Consumer Unit Replacement

[Gazzer23]

Gazer where are you? Perhaps someone here can help?

Hi flyingsparks

I live in Canada Water (next to Canary Wharf) in East London SE8

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Gazer where are you? Perhaps someone here can help?

Ah - the perils of not diligently reading all the previous posts when joining late in a multi-page topic...

Where do you live? I’ll come and fix it for you. I enjoy a challenge and this certainly fits the bill.

 

[Gazzer23]

I already had a very kind offer of help from RF Lighting who lives up in Leeds I believe but but before getting someone down here to help I wanted to make sure everything was doable.
Because of the strange conduit size etc I didn't want someone to come and then we couldn't get all the bits necessary.
But I am not an Electrician and you guys have got all the experience and would know what to do but I would like an understanding as I do find all this very interesting.
As far as the CU goes I believe I have worked out the best way to go thanks to everyone's contribution on here and it won't be hard to do a better job than the one that was done for me for sure

I have ordered an "Wylex 100A DP Mains Switch & Enclosure Supply Isolator" so that I can work on the CU safely and just now I ordered a new CU enclosure unpopulated (same one wasn't much) due to amount of knockouts he removed, also various glands to protect the tails and other cables not coming in via the conduit.

I got various problem with this can of worms (as someone put it)
1) CU installation needs to be redone to be safe and compliant.
2) rewire of existing ring mains either running new T&E cables or running an insulated earth cable down all the conduit along with the existing singles, also adding a few new sockets to it.
conduit can be replaced if necessary.
3) remove all the various circuits going to the kitchen and install a proper ring mains as it is currently a real mess.
4) rewire lighting circuit with T&E using exisiting conduits if possible.
5) add fan to bathroom (my original initial goal)

If you seen the plans you will see its only a small flat but as you all know the hardest bit (time consuming) is moving stuff around to get access to floorboards etc

I must say everyone on here has been truly fantastic and I am very grateful to all the advice I have received.

 

[Gazzer23]

Ah - the perils of not diligently reading all the previous posts when joining late in a multi-page topic...

​

Yes its getting quite a long post now
I haven't forgotten RF Lighting very generous offer and I think I am at a stage now where I can speak to him and discuss it.

 

[flyingsparks]

Ah - the perils of not diligently reading all the previous posts when joining late in a multi-page topic...

​

It was late and I didnt want to read through 8 pages there and then!!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It was late and I didnt want to read through 8 pages there and then!!

Been there, done that, not always got away with it.

Plan B is to start diligently catching up, and replying to posts as you go, and then finding that others have already made the same replies...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I have ordered an "Wylex 100A DP Mains Switch & Enclosure Supply Isolator" so that I can work on the CU safely

How will you safely install that?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

click here for more details



Kind Regards, John

 

[Gazzer23]

How will you safely install that?

A very good question.

Well I have several options:-

1) Safest option for me is to get an Electrician to do it, but it would most probably have to be one of the councils approved ones to be able to get the key to the fusebox, so my flats fuse can be removed.
I will get some quotes tomorrow and see what it will cost but as it involves going to the council to get the key will clock up a lot of extra time and also delay when it can be done, but it is worth checking out.

2) doing it myself, and I know everyone is going to scream at this but before you do consider how I would do it.

First thing is close the main switch on the CU so no current is being drawn.
Since the tails are double insulated and individual (i.e. one for live and one for neutral) then with my insulated screwdriver (I bought a proper set a while back) I would loosen the screw on the live terminal first and pull the cable out and then repeat for the neutral terminal. I would never go near the bare wire which I know to be live. These I would then screw into the new isolator switch output terminals.
Then the new tails which are already screwed into the new isolator (which is locked in the off position) input terminals would be put back in the reverse order.
So holding the double insulated part of the cable I would put it in the terminal and use my insulated screwdriver to tighten it back up. then repeat for the live tail.
I would make sure I was wearing my trainers with plastic/rubber soles and not to touch any wall or anything with the rest of my body.

At no time at all is any bare wire touched by me, not ideal I know but doable.

3) this option I just thought about while considering answering your question which is quite promising and very safe.
I got someone I know who works for the council who is a bit dodgy so to speak and he might be able to get the key for me so I can remove the fuse to connect it.
Obviously I would check the tails with a meter first after proving it works first and still not touch any bare wires as before. I know to keep the fuse in my pocket to prevent anyone else from putting it back in and I would most likely lock the fusebox with the fuse in my pocket as an extra precaution.


I know everyone is going to tell me to do option one for sure but its the thought of paying a few hundred pound for something you could do your self in 10 to 15 minutes but then again at least I would be safe.

 

[securespark]

I'm not quite sure what you are describing, but it sounds like you are planning to work live, which is an absolute no-no.

 

[securespark]

I've been back through the pages but must have missed it. As the "electrician" has fitted new tails, I guess he isolated? Or did he work live?

 

[securespark]

The management company of your building might have access to the fuse cupboard.

Failing that, the flats I have seen (albeit 1960's) have all the main fuses in a cupboard on the ground floor and what looks like a cut-out (fuseholder) in each flat, but inside, instead of a fuse is a solid link.
Nevertheless, one should be able to isolate the supply in your flat from this point.

If this is the case, your metering company should be able to fit an isolator adjacent so the job can be carried out safely.

Some do the job for free, others charge, but it is usually not extortionate.

 

[Gazzer23]

I've been back through the pages but must have missed it. As the "electrician" has fitted new tails, I guess he isolated? Or did he work live?

He worked live and nearly set light to my flight with his dodgy extension cable which had a short in it.

 

[Gazzer23]

I've been back through the pages but must have missed it. As the "electrician" has fitted new tails, I guess he isolated? Or did he work live?

I just been through my emails I sent previously trying to get the key for the fusebox and I now remember the chaos and disorganisation of the council and my failure to be able to obtain it before.
They said they had a list of approved contractors and only they can collect the key, surely this can't be right as they can't force a homeowner to use their approved list.
I do see their reasoning to it especially after my so called qualified electrician.

I will give British Gas tomorrow since they are my supplier and maybe they can come out and do it for me.

Don't worry I am not planning to work live (not now anyway) and can always hold back on any work until access has been provided.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

They said they had a list of approved contractors and only they can collect the key, surely this can't be right as they can't force a homeowner to use their approved list.

It's their property, so yes, they can.