Electrician wants to test entire system before working

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A plane surface constructed approx 8' below the ceiling.
People have been known to walk on that ... But who gave them the right ? better get onto the DPM !!
 
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AdamW said:
brown-nought said:
New builds should put sockets/light switches between 450mm and 1200mm off the floor.

When I find the idiot who passed that one... Hmmm, wonder if you could use an extra-large, extra-deep skirting board, count that as floor and then mount the light switches at (what most would regard) a correct, toddler proof, aesthetic height of 1500mm?

Anyone know the building regs as to what constitutes floor level?

Yeah, it's the bit you stand on when in the room, it's called the floor!
 
Just put them a little higher and say you have allowed for underlay, carpet and rugs :LOL:
 
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A 1960's house, still with it's original wiring is a can of worms, with many hidden dangers, such as decaying cables, green slime oozing from the cables, and undersized or missing earthing conductors, a full rewire is recommended - call in a professional electrician in to check it over.

My late grandfathers house, built in 1961, was wired perfectly and still in use today. All overrated singles in conduit, and all the bonding is fine.
 
No disrespect to your grandfather that the wiring outlived him, just goes to show that electrics are pretty damn good.
 
yes the 450mm height I'm not keen on either, but as for floor height, the floor, as I see it, is the bit you stand on!! :LOL: :LOL:
 
came up as "similar to one you've just been looking at", didn't bother looking at the date, couldn't believe folks would ask about "defining floor height"
 
We need some extra plug sockets fitting in our 1966 semi - each room (except the kitchen and lounge) typically has just one single socket. I also want a new distribution board as I'm tired of changing fuse wire.

I had an electrician round last night who basically refused to do any work without testing the whole system. He spotted several old fashioned bakelite style sockets and suggested that he need to doing a full system check before he was allowed to change any parts of the system - including the distribution board. He expected that a complete rewire was needed. which would cost up to £3,000. Worse still we have cables running to the garage under several inches of concrete and all rooms are paped so it will be messy.

Our original plan had been to rewire as and when we decorated each room (we're currently doing 2 of the bedrooms and want the extra sockets).

Where do we go from here? He went on to say that it would soon be difficult to even get household insurance without having a electrical test certificate. Was he just trying to make a job for himself?

I consider myself a professional and in order to provide a professional service I have rules and regulations that must be taken into account.

Some electricians would add an extra socket and then, after testing to provide a Minor Works Certificate, could discover issues that are what I consider to be "the sting in the tail" by some of those who provide freebie quotes.

Regulation 131.8 states no addition or alteration... Shall be made... Which any addition or alteration relies upon, shall be adequate.

The importance of a Pre-Works Survey is second to none.

Your budget is to complete a couple of rooms at a time. No Problem.

A phased rewire may be planned where a new consumer unit is added via mains tails connection blocks just after the supplier's fuse and new circuits (after correct earth bonding is provided) are added to the new consumer unit as and when required.

This method is more expensive, but due to having undertaken no work on the existing circuits an electrician would only be responsible for the new work meeting Reg's.

Note: Whenever I undertake a Consumer Unit upgrade I undertake Pre-Works survey and test the existing circuits first. If circuits test out okay I proceed with the upgrade. If the existing circuits have issues to resolve, I charge £100 for the testing, provide a condition report and include suggestions/methods to bring the installation up to a safe state. It's down to the customer to decide what and when...

I prefer the existing installation to test out okay so I can upgrade and move on to my next job ;)
 
Some house building/contents insurance policies have small print which will indicate the policy is void without current electrical and/or gas safety certificates.

I haven't got hours to read through all the small print and I suggest you simply send a letter to your insurers asking to confirm that your insurance policy is still valid (and without any restrictions) without electrical/gas safety certificates.

The companies who do impose restrictions or void policies do not like to make such public knowledge, hence the miles of small print and the needle in the haystack.

And if I were to name some I am sure legal departments would start making anti-social jestures in my direction!!!!
 
yes the 450mm height I'm not keen on either, but as for floor height, the floor, as I see it, is the bit you stand on!! :LOL: :LOL:

Heights of sockets/switches/fuse box are to be no worse than existing (ie - the same) as part of a rewire, although I do recommend the DDA heights to customers.

Fuse boxes... All too often I observe these mounted high on the wall or low under stairs. I also observe too many 16th Edition Consumer Unit mounted in such a way as the MCB's are from top to bottom (or bottom to top depending on what way you look at it) due to space issues preventing mounting the consumer units so the MCB's are side-by-side and running across the wall. Please show me installation instructions where manufacturer's specify anything other than MCB's being installed sise-by-side and along the wall and I won't need to show those who mount consumer units in such a way the Regulations regarding following manufacturer's instructions!

Anyway, i would not want to be held responsible for an elderly or vulnerable person falling of a chair to re-energise a circuit after plugging a faulty appliance into such and the rcd tripping :unsure:
 
For the sake of the OP and not wanting to get too technical, my understanding is that a consumer unit change would require a full test at the end anyway and even though the existing wiring my be safe and conforming to the standard to which it was installed, the CU change will require it all to conform to the current standards. The electrician is probably quite sensibly suggesting the test at the beginning to identify any potential problems up front. As suggested a PIR will identify how the installation performs to current standards and would allow the OP to make informed choices about the upgrade and cost of the installation.
 

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