Indeed - and, as others have said, the latter is probably preferable, since it means that you would never have to go through all this again in the future.It really is a tough one isn't it. Am I right in thinking the correct/legit option would be one of the following:
1. To get the DNO out beforehand to pull the main cutout and then afterward to re-instate it. ..... Sounds like a lot of time spent waiting around.
2. See if I can get my supplier to fit a DP isolator prior to any work being carried out, so all parties are happy.
Maybe, but I would certainly question his personal priorities. Is a fine (even if there is one) really worse than death?It’s giving me a headache so I do fully understand why the guy wanted to work live. If he pulls the cutout fuse, he risks a fine/penalty from his registered scheme.
I would assume that their official line has got to be that is has to be done 'properly' - it would be totally inappropriate for them to give official blessing to 'unofficial practices'!NAPIT/NICEIC etc can't expect their guys to go down the DNO route every time - they'd never get any work done! ... Would love to know which unofficial practice they expect their members to take.
To get the DNO out beforehand to pull the main cutout and then afterward to re-instate it.
Westie (& co) at work
is that flame retardent clothing he is wearing ?
AS most will know on here the DNO CUTOUT will take no prisoners if it faults, they can be deadly as one poor jointer found out last year. PLEASE make sure anyone working on or near it is fully experienced with what they are and what they CAN do if they go wrong, 99.9 percent of the time its fine, but if in ANY doubt call in the DNO.
From what I can make out, they vary in terms of what they are, and are not, prepared to have installed on their backboards, whether in an outdoor meter box or elsewhere. However, wouldn't it be more coinvenient for you if an isolator were installed indoors, close to the CU, anyway?Out of interest, is it OK to have the isolator fitted next to the meter if it's outside? I ask as my meter is in a box on the outside wall. I'm not sure I like the idea of a master switch for the entire house's electrics mounted in a box that anyone with a meter box key/long nosed pliers can access!
Yes, it's just a big switch. When installed internally, they are, indeed, often/usually positioned as you indicate. I don't know, but there might be more reticence to put one in an external meter box, where space could be more limited. Having said that, I would personally prefer not to have an isolator in an 'easily accessed' external meter box, per yourearlier comments!From what I've seen, the DP isolator is just a big switch. Again the ones I've seen (in the flesh and in pictures) have been attached directly beside the meter on the backboard. I've only seen ones in internal positions though.
That could be a complication, which you would need to discuss with them and your electrician. Given that complication, you may be better off having it in the meter box (if they'll do that), despite the 'downsides' of that approach.Of course in my house, the meter and board is outside with the Fuse box inside (no visible cables as they go directly into the back of it) so if I had the supplier out to fit an isolator I don't think they'd be removing the consumer unit would they?
There are, but then one comes up against the inevitable conflict between preventing unauthorised operation and allowing easy/rapid legitimate operation in 'emergency' situations!There are isolators which can be protected from un-authorised operation.
True, or even insulated cutters. However, an 'unprotected' isolator would be a much more likely/tempting target for, say, 'mischievous youngsters'!But if someone is intent on turning off power to a house and has access to the meter box then they will do it by pulling the fuse if there is no other means to isolate.
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