Energizer LED lamps - Amazing

[AndyPRK]

I get£21.02 and £1.75 respectively.

Arh yes, I knew my weeks weren't perfect. Over 26 weeks I now get £20.97 and £1.75.
But glad the magnitude was correct.

I really wish a 150W bulb would make a significant difference to heating my house, as said, gas is more efficient.

 

[JohnW2]

Arh yes, I knew my weeks weren't perfect. Over 26 weeks I now get £20.97 and £1.75. But glad the magnitude was correct.

Still factionally different from my figures - but that's because I didn't do in it whole 'weeks'. I did it for 365 days (ignoring leap years!) and then divided by two!

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

Although I have pointed out in winter heat from lights is not wasted, the point is tungsten bulbs don't last, every other week some where in the house there was a bulb needing replacing, I had a cupboard full of bulbs, seems never could standardise with E27, E14, BA22d, BA14d, and GU10 many bought in packs of 3 or even 10 so a lot of storage space to keep all the spares.

I don't have one spare LED bulb, if one blows I will replace it direct from the super market, as to if super markets will continue to stock the range of bulbs once people have all gone LED and the demand drops I don't know. But to date not a single 230 volt LED has failed for me. And likely when they do fail since most have many LED's within the bulb, it will not leave one in sudden darkness.

However LED's don't save energy, OK with gas central heating they may save money, however they are not called money saving bulbs, they are called energy saving which is incorrect when used in doors in the UK, OK in Turkey where it is a lot warmer than UK with air cons in most home they clearly save energy, but in the UK I don't think so.

 

[JohnW2]

However LED's don't save energy, OK with gas central heating they may save money, however they are not called money saving bulbs, they are called energy saving ....

OK, I see your point. However, even in terms of energy saving, it's not straightforward. If one has heating controls sensitive enough to detect, and respond to, the slight amount of heat generated by incandescent bulbs/lamps, there would be little energy saving at times of the year when heating was needed, but during summer (when the heat generated by incandescent lighting is just 'wasted') then LEDs would result in true energy saving.

Whether there would be energy saving over a whole year is obviously dependent upon one's pattern of use of lights and heating, and on how sensitive/'good' the heating control system is.

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

I am struggling to replace my single BC CFL's with LED's. I don't think the saving is enough to warrant it and the CFL's are far more reliable and longer lasting, IME. The oldest is 7 and a half years old and still merrily lighting the room brightly with little discolouration in the lamp.

 

[AndyPRK]

What brand and wattage are you using.

As you say not a massive difference in energy but they start up instantly

 

[ericmark]

Your comment of how sensitive the control devices are is very important. I worked in a garage, doors opened so often the heating selected was inferred, however near impossible to regulate. Switch off cold, switch on warm, in seconds, any idea of a thermostat was out, as they did not warm air directly.

If you can combine air heating with inferred then you can keep the air at say 16°C add the inferred which gives one the feel of being in a room at 20°C. It's all down to how many air changes per day, at say 24 complete air changes per day one would want a low air temperature and a high amount of inferred heating (assuming not using a heat recovery unit.) but at 1 air change a day one could likely get away without any inferred heating.

In theory you could have a LED lamp with a inferred ring around it and a winter/summer switch so in winter only is the heater used. In an electrical heated house, having a low back ground heat and PIR operated inferred heaters could work well, the problem is when we have cheaper heating.

How long a room is occupied also makes a huge difference, a church would likely work well with inferred heating as it would only be used for 3/4 hour three times a day. However it is the control where problem lies, outside at -10°C or 10°C the heaters are the same size, so combined heating works better, church held at 10°C air temperature and the comfort remains static from -10°C to 10°C.

Now I am a bit of a miser, so my house was kept at around 18°C and I got away with this until the tungsten lamps were replaced, now we have the temperature increase to 20°C in the evening as said before, open plan house and a simple programmable thermostat worked well. Mothers house with internal doors was completely different. Sorted now, but it has taken nearly 2 years of trying a selection of ideas to keep rooms at a steady temperature. My mother loves work, she will sit and watch it all day, in her case the LED lighting helped as wanted the same temperature all day.

But mothers house is a good example of the problem, while I lived at home I would see the Pet cam record 27°C and jump in the car to find out what was wrong, also go 14°C and with a 92 year old lady that was not what I wanted. When I came to live with her I found the thermostat was losing radio contact and so could cure it, but did not find this with random visits, it must be the same for any heating engineer, he visits for a hour and has to try and work out what is going on. OK may be they have seen it before, so work it out quicker, but when I started the hunt I found every lock shield valve was wide open, and it would seem the central heating installers had not made any attempt to set up the system.

