Extending Circuits

[Greenie9657]

Good Morning All,

Just after some advise as I cannot see how this is going to look nice!!!

Im getting my CU replaced hopefully Friday (cant get hold of the spark to confirm, STANDARD!!), The new location is going to be around a meter or so below the old one. Just below the meter that you can see.

I was wondering how can all those circuits you can see coming in be extending and make it look ok? I don't want the sparky just to smash whatever on there to get the job done as I wont be around. I know you wont see them but the MRS will know its there if it looks a bag of **** and ill get grief forever!!!. If there is something out there I can buy I could go out today and get it ready but as I cant get hold of the electrician I cant check his advise. Could it be done with just choc blocks as its going to remain accessible? maybe put the blocks into one enclosure? I even thought about crimps but its how to make it look pleasing the eye (WIFE)

Any advise would be great.

Regards (im sorry its on its side, I have no idea how to spin it.

Untitled

• Greenie9657
• 31 Dec 2014
• 1

 

[Taylortwocities]

It looks like you only need to worry about the ones that come from above, as the ones from the bottom will reach the new location?

Personally I would leave it to the electrician. whatever enclosure YOU may choose will have to maintain the required IP rating on the top surface.

To do it properly I would install a box with a DIN rail and I would rather see WAGO connectors, or crimps, not terminal blocks. You would need to get ones that have the correct current rating. Do you know what each one is?

 

[Greenie9657]

Hi Taylor

I don't no which one is which but I only have 5 working, the 6th is an immersion heater that has now gone but I've asked for that to be made into attic electrics as it's redundant up there. The other 5 are up sockets, down sockets, up lights, down lights and cooker. I personally think wagos are the best thing since sliced bread. I can do electrics myself but I'm not qualified so I do have a selection in the garage he can use. I'm not a fan of choc blocks and I also have crimps for upto 6mm2.

 

[JohnW2]

It looks like you only need to worry about the ones that come from above, as the ones from the bottom will reach the new location?

True - but that is most of them I agree with the rest of what you say.

Any idea why those Henleys would be sealed?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

im sorry its on its side, I have no idea how to spin it.

http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/digitalphotography/f/sideways-pictures.htm

Or use an image hosting site which allows you to rotate images, such as postimage.org (so much simpler & quicker than the DIYnot album facility anyway).

 

[Greenie9657]

It looks like you only need to worry about the ones that come from above, as the ones from the bottom will reach the new location?

True - but that is most of them I agree with the rest of what you say.

Any idea why those Henleys would be sealed?

Kind Regards, John

Hi John,

Ive had to write some instruction down for the sparky as I cant get hold of him and im not here for the next week. Ive asked if those Henleys can be removed and put in an isolator there. WYLEX REC2, or even drop the tails down and fit the isolator below the meter so its closer to the new CU position.
The only reason I can think that they are sealed is before I bought the house it was used as rented accom for student nurses so was probably to stop them tinkering with things.

regards

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Why do you want an isolator?

 

[Greenie9657]

im sorry its on its side, I have no idea how to spin it.

http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/digitalphotography/f/sideways-pictures.htm

Or use an image hosting site which allows you to rotate images, such as postimage.org (so much simpler & quicker than the DIYnot album facility anyway).

Cheers BAS,

Its because I have uploaded the picture from my phone straight to here. I usually go through my laptop so therefore I am able to rotate them in windows.

 

[deadshort]

I would strongly advise you leave the job to the electrician.

Kind Regards,

DS

 

[RF Lighting]

Why do you want / think you need an isolator?

If I were doing the job I'd install a 2x2 trunking from the ceiling to the new cu position and crimp the cables out in there. I'd also bring everything I need to complete the job with me.

 

[JohnW2]

Ive had to write some instruction down for the sparky as I cant get hold of him and im not here for the next week. Ive asked if those Henleys can be removed and put in an isolator there. WYLEX REC2, or even drop the tails down and fit the isolator below the meter so its closer to the new CU position.

That sounds sensible, and would be easy - no reason why the Henleys (or isolator) have to stay 'up there'.

The only reason I can think that they are sealed is before I bought the house it was used as rented accom for student nurses so was probably to stop them tinkering with things.

Fair enough - although it would only be a token impediment to tinkering! It may just be a safety issue - I've never been very convinced that most Henleys (when 'unsealed') are particularly safe (or compliant with regulations). Although the screws holding on the cover do have screwdriver slots, they usually also have a knurled outside, and therefore are often quite easily undone by hand "without use of a tool".

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Why do you want / think you need an isolator?

It's interesting that views about that are seemingly so polarised!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Greenie9657]

Why do you want / think you need an isolator?

If I were doing the job I'd install a 2x2 trunking from the ceiling to the new cu position and crimp the cables out in there. I'd also bring everything I need to complete the job with me.

There Is probably no need for one tbh. But ive seen many electrical injuries in my job (been in the aircraft engineering trade for 18 years) and having a way to isolator the Dist Board is something I wanted. Belts and braces I guess!!!
Its not costing much extra on top of the CU fit anyway.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Its up to you, but the consumer unit will come with its own double pole isolator (the MAIN SWITCH) so there is little point in having another with the same functionality only inches away.

You experience in the aircraft engineering trade will also tell you that the fewer joints and components in a circuit the better.

Some may argue (oh yes they will) that one can totally isolate the consumer unit by having an isolator but, in your domestic installation, it really is only of any use when the consumer unit is being changed; and that is what you are about to do; so it probably wouldn't be used again for another 20 years…..

****TTC starts wondering who is going to break the seals****

 

[EFLImpudence]

****TTC starts wondering who is going to break the seals****

I can do penguins as well.