Drilled through neutral, repair possible?

[cjp2k]

Hi guys, my kitchen fitter has drilled through the neutral wire on the ring main while fitting the kitchen units, it tripped the RCD and he's joined the neutral with a connector block and got it running again, I know this is not a correct repair,

What's the best way to repair this, we have a electrician coming later this week to second fix the kitchen, can he repair the wire properly, and would he be able to test the repair is safe, as I don't want the kitchen going up in smoke!

Thanks

 

[AL66]

Best way - replace that length of cable end to end.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Hi guys, my kitchen fitter has drilled through the neutral wire on the ring main while fitting the kitchen units,

How?

Where is the cable?

Is it in a right place, and he ignored the possibility of it being there, or is it in a wrong place?

[wiki]electrics%3Awalls[/wiki]

It's quite important - if it's not where it's allowed to be then your electrician will have to re-route it, which might mean removing kitchen units, channelling and making good walls, and so on.

 

[cjp2k]

I am not sure, I haven't seen the damage as I am currently at work, but I presume its in a allowed zone as everything else seems to be...

Changing the whole length of cable could be problematic as there is a newly tiled bathroom floor above!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Down to the kitchen fitter to pay for any remedial work if he screwed up.

 

[cjp2k]

Yeah he will be!
Just wanting to know if its going to be a big job to repair and take more time up!

Can they use a wago or crimp the neutral, would this be acceptable?

 

[JohnW2]

Can they use a wago or crimp the neutral, would this be acceptable?

No sort of 'unnecessary' join in the cabling of a final circuit is really desirable, even if a way can be found to do it which is compliant with regulations, particularly if the join is going to be buried/concealed.

Where exactly is this damaged cable - in the wall behind a kitchen base unit, or what?

Kind Regards, John

 

[cjp2k]

Its behind the fixing points of the wall units,

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So it could be made inside a flush box, with a blanking plate, which would make it accessible if need be (albeit requiring a wall unit to be removed), and would avoid problems of plaster, paint etc getting at the joint.

But really - replacement is the best option.

 

[JohnW2]

So it could be made inside a flush box, with a blanking plate, which would make it accessible if need be (albeit requiring a wall unit to be removed), and would avoid problems of plaster, paint etc getting at the joint.

Indeed - that's what I was thinking, hence the reason I asked trhe question.

But really - replacement is the best option.

I think we're probably all agreed with that - but the OP sounds unkeen to suffer the disruption and time that might require - so an 'accessible' joint is probably the next best option.

Kind Regards, John

 

[sparkwright]

What's wromg with contacting the electrician who is coming later in the week, and ask him ti come in early to carry out the repair?

I'm sure he will be happier to fix it sooner rather than later when kitchen units are in place and tiling done etc etc.

 

[OwainDIYer]

If it's in a permitted zone, solder or crimp and heatshrink.

 

[cjp2k]

I have spoken to the electrician on the way home, he said he would probably be able to crimp and heat shrink the cable, as long as that's safe then I am happy, granted a replacement cable would be better, but if there is no major problem with crimping all should be good, the repair can be accessible, so hopefully all will be well!

Thanks guys

 

[JohnW2]

If it's in a permitted zone, solder or crimp and heatshrink.

... and then plaster over it? Would you be comfortable doing that?

Kind Regards, John

 

[cjp2k]

It won't need to be plastered over as it will be behind the unit if that makes a difference?