Death trap table saw

[Bilabong007]

Hi,

Just bought a table saw on gumtree for £40. Needed a work bench so even just the table was useful I thought. I appreciate that table saws are quite dangerous and I have never owned one so advice much appreciated.

He said it was complete, but it's not got the riving knife, to which the blade guard connects.

Think the one from a draper import will fit? it seems to have he same mounting structure for the current 10inch 1500w model they sell. I seem to ba able to source spares from draper.

The performance pro line of saw seems woefully under supported. I can't even seem to find the manual...

Thoughts appreciated.

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• Bilabong007
• 6 Apr 2015
• 1

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• Bilabong007
• 6 Apr 2015
• 1

Any ideas where the laser is on what the mounting point on the left is for?

Graeme

 

[Monkeh]

It's a B&Q cheapie. No support, no spares, no reliability, no power, and a high chance of maiming you are standard features.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Before you use it I seriously suggest that you get a riving knife and a crown guard for the blade because NO circular saw can be used safely without them. The riving knife needs to be no thicker than the body of the blade you use. I also strongly recommend that you print-out and read this leaflet (WIS16) from the HSE website because it contains all the safety information you need to have to use a circular saw properly. Yes, it's the HSE and some of the talking heads will be against it because of that, but the advice contained within it is extremely sound and based on years of experience.

 

[Dave54]

Just agreeing with J & K. That leaflet contains good advice. For Pete's sake don't be tempted to use it as it is.

 

[OwainDIYer]

Even private sellers on gumtree have a duty of care towards the buyer of whatever they sell, and contract law still applies.

It's not complete; it's not described and as contractually agreed; and it's not safe - I'd be asking for my £40 back.

 

[Bilabong007]

Thanks to all for advice.

If I can't fit a riving knife and guard I will be just using the router bit of the table. Trying to get one might be difficult as anticipated. I sent a pic of it to the seller and asked him to look for it. He said he'd get back to me, maybe he will.

I can find a few model numbers all from importers
Performance pro clm250lts
Macalister cod250lts
Craftsman (can see similar)
Draper (struggling to find the exact saw but many similar)

They all look pretty much the same in terms of parts diagrams so hopefully can source the spare from maybe draper. Anyone had any success doing this before?

Anyone got an idea about the laser or the mount position on the left?

Thanks again

Graeme

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If I can't fit a riving knife and guard I will be just using the router bit of the table. Trying to get one might be difficult as anticipated

First off for parts I'd suggest that you ring Solent Tools on 02380 578057 as they seem to handle parts for a some of the DIY brands such as Performance Power, Erbauer, Macallister, Power Devil, etc. It's worth a shot, IMHO. If they can't help you then it may well be possible to make-up your own from something like 1.5mm steel providing you have a vice, a hacksaw, some drill bits, some files, an angle grinder and a bit of patience. The problem about using an item from a different saw is that it might not fit the clamp correctly (although that could probably be corrected by judicious use of files). At the end of the day a riving knife, be it on a £20k panel saw or a £100 DIY saw is pretty much the same thing, a piece of curved metal with a slot in it shaped to fit the blade and with the front edges chamfered:

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• Deleted member 174758
• 6 Apr 2015
• 1

Above: Making a half moon riving knife. This riving knife is specifically designed to be used with an overhead crown guard but the photos illustrate part of the making-up process In order to mount a crown guard the riving knife needs to be extended upwards (see design below)

Below: Riving knife with mounted crown guard. Personally I'd extend the side/top cover back a bit to fully cover the blade, but this illustrates the method of mounting the guard onto the riving knife quite well

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• Deleted member 174758
• 6 Apr 2015
• 1

Secondly I'd forget about the laser. At best it's a gimmick on a small table saw - I've used them on industrial sliding table saws where they have a (limited) purpose, but for general sawing the rip fence is your main guide

 

[Bilabong007]

No joy ordering the exact part.

I does seem to mount the same way as the very similar draper model.

£6 inc postage so will give it a bash and see if I can make it safer

Thanks again

Graeme

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If that includes the crown guard it'll be money well spent

 

[Bilabong007]

Update:

Turns out the saw is still sold in uk by machine mart
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/...36-527-10-table-saw-230v?da=1&TC=GS-060611527

I ordered the draper riving knife and it fits perfectly. It also allows me to mount the blade guard and make the saw safe(r)

Shame the riving knife I got is bent.. 4mm out over its length. Will have to send it back and get a straight one

The left hand mounting spot is apparently for a jigsaw mounted to the bottom of the table. Anyone ever did this?

Graeme

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Good! Glad to hear that you got a solution

 

[big-all]

to mount a jigsaw you need an nvr[no volt relay ]
some form off clamping to fix to the machine
and a clamp/cable tie to hold the trigger on
plus a blade guard
and to do curved work you turn the pendulum action off

 

[Bilabong007]

to mount a jigsaw you need an nvr[no volt relay ]
some form off clamping to fix to the machine
and a clamp/cable tie to hold the trigger on
plus a blade guard
and to do curved work you turn the pendulum action off

I could rig up some sort of on/off switch no probs. I have a really cheap jigsaw that has a trigger on lock and I would be very surprised if it had the pendulum action unless that standard.

What would a blade guard look like? Does it come over the table or sit like a riving knife?

Thanks again for help and expertise.

Graeme

 

[Deleted member 174758]

What would a blade guard look like? Does it come over the table or sit like a riving knife?

Probably not a lot different to this one by the German firm NeuTechnik:

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• Deleted member 174758
• 11 Apr 2015
• 1

or this home-made one:

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• Deleted member 174758
• 11 Apr 2015
• 1

Although both of those incorporate tracking devices to make the jigsaw much more accurate (more like a mini bandsaw).

 

[Bilabong007]

Well I bought a draper riving knife with the correct mounting orientation. No mods needed except it was 4mm out (bent) along its length. Thanks draper....

Managed to flatten it and get it lined up

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• Bilabong007
• 28 Apr 2015
• 1

It also had the correct (I think) hole for the blade guard and it seems to function as intended now. Just need to cut the bolt and fix it together.

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• Bilabong007
• 28 Apr 2015
• 1

Did one rip cut with the blade on pallet wood and it burnt the piece quite badly. Looking at the fitted blade it looked ok, but I think it might benefit from a new better one for my uses. One like this maybe?

http://www.ffx.co.uk/Content/images/tools/LP30M025.jpg

Am I right in thinking the blade fitted is a cross cut only blade.

Anyone got a recommendation for a 10inch rip and crosscut multi or am I better changing them?

I'm keen to change the mitre fence as it may as well be made from cheese. Has at least 2mm play in the groove...

Any help improving my saw much appreciated once again

Graeme