Earth needed?

The IP66 socket to be fitted to my park/mobile home will only be used to power class 2 equipment.
That may be all that you (currently) intend to use it for, but that's not the point. You might drop dead tomorrow, and there would then be no telling what others may subsequently plug into the socket. What you are suggesting/proposing is potentially just plain dangerous, even if not necessarily dangerous to you.

Apart from anything else, as you were told in post #4, the Wiring Regulations (BS7671) require that an 'earth' be run to every accessory (including sockets) and every point in an electrical installtion, even if it is not currently required ...
BS7671:2018 said:
411.3.1.1 Protective earthing
..... A circuit protective conductor shall be run to and terminated at each point in wiring and at each accessory except a lampholder having no exposed-conductive-parts and suspended from such a point.
["circuit protective conductor" being what you call an 'earth']

o_O I have no wish to appear confrontational ...
That may not be your wish, but you nevertheless seem to be succeeding in achieving that! You might sometimes see people arguing that, despite the above regulation, not running an earth to some places in an electrical installation might not really be much of a problem - but not connecting an earth to a 3-pin socket is just ridiculous, and potentially dangerous.

Kind Regards, John
 
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While you may "have no wish to appear confrontational" you are being so.
While EFLImpudence wrote "You cannot do that.", and you can do that, what should have been written was "You MAY not do that."
In fact, "You MUST not do that." It appears that you
are going out of your way to be obtuse.
From where do you intend to purchase appropriate cable without an Earth conductor and, if you do have cable with an Earth conductor, why do you choose not to connect it - at both ends?

Even if it's your opinion that I am being confrontational I see no excuse for your use of upper case wording & red script. I am not a child (actually I'm in my mid 'seventies) & don't appreciate replies that verge on abuse. All I was trying to get my head around was why would a socket destined for class 2/double insulated equipment need an earth? As to the cable I already have an (undamaged) length of it salvaged from an electric mower.
If it is illegal to use this spec. of cable for my intended purpose would it be acceptable to run a additional single wire between the power source earth point & that on the socket? If this appears to be over-complicating the job it's because I have arthritis in my fingers & cannot cope with 'twin & earth' wiring.

As to my comments about continental 2 pin plugs I was unaware of their earthing facility ... you are never too old to learn
 
As to my comments about continental 2 pin plugs I was unaware of their earthing facility ... you are never too old to learn
Just one illustration, from Wikipedia (note the boits labelled "2") ...

upload_2022-4-5_16-18-43.png

Kind Regards, John
 
That may be all that you (currently) intend to use it for, but that's not the point. You might drop dead tomorrow, and there would then be no telling what others may subsequently plug into the socket. What you are suggesting/proposing is potentially just plain dangerous, even if not necessarily dangerous to you.
Apart from anything else, as you were told in post #4, the Wiring Regulations (BS7671) require that an 'earth' be run to every accessory (including sockets) and every point in an electrical installtion, even if it is not currently required ...
["circuit protective conductor" being what you call an 'earth']
That may not be your wish, but you nevertheless seem to be succeeding in achieving that! You might sometimes see people arguing that, despite the above regulation, not running an earth to some places in an electrical installation might not really be much of a problem - but not connecting an earth to a 3-pin socket is just ridiculous, and potentially dangerous.
Kind Regards, John

Thank you John, you have explained the situation without recourse to abuse, unlike someone else. I now understand, especially the 'drop dead tomorrow' as I hadn't considered that scenario !
At my age I cannot live with a twin & earth installation in confined spaces, so would running a separate single cable 'twix the earth connections (junction box & installed socket) be an acceptable solution ?
 
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Thank you John for post #18.
I've often seen those features on a plug, but like many others I suspect not known their purpose
 
Many thanks to all those who replied.

The IP66 socket to be fitted to my park/mobile home will only be used to power class 2 equipment. As such I plan to use cable intended for electric lawnmowers etc.
The sockets' primary function will be to power a battery charger (placed under the closed bonnet) as I have a parking bay next to the home, but don't have a garage.

What about the poor sod who comes along and plugs in a class I item, in ignorance of your primary function of only plugging in class II equipment?
 
Thank you John, you have explained the situation without recourse to abuse, unlike someone else. I now understand, especially the 'drop dead tomorrow' as I hadn't considered that scenario !
You're welcome. I almost cited another analogy - you might hypothetically build, or modify, a car such that the positions of the accelerator and brake pedals were reversed. That might be fine, and 'safe' for your use of it - but if someone else got into the car (whether you were dead or not!) .... !!
At my age I cannot live with a twin & earth installation in confined spaces, so would running a separate single cable 'twix the earth connections (junction box & installed socket) be an acceptable solution ?
I'm not sure that I understand the problem, whatever your age (and you might well not be as old as me :) ) - twin+earth or 3-core flex are not particularly 'large', and they are what we always use. At least electrically speaking, what you propose would be OK but, if you want to comply with regulations, they require that a 'separate' 'earth' wire be at least 4mm² in size.

Kind Regards, John
 
What about the poor sod who comes along and plugs in a class I item, in ignorance of your primary function of only plugging in class II equipment?

I'm tempted to say Harry that the 'poor sod' in question would most likely be someone stealing my electric & therefore deserves what he/she gets :censored:
Like these scum-bags that nick power cables from the railway & bugger up thousands of commuter's day.

I take your point though, time for a re-calculation.
 
I'm not sure that I understand the problem, whatever your age (and you might well not be as old as me :) ) - twin+earth or 3-core flex are not particularly 'large', and they are what we always use. At least electrically speaking, what you propose would be OK but, if you want to comply with regulations, they require that a 'separate' 'earth' wire be at least 4mm² in size.

It reads like it is mobile home wiring, otherwise known as a static. I don't know what the 'norm' is for wiring statics, but for tourers the convention is to use flexible wiring - no doubt to cope with the movement. Solid cores tend to break with vibration and movement.
 
You're welcome. I almost cited another analogy - you might hypothetically build, or modify, a car such that the positions of the accelerator and brake pedals were reversed. That might be fine, and 'safe' for your use of it - but if someone else got into the car (whether you were dead or not!) .... !!
I'm not sure that I understand the problem, whatever your age (and you might well not be as old as me :) ) - twin+earth or 3-core flex are not particularly 'large', and they are what we always use. At least electrically speaking, what you propose would be OK but, if you want to comply with regulations, they require that a 'separate' 'earth' wire be at least 4mm² in size.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks John, I was referring to stiff grey/flat cable that fights you all the way when trying to manipulate it into corners & wire into sockets etc. especially when you have arthritic fingers.
So my best choice for easy installation & compliance with building regs. is flexible 3 core cable ?
 
Thanks John, I was referring to stiff grey/flat cable that fights you all the way when trying to manipulate it into corners & wire into sockets etc. especially when you have arthritic fingers.
Yes, I realised that - but, as I said, that's what all of us (even us oldies!) usually use, and manage to use!
So my best choice for easy installation & compliance with building regs. is flexible 3 core cable ?
Yes - but it needs to be 'large enough' for the purpose in question - which will depend upon the rating of the fuse or breaker protecting it.

Kind Regards, John
 
Use Arctic cable in 2.5mm squared. Available at most wholesalers or from B&Q in short lengths.
 
He doesn't want to buy any, he's already got some scrap lawnmower cable..
 

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