Efficient gas boiler, show and tell

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Hi All,

I made my gas boiler very efficient and I would like you to have a look at it, if you are interested!

Here's my fine-tuned Ideal Logic Heat H24 real time performance.


The graph is interactive so you can click on elements to explore detailed use.

What have I achieved?

Even, and very comfortable room temperature during heating season at all times; day target room temperature is 1.6 C higher than night. The precision of the climate control is within 0.3 C of the target room temperature. Comfortable humidity levels between 40-60% at all times.

The efficiency of the gas boiler is over 90% and condenses most of the time. You might even see values above 100% due to the recovered latent heat from condensing (ErP data usually already includes latent heat value[GCV vs NCV]). Note: when you look at the graph, ensure the gas fuel usage reading is up to date as it only updates about every 2 hours.

Cost wise (gas), you can see can look at the daily gas kWh to compare with your use. Keep in mind though that the house has 155m2 floor space and it's a relatively new build (2017).

How was this achieved?

Opentherm + SAT (smart autotune thermostat). SAT tells the boiler what to do using opentherm protocol. SAT is an integration module that runs on Home Assistant.

SAT has its own heating curves and the parallel adjustment that is proportional to the heating curve. Then SAT adds the load compensation part. This means that SAT is a Weather + Load compensator which monitors the outside and the room temperature always and carefully calculates the control Setpoint. Then, in order to apply the Low-load control algorithm,SAT monitors the boiler flow water and the return water temperatures. As a result SAT calculates the ON/OFF times in 15 minutes intervals ( SAT is also able to extend the duty cycle if the control Setpoint is too high or too low ). These two developments work tightly together in order to prevent cycling and maintain the room temperature on setpoint. Moreover SAT uses the 15 min duty cycle instead of 10 min that the most commercial thermostats use, this helps to reduce the ON/OFF times of the boiler by 50% during Low-load control.

Apart from SAT, I also balanced the radiators which now don’t require any smart TRVs; and because I’ve got the S Plan system, I reduced the speed of the external pump where ΔT (flow - return temperature) is about 17 C. I also have a DHW tank which SAT now also manages which means that I can efficiently heat it up too.

The fine tuning is still in progress, and occasionally when you look at the graph, you will clearly see when something seems out of place, most likely due to errors in configuring automations in Home Assistant. You can read more about my experiments here:

In summary, even though heat pumps are most likely the next generation heating solution. You can make your existing boiler that supports opentherm (and many boiler brands do) very efficient, i.e. no need to switch unless you want or your existing boiler breaks.

If you have any questions, let me know :)

Credits to:
https://github.com/Alexwijn/SAT - for developing the algorithm, i.e. the brain behind the efficiency gains

https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/my-gas-boiler-data-is-live/25733 - for making possible to share real time boiler data.

Maybe it’s also worth adding some explanation around why my room temperature seems so high (Summer Simmer Index).

Imagine you have a thermometer that tells you more than just the temperature—it gives you the “feels like” temperature, factoring in not just the air temperature but also the humidity. This is done using the Summer Simmer Index, or SSI.

For instance, consider a typical thermometer that shows a temperature of 20.7 degrees Celsius on a morning. With the SSI, this reading might be adjusted to feel like it’s 23.4 degrees. At night, a reading of 19.6 degrees might be adjusted to feel like 21.8 degrees.

The reason for this adjustment is that the SSI takes into account the humidity level in the air. High humidity can make the air feel warmer than it actually is. This is because humidity, or the water vapor in the air, impedes the evaporation of sweat from your skin, which is your body’s way of cooling down. Thus, even if the thermometer reads a certain temperature, the actual experience of the temperature can be quite different depending on the moisture in the air. The SSI uses a specific formula to recalibrate the temperature by considering the effect of humidity.

So, I feed Home Assistant the RAW non-SSI adjusted room temperature, which SAT then converts and uses it along with the also adjusted target SSI temperature, so if you see 23.2, the actual, non-SSI temperature is around 20.7 at 50% RH. The RH in my house, varies between 40-60%, so the difference isn’t really huge but I guess it helps a little bit to make it as comfortable as possible.

