Converting to combi pipework

Advice on pipework. Difficult to give any advice without knowing the layout of the house.

Lots of questions. for example

are your toilet cisterns supplied from the cold water tank in the loft ? If they are then they will be low pressure valves. Removing the cold water tank will mean the toilet(s) will have to be re-plumbed to the incoming mains supply and new high pressure valves fitted.
 
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Advice on pipework. Difficult to give any advice without knowing the layout of the house.

Lots of questions. for example

are your toilet cisterns supplied from the cold water tank in the loft ? If they are then they will be low pressure valves. Removing the cold water tank will mean the toilet(s) will have to be re-plumbed to the incoming mains supply and new high pressure valves fitted.
Just ignore him, he is talking twaddle again, you simply swap over a small orifice in the existing valve cost pennies and takes minutes, no change to any pipe work
 
Just ignore him, he is talking twaddle again, you simply swap over a small orifice in the existing valve cost pennies and takes minutes, no change to any pipe work

So if the water tank is removed and the tank had supplied the toilet cisterns, where do you suppose the water might magically appear from to fill them once the tank is removed - without any changes to the pipework?
 
So if the water tank is removed and the tank had supplied the toilet cisterns, where do you suppose the water might magically appear from to fill them once the tank is removed - without any changes to the pipework?
He has already been told how to back link the feed to the CWS and the old CWS outlet, nothing magical about it
 
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Just ignore him, he is talking twaddle again, you simply swap over a small orifice in the existing valve cost pennies and takes minutes, no change to any pipe work

Cheers Ian can you shed some light on the points I raised in a few posts earlier before it all went off on a tangent

Yes, you can take your hot and cold from the kitchen. You'll need to join the rising main to the cold feed to any low pressure pipework you have.
Ideally you should remove all 22mm hot and replace with 15, if at all practical to do so. It'll reduce the waiting time for water to get hot at the taps, and reduce gas consumption too

Rising main being the feed to the water tank, join the top pipe to the bottom feed pipe of the water tank?

Even though I'll be capping it off and tapping the hot from the kitchen? So are you saying convert it to 15mm then cap it off? Any ideas how much of the hot will be in 22mm?
 
no change to any pipe work
feed to the CWS and the old CWS outlet
would that "no change" link be in the loft ( minimal change ) with water going ( unecessarily ) up to the loft and back down again or will the link be elsewhere.

Face it Ian, some installers provide tempting ( low cost ) quotes to get the business and then add costs for the "unforseen" work that crops up during the installation.

( That was NOT from google but from a heating engineer )
 
Rising main being the feed to the water tank, join the top pipe to the bottom feed pipe of the water tank?
Yes these have have to be linked somewhere, not always the loft, basically you connect cold water main to the existing storage pipe work and cap off the storage feed side, do away with as much unused pipework as possible, dont leave any dead legs, every house is different so I cant tell you where is best to do it.This is to change your COLD water supplies that are currently from storage (you might not have any but very common for bathrooms and toilets to be fed from storage).
With the Hot, the hot outlet from the new combi boiler tees into the existing HW pipework and then same trace it to the existing last branch and cap the feed coming from the loft, again every house is different so you will have to follow your own setup.
 
would that "no change" link be in the loft ( minimal change ) with water going ( unecessarily ) up to the loft and back down again or will the link be elsewhere.

Face it Ian, some installers provide tempting ( low cost ) quotes to get the business and then add costs for the "unforseen" work that crops up during the installation.

( That was NOT from google but from a heating engineer )
Basically yes you connect the rising main to the outlet from the CWS , doesnt have to be in the loft , it is done where is best, every house is different
 
No read the actual post he said

It doesn't really matter what Bernard said,
ianmcd said:
Just ignore him, he is talking twaddle again, you simply swap over a small orifice in the existing valve cost pennies and takes minutes, no change to any pipe work.

Note the last bit after the final comma 'no change to any pipe work', which was obviously wrong to suggest that, especially whilst insulting Bernard's suggestion in the same sentence. Bernard was correct, the toilets would need to be replumbed to connect to the CW feed somewhere in the house.
 
Yes these have have to be linked somewhere, not always the loft, basically you connect cold water main to the existing storage pipe work and cap off the storage feed side, do away with as much unused pipework as possible, dont leave any dead legs, every house is different so I cant tell you where is best to do it.This is to change your COLD water supplies that are currently from storage (you might not have any but very common for bathrooms and toilets to be fed from storage).
With the Hot, the hot outlet from the new combi boiler tees into the existing HW pipework and then same trace it to the existing last branch and cap the feed coming from the loft, again every house is different so you will have to follow your own setup.


Great Ian, many thanks for clarifying, I'll PM some pics over shortly if it helps, re the f+e tank can i double check when i remove that i do not need to make any connections, i just cap that side off?
 
you simply swap over a small orifice in the existing valve cost pennies and takes minutes,

True for most cisterns but not all. Often that simple "conversion" to from low to high pressure results in noisy re-filling of the cisterm.

Is it that simple to convert thermostatic mixer taps ( basins baths showers etc eetc ) from low to high pressure ? Or could it be necessary to fit new mixers ?
 
Just ignore him, he is talking twaddle again, you simply swap over a small orifice in the existing valve cost pennies and takes minutes, no change to any pipe work


And the new orifice is usually already attached to the original float arm....

Ian is a time served professional and one I would be happy to have working in my own house. Some posting on this thread aren’t.....
 
Ian is a time served professional and one I would be happy to have working in my own house. Some posting on this thread aren’t.....

However, lacks the professionalism to enter a discussion without being offensive to other forum members.
 

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