It will cause either hot water or the heating to come on when not called for. Don't do it.
What you will end up with in your current scheme can be achieved more easily with programmable trvs.
Extra zone valve wiring in - y plan system
- Thread starter stu550
- Start date
It will cause either hot water or the heating to come on when not called for. Don't do it.
What you will end up with in your current scheme can be achieved more easily with programmable trvs.
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Dan - I only want the valve to open or close.... I dont want it to call for heat/ fire the boiler.
The house is a holiday rental.... so programmable TRVs will only get messed around with.
I just want the bedrooms heated between say 7.30-9.30am and 7.30-10.30pm.
Not during the day/ early evening.
The house is a holiday rental.... so programmable TRVs will only get messed around with.
I just want the bedrooms heated between say 7.30-9.30am and 7.30-10.30pm.
Not during the day/ early evening.
G
gaswizzard
The 'new' two port will have to be installed after the 3 port , I would of thought this would be obvious?
Cut the valve in on the leg that goes to the bedroom and wire
up the brown and blue only to a time switch or programmable
room stat.
New zone will only heat when port A open on three port and
boiler firing.
Hot water would not be affected.
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Can you please explain this? I dont understand why....
Here is a photo of the current wiring centre.... Im not sure where the forst stat comes into all this. I presume one of the grey wires....
View media item 50137
View media item 50137
Gassop -
Thanks - do the rest of the wires just wire into where the current mid positioon valve is wired into?
Also, will this mean the new zone valve will also open when the frost stat kicks in?
Thanks - do the rest of the wires just wire into where the current mid positioon valve is wired into?
Also, will this mean the new zone valve will also open when the frost stat kicks in?
So as I understand it, the two port valve will be installed after the three port and its sole function is to stop the bedroom radiators coming on in the daytime unless there's a danger of freezing. I'm assuming the physical pipe layout is the restricting thing here and that you just want to pop a valve in an existing pipe feeding the bedrooms rather than carry out a large amount of plumbing.
If so, then the orange & grey switch wires should not be used as they could start the pump and boiler running when the three port valve is pointing towards the hot water. Then as the radiators will not get hot and turn the thermostat off, the boiler and pump will run continually. Not good.
So the new thermostat should be connected to a permanent live so that the display and timing settings are not lost. This live can come from either the supply from the FCU to the wiring centre, or boiler permanent live, pick up a neutral run them both to your new programmable thermostat and then run the switched live from the thermostat and neutral to your valve. Here's a diagram.
It's not really ideal, but you will achieve what you want.
Stem - thats exactly what I wanted to achieve - thanks.
Only a few questions...! which colour cables do I use for the new zone valve and does it not need a permament live?
Secondly, if I wanted to install a timer, as opposed to a thermostat, is it possible to retain the frost control from the existing forst thermostat (which is currently the grey wire wired into the wiring centre connection labeled programmer - with the white wire also in (third connection from the left with two wires in), and is picking up a live from the boiler connection). All these are within the wiring centre and shown on the photo I attached.
I have just played with this and this fires up the boiler and starts the CH off.
Could I simply run a connection from the frost stat, to the new zone valve?
Not sure I have explained myself very well there!!
Thanks.
Only a few questions...! which colour cables do I use for the new zone valve and does it not need a permament live?
Secondly, if I wanted to install a timer, as opposed to a thermostat, is it possible to retain the frost control from the existing forst thermostat (which is currently the grey wire wired into the wiring centre connection labeled programmer - with the white wire also in (third connection from the left with two wires in), and is picking up a live from the boiler connection). All these are within the wiring centre and shown on the photo I attached.
I have just played with this and this fires up the boiler and starts the CH off.
Could I simply run a connection from the frost stat, to the new zone valve?
Not sure I have explained myself very well there!!
Thanks.
Let's answer you last post first.
Yes you need a permanent live.
Timer v programmable stat, the later is better as it will control the temperature, both can be played with. A timer could be locked in the cupboard or somewhere.
No, the way the frost stat is wired you cannot have it serving both valve as the existing will over-ride the new zone controls.
The CM 927 has a frost protection built in.
To wire the programmable stat you need a L & N. Link L to "A"
In the MV you connect the brown to "B" and the blue to neutral, make the grey and orange safe.
Yes you need a permanent live.
Timer v programmable stat, the later is better as it will control the temperature, both can be played with. A timer could be locked in the cupboard or somewhere.
No, the way the frost stat is wired you cannot have it serving both valve as the existing will over-ride the new zone controls.
The CM 927 has a frost protection built in.
To wire the programmable stat you need a L & N. Link L to "A"
In the MV you connect the brown to "B" and the blue to neutral, make the grey and orange safe.
Great, I think I am now getting there!! I can now see why the frost stat cannot be wired to the new zone valve so I will have to have a programmable stat unless anyone has any other clever ways as I would prefer a simple timer.
I understand I need a permanent live to the stat receiver, but does the zone valve need a permament one too? I am guessing not.
So.... five wires coming out of the zone valve:
Orange - not used
Grey - not used
Green/ Yellow - earth within wiring centre
Blue - to 'N' within the new stat
Brown - to 'B' within the new stat
Is that right?
Then I just take a live and neutral from the wiring centre to the receiver....
Simples?!
I understand I need a permanent live to the stat receiver, but does the zone valve need a permament one too? I am guessing not.
So.... five wires coming out of the zone valve:
Orange - not used
Grey - not used
Green/ Yellow - earth within wiring centre
Blue - to 'N' within the new stat
Brown - to 'B' within the new stat
Is that right?
Then I just take a live and neutral from the wiring centre to the receiver....
Simples?!
I am assuming I could instead use the spare HTG Valve terminals (except the orange) within the wiring centre and just put a stat inline with the brown going to the valve) and use the grey (constant live) to power the programmer stat if it is not battery powered?
You would need to check the grey and brown terminals with a multimeter to do that as link 4 & 5 is cut.
All the wiring is done in the receiver.
Don't forget you need the link between L and A.
The grey is constantly live and the brown becomes live when the CH is on or frost thermostat kicks in.
What link between L+A? Within the stat?
I was going to start a new thread for suggestions on a wireless themostat.... but if it is a simple answer... I would ideally like one when the programming is done on the receiver, and it is only the actual thermostatic bit that is remote- do such things exist? Just means I can lock away the programmer but leave out the thermostat.
What link between L+A? Within the stat?
I was going to start a new thread for suggestions on a wireless themostat.... but if it is a simple answer... I would ideally like one when the programming is done on the receiver, and it is only the actual thermostatic bit that is remote- do such things exist? Just means I can lock away the programmer but leave out the thermostat.
So you could use the grey as the live to L and the blue to N.
For the browns you'll need a connector.
You need to add a link between L and A in the receiver.
As said you could have a timer and just a room stat like the Honeywell 92E.
Have a look at the Honeywell "Sundial" RF pack 1
For the browns you'll need a connector.
You need to add a link between L and A in the receiver.
As said you could have a timer and just a room stat like the Honeywell 92E.
Have a look at the Honeywell "Sundial" RF pack 1
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