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When the gas cooker arrived on the seen the British house wife had to get use to using Energy rather than Temperature for oven control. Energy has always been the way hobs worked there have been one or two where probes could be used or it sensed centre of pan temperature but rare.
Microwaves in the 90's did start having probes but again in the main work on energy delivered rather than temperature.
The solid fuel and electric oven has always used temperature and there has never been a move to use the gas mark system with electric or solid fuel.
Often the temperature is controlled by boiling point and pressure cookers work at a range of pressures and as a result also a range of temperatures.
A slow cooker is very like an oven it can have either temperature or energy control so as with the gas mark system it can have 180W of power may be with an option to reduce with instead of Mark settings a simple off, Warm, Low, High setting. Or it can have a sensor and maintain food at 71~93 °C main point is it does not boil the food.
This not boiling has a advantage of retaining vitamins and a disadvantage of not destroying some of the toxins found in some beans.
So my wife buys a Tesco SCSS12 Slow cooker which says on the box "3 Temperature settings" but the instructions only call it off, warm, low, high with no temperatures shown.
Looking at the build I can't see how it would detect the temperature and the neon has two light levels between low and high but never switches off. And the riveted construction means not easy to see inside.
I can as with my beer brewing build a temperature controller but would guess if designed to use temperature control the element would be bigger than if designed as a power controlled device. So not sure adding on a temperature controller is really a good idea.
After being on a few hours the water was boiling which makes me think no temperature control even if it does say it has one on the box.
Since the recipes vary between types I do need to know which type. As to if worth taking back if it does not have temperature control I don't know.
After an hour the outside skin temperature was 58° C under the lid centre of food was 60.2° C so losses wise very little difference between the slow cooker and a simple pan. Only thing that may stop one using a hob and simple pan is the auto holiday shut down it does not say in cooker manual the maximum time you can use a hob for before it auto switches off.
In a casserole dish in the oven the moisture would not condense back into the dish as the lid would be too hot. But the sides of the oven are very well insulated so likely it would use less energy.
Since the outer skin is so hot ambient temperature and any drafts will clearly alter the temperature climbing it seems to be around 5° C per 15 minutes so it takes around 4 to 6 hours to hit 100° C so at around 7 - 8 hours it's been at boiling point for 1 - 2 hours but to me rather hit and miss.
Clearly not all slow cookers are the same and some are very well insulated and thermostatically controlled with a duel temperature first bringing it to boil and then an extended simmer with a delay timer.
TABLE 42.1 it would seem will allow the side to heat to 80° C (A part which need not be touched for normal operation) comparing inside and outside temperatures knowing in the end inside boils this unit must be very close to the limit. How any one doing a portable appliance test could find this out is another thing as 8 hours is a tad too long for a single PAT test.
Any feed back please?
Microwaves in the 90's did start having probes but again in the main work on energy delivered rather than temperature.
The solid fuel and electric oven has always used temperature and there has never been a move to use the gas mark system with electric or solid fuel.
Often the temperature is controlled by boiling point and pressure cookers work at a range of pressures and as a result also a range of temperatures.
A slow cooker is very like an oven it can have either temperature or energy control so as with the gas mark system it can have 180W of power may be with an option to reduce with instead of Mark settings a simple off, Warm, Low, High setting. Or it can have a sensor and maintain food at 71~93 °C main point is it does not boil the food.
This not boiling has a advantage of retaining vitamins and a disadvantage of not destroying some of the toxins found in some beans.
So my wife buys a Tesco SCSS12 Slow cooker which says on the box "3 Temperature settings" but the instructions only call it off, warm, low, high with no temperatures shown.
Looking at the build I can't see how it would detect the temperature and the neon has two light levels between low and high but never switches off. And the riveted construction means not easy to see inside.
I can as with my beer brewing build a temperature controller but would guess if designed to use temperature control the element would be bigger than if designed as a power controlled device. So not sure adding on a temperature controller is really a good idea.
After being on a few hours the water was boiling which makes me think no temperature control even if it does say it has one on the box.
Since the recipes vary between types I do need to know which type. As to if worth taking back if it does not have temperature control I don't know.
After an hour the outside skin temperature was 58° C under the lid centre of food was 60.2° C so losses wise very little difference between the slow cooker and a simple pan. Only thing that may stop one using a hob and simple pan is the auto holiday shut down it does not say in cooker manual the maximum time you can use a hob for before it auto switches off.
In a casserole dish in the oven the moisture would not condense back into the dish as the lid would be too hot. But the sides of the oven are very well insulated so likely it would use less energy.
Since the outer skin is so hot ambient temperature and any drafts will clearly alter the temperature climbing it seems to be around 5° C per 15 minutes so it takes around 4 to 6 hours to hit 100° C so at around 7 - 8 hours it's been at boiling point for 1 - 2 hours but to me rather hit and miss.
Clearly not all slow cookers are the same and some are very well insulated and thermostatically controlled with a duel temperature first bringing it to boil and then an extended simmer with a delay timer.
TABLE 42.1 it would seem will allow the side to heat to 80° C (A part which need not be touched for normal operation) comparing inside and outside temperatures knowing in the end inside boils this unit must be very close to the limit. How any one doing a portable appliance test could find this out is another thing as 8 hours is a tad too long for a single PAT test.
Any feed back please?