Yes, I think we all know that.Type B trips between 3 and 5 time full load current ... Type C trips between 5 and 10 times full load current ...Type D trips between 10 and 20 times full load current
Maybe - that is the question we're discussing ...Assuming a 40a Type D in the house protecting a 16a Type B in the garage, in most situations the 16a is going to trip first.
Yes, I've been thinking a bit more about this. What I'd overlooked was that the fault current in a domestic installation may well be below 640A (maybe well below), it's quite possible that a D32 would never trip magnetically. That could produce issues in relation to disconnection times and would, I imagine, require a pretty hefty cable.will not trip a Type D 40aa typical PSCC or PFC of a few hundred amps
Sure, but that's totally different, and precisely what Type Cs and Ds were designed for - to have much higher magnetic trip thresholds (not to act slower with the same current).Only experience left. The documents stayed behind when I retired. With nuscience tripping due to inrush currents to motors starting and power being switched onto transformer the "fast" 16 amp would trip open while the slow 40 amp remained closed.
Maybe - but that's what we're discussing, or speculating about - and I fear that we are short on hard facts!With short circuits faults both might trip but very often the upstream device remained closed.
Sure, that's the 'proper'/formal way to do it - but it is also the option which many/most people who discuss garage supplies here are seeking to avoid.<pic of a switch-fuse>
If you mean to run the cable (from the CU MCB) straight to the garage socket, with an FCU from there for the lighting, then I think that is very probably the most sensible solution for you. The 'secondary discussion' is really, IMO, essentially academic.Anyway, thanks for the feed-back aside of your secondary discussion. I have decided to install an FCU only as the installation has got its own 'exclusive' MCB in the CU. I will let the sparky recommend the rating for the MCB
If you mean to run the cable (from the CU MCB) straight to the garage socket, with an FCU from there for the lighting, then I think that is very probably the most sensible solution for you. The 'secondary discussion' is really, IMO, essentially academic.Anyway, thanks for the feed-back aside of your secondary discussion. I have decided to install an FCU only as the installation has got its own 'exclusive' MCB in the CU. I will let the sparky recommend the rating for the MCB
Kind Regards, John
Why remove it?There is access on foot under the cable, does it matter? there was a cable (pyro) already there, we removed it.
Doesn't seem to me as if there is an electrician deciding things.The electrician will decide.
You don't seem to have a clue what the FCU is for.I was thinking of taking the cable from the CU into the FCU first and then from there two branches: one for the socket amd one for the lights.
Doesn't seem to me as if there is an electrician deciding things.The electrician will decide.
You don't seem to have a clue what the FCU is for.I was thinking of taking the cable from the CU into the FCU first and then from there two branches: one for the socket amd one for the lights.
Because the FCU would then limit all your sockets to a total of 13A.
Running it directly to the first socket would allow you to draw upto the rating of the breaker in the house CU from the sockets, and the FCU then provides the suitable protection for the lighting.
whats the rating of the MCB in the house?
If you put the sockets on an FCU, you'd need a second FCU for the lights, as they need to be protected by a lower fuse rating than the sockets.
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local