CU or Isolator switch in garage?

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Type B trips between 3 and 5 time full load current ... Type C trips between 5 and 10 times full load current ...Type D trips between 10 and 20 times full load current
Yes, I think we all know that.
Assuming a 40a Type D in the house protecting a 16a Type B in the garage, in most situations the 16a is going to trip first.
Maybe - that is the question we're discussing ...
a typical PSCC or PFC of a few hundred amps
will not trip a Type D 40a
Yes, I've been thinking a bit more about this. What I'd overlooked was that the fault current in a domestic installation may well be below 640A (maybe well below), it's quite possible that a D32 would never trip magnetically. That could produce issues in relation to disconnection times and would, I imagine, require a pretty hefty cable.

Kind Regards, John
 
Only experience left. The documents stayed behind when I retired. With nuscience tripping due to inrush currents to motors starting and power being switched onto transformer the "fast" 16 amp would trip open while the slow 40 amp remained closed.
Sure, but that's totally different, and precisely what Type Cs and Ds were designed for - to have much higher magnetic trip thresholds (not to act slower with the same current).
With short circuits faults both might trip but very often the upstream device remained closed.
Maybe - but that's what we're discussing, or speculating about - and I fear that we are short on hard facts!

Kind Regards, John
 
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Anyway, thanks for the feed-back aside of your secondary discussion. I have decided to install an FCU only as the installation has got its own 'exclusive' MCB in the CU.

I will let the sparky recommend the rating for the MCB
 
Anyway, thanks for the feed-back aside of your secondary discussion. I have decided to install an FCU only as the installation has got its own 'exclusive' MCB in the CU. I will let the sparky recommend the rating for the MCB
If you mean to run the cable (from the CU MCB) straight to the garage socket, with an FCU from there for the lighting, then I think that is very probably the most sensible solution for you. The 'secondary discussion' is really, IMO, essentially academic.

Kind Regards, John
 
Anyway, thanks for the feed-back aside of your secondary discussion. I have decided to install an FCU only as the installation has got its own 'exclusive' MCB in the CU. I will let the sparky recommend the rating for the MCB
If you mean to run the cable (from the CU MCB) straight to the garage socket, with an FCU from there for the lighting, then I think that is very probably the most sensible solution for you. The 'secondary discussion' is really, IMO, essentially academic.

Kind Regards, John

I was thinking of taking the cable from the CU into the FCU first and then from there two branches: one for the socket amd one for the lights. Can I put the two cable sizes (1.5 and 2.5mm) together in the same FCU? Or why would it better to go to the socket first?
 
There is access on foot under the cable, does it matter? there was a cable (pyro) already there, we removed it.
Why remove it?

Yes, it matters, as you are replacing the cable and become responsible for the clearance, or lack of, below it. The guidance is 3m.
 
Because the FCU would then limit all your sockets to a total of 13A.

Running it directly to the first socket would allow you to draw upto the rating of the breaker in the house CU from the sockets, and the FCU then provides the suitable protection for the lighting.
 
Because the FCU would then limit all your sockets to a total of 13A.

Running it directly to the first socket would allow you to draw upto the rating of the breaker in the house CU from the sockets, and the FCU then provides the suitable protection for the lighting.

I see what you mean but:
There is only one double socket, as I said on the first message, so, for instance if I connect:

socket 1- Lawnmower at 1300W 5.7A
socket 2- Machine in garage 1300W 5.7A

light: 100W 0.4A

Total design current: 11.8 A

I guess if I started adding plug adaptors and connecting more things I would go above the 13A on the design current
 
whats the rating of the MCB in the house?

If you put the sockets on an FCU, you'd need a second FCU for the lights, as they need to be protected by a lower fuse rating than the sockets.
 
whats the rating of the MCB in the house?

If you put the sockets on an FCU, you'd need a second FCU for the lights, as they need to be protected by a lower fuse rating than the sockets.

Like I said, the CU has not been installed, so the sparky will recommend the MCB rating. I guess the socket could be regarded as an external socket, connected directly to the MCB (say 16 A) and then take the spur from the socket for the lights with the FCU in it.

I just thought it would be nicer to have one switch that would disconnect everything in the garage but that could be done at the CU.

Or install an isolator switch (no fuse?) for all af them, instead of the FCU but I do not know about this.
 
If you want an isolator for the garage, run the cable into a 20A DP switch, then on to your socket and FCU for the light.

Should be fine so long as the MCB at the house is 20A or less.
 

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