Here’s a reference for SSI-adjusted temperatures and how they “feel” (not the actual temperatures)

21.3 – 25 °C Somewhat cool. Most people feel comfortable.
25 – 28.3 °C Optimal. Almost everyone feels comfortable.
28.3 – 32.8 °C Somewhat hot. Most people feel comfortable.
01 What is the Summer Simmer Index? – GC Wizard 1

Heat pumps are definitely the next generation technology, but we can make gas boilers much more efficient in the meantime :)

Thanks
 
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very interesting

were you able to get low flow temperatures without increasing radiator sizes?
does your boiler suffer from short cycling?

I am running an ideal vogue boiler using weather compensation and crude stat and timer controls. I get flow temperatures between 32deg and 48deg depending on outside temperature.
 
Thanks! I did not change my radiators, they seem to be ok but I was considering it. I think there could be some further efficiency gains but I am not sure cost wise it would make sense. Return temperature is under 30 C on average.

It’s not short cycling, but it’s working with 15min intervals during low load, which is a feature of SAT given the oversized boiler given the demand.
 
Very interesting, but I'm a bit confused by a couple of things?

How is efficiency actually being measured?

It’s not short cycling, but it’s working with 15min intervals during low load, which is a feature of SAT given the oversized boiler given the demand.

Could you explain a bit more about how that works?
 
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The gas reading is done about every 2 hours, so if you see anything above 108% that means, for the selected period on the graph, the gas reading has not updated just yet. The 108% figure is the max I would consider valid which is the latent heat. You can read more about GCV, NCG and ERP. EmonCMS app calculates the gas fuel in vs heat output by the boiler minus the electricity needed to run the boiler.

Also, use these values as indicators, in real world we will never be able to know exactly what the figure is, because there are so many factors.

Many gas boilers in the UK are oversized for what the house requires. If you are running you boiler in intervals during low load, the average output you get can help to tackle this challenge. You can read more about what PWM, power with modulation which is what is used to calculate how long exactly should each duty cycle be in order to get desired output.
 
I would say it’s a decent indicator given what we can calculate but with awareness that there are many more real life factors to consider.

Other boilers real time data that I know of for comparison:

Also, the ultimate goal is how comfortable the house temperature is and not the calculated data. The comfort has improved and I think that’s worth sharing :)
 
Presumably the only way to actually measure the efficiency is to measure the amount of heat outputted into the heating system versus the amount of fuel burnt.

What is the main basis of your calculation? Are you relating it to return temperature?
 
Opentherm tells the real time modulation of your boiler. Based on that information and the manufacturers data sheet, we can calculate the real time heat output.

For example, if the current modulation of the boiler is 0.5% (low load) and mean water temperature is about 40 C degrees, the heat output would be about 5 kWh for this boiler model based on manufacturers data.

You can read more about here https://github.com/Alexwijn/SAT/discussions/40 where I describe the calculation too.
 
That's what I had assumed. I couldn't see how it was possible to actually measure the efficiency without a test rig in a lab.

There are two ways to show efficiency, net and gross. I can't remember which way round they are. But one is between 8% and 10% higher than the other. Are the figures you are showing the higher or lower figures?
 
Yes, it’s not a lab tested calculation. I guess I could temporarily set opentherm to monitor mode only and compare the relative performance gains (with vs without SAT) that way.

In the link I shared in the previous post, I discussed the net vs gross efficiency too. According to the legislation and directives, ERP data shared by manufacturers is most likely GCV (gross calorific value) which includes that latent heat energy. What about the figures I am showing? I can’t tell because the manufacturer does not indicate whether the heat output data in kWh (not the seasonal efficiency as %) is in GCV or NCV.

It’s an interesting and quite complex topic and if anyone is able to contribute to this topic that would be great.

Also getting more boilers to compare the results would be nice.

The ultimate goal I have is the temperature comfort level, and that has definitely improved, and I wanted to share this with you :)
 
Cool project. If you were to fit a flow meter you could calculate the heat output with flow and return temp and cross reference with your gas usage to get a more accurate idea of efficiency.
 
Thanks! What do you mean by flow meter can I ask? If you are referring to flow water temperature only, then it is also provided in real time by opentherm, and both (flow and return) are constantly used to calculate and adjust the required heating curve (target flow temperature). For heating output, I use the mean water temperature (flow + return) / 2 as shown on the data sheet by the manufacturer. But I'm curious if you meant something else that could further improve the precision of the calculation :)
 

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