There must be many homes the same, and with a central heating system heating some rooms to 26°C and other to 16°C any heat from the bulbs would not really be something taken into consideration.

 

[securespark]

Andy PRK,

Osram, either 17W or 21W.
Just seen Morrisons do LED GLS at £4 each and there is a 15W 1521 lumen lamp.
I have most of the house converted (apart from fluorescent battens in, kitchen and garage) but there are 10 pendant drops or batten lampholders with CFL's in.
I have 2 twin 8 foot fittings in the garage and three lamps have failed. Weighing up whether to replace the lamps with 8 foots, 6 foots with spacers or replace the fittings.

 

[ericmark]

I am struggling to replace my single BC CFL's with LED's. I don't think the saving is enough to warrant it and the CFL's are far more reliable and longer lasting, IME. The oldest is 7 and a half years old and still merrily lighting the room brightly with little discolouration in the lamp.

I would say your lucky, I will admit I have a folded fluorescent lamp used as a reading lamp in my office and the tube has lasted for years, and the cheap 8W lamps from home bargains have also lasted well, but the expensive Philips lamps were rather poor, and the larger 11W folded fluorescent bulb replacements used before did not have a very long life.

But if not broke then don't fix it, if they are doing the job leave well alone.

 

[ericmark]

6 foots with spacers

Did not know you could get spacers? LED tubes have really dropped in price, however seems longest is 5 foot, and I have 6 foot fittings.

 

[securespark]

Spacers have been around for a while. Seen them in some supermarkets.
http://www.maxlumens.co.uk/product.html
6 foot LED tubes:
https://www.internationalleds.co.uk...zgc0sHehDJrlw5gLEia4iu-V0cYFW2RcaAueBEALw_wcB

Saw some on ebay a while back but cannot find them now...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Has anyone actually experienced that? I have lived in a very large house, with an unthinkable number of lamps/light bulbs, for about 30 years. Those lamps/bulbs were originally all incandescent but, over the years, have gradually been changed to CFLs and, in most cases, now to LEDs. Other than a dramatic drop in electricity usage/cost, I really noticed no other difference.

That's why I keep asking people who put forward that theory to provide proper proof that it is correct.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Spacers have been around for a while. Seen them in some supermarkets.
http://www.maxlumens.co.uk/product.html

Did they ever make 8' T8 tubes? I thought that length was always T12.

Alternatively, do they now make 6' triphosphor T12s?

 

[JohnW2]

That's why I keep asking people who put forward that theory to provide proper proof that it is correct.

Indeed.

It's really the difference between theory and practice. It is apparent that, at some times of year, the heat introduced into a property by incandescent lighting would theoretically allow the use of other heating fuels to be reduced a little (to maintain the same temp). However, as I've said, I rather doubt that most heating control systems (certainly mine, albeit 'old') will actually cause a significant reduction.

In any event, eric has now largely moved to a semantic argument. Even if one were able to reduce gas usage slightly (in Winter) because of the heat produced by lighting, the relative price of the fuels would still mean that there would be cost saving to be had by moving away from incandescent lighting - but eric is now saying that, even if there is a cost saving, there is no "energy saving" (which, if all other things were equal, would be true during times of the year when heating was required).

Kind Regards, John

 

[AndyPRK]

Andy PRK,

Osram, either 17W or 21W.
Just seen Morrisons do LED GLS at £4 each and there is a 15W 1521 lumen lamp.
I have most of the house converted (apart from fluorescent battens in, kitchen and garage) but there are 10 pendant drops or batten lampholders with CFL's in.
I have 2 twin 8 foot fittings in the garage and three lamps have failed. Weighing up whether to replace the lamps with 8 foots, 6 foots with spacers or replace the fittings.

Thanks secure.

I tried some Osram 20W? and wasn't impressed with the brightness (I found phillips 18W were brighter and smaller)
Anyway, now LED technology is good I can hopefully put CFL's behind me.

Thanks for the tip about Morrisons LEDs. I will take a look

And thanks for the tip on tube spacers. I didn't know they existed.
Will be good when my large diameter tubes go.

Is the starter that comes with it a blank or bypass or something?