The 32a Mcb hole is empty.
Pair could have been in there.
Pair could have been in there.
Yes thats correct the pair is from that, theres only one going to the 40aThe 32a Mcb hole is empty.
Pair could have been in there.
Yes it was thanksI think the shower fault is more likely due to a faulty switch.
The property has had mould previously, its quite a damp flat.looking again at this:
View attachment 204780
It looks like we can see the extent of the black is only on exposed metal.
The mucky deposit:
View attachment 204782
is not the usual dust I expect to see in a CU.
These added together convince me this is an atmospheric issue. How much black mould is there in the property?
So if the guy can't do the remedial work, or further investigation then he is not qualified. So a code F1 due to locked door, that's OK, or no loft hatch that's OK, but an F1 code because he does not know what to do and wants his boss to look at it, means he is not qualified to do the inspection and testing???From the legislation:
“qualified person” means a person competent to undertake the inspection and testing required under regulation 3(1) and any further investigative or remedial work in accordance with the electrical safety standards;"
There you go - anyone who is able to do it is "qualified".
Ah, that's pretty sensible, then (for the blackened copper) - I might well have considered the same if it were me. It's so unusual for it to be widespread that I would certainly agree that one probably ought to get to the bottom of the explanation.Thanks, they gave “F1” code, “Further investigation to ascertain fault on circuit. on the black cables its “Further investigation to ascertain extent of thermal damage”
Potentially worse than that, given that not everyone is 'honest and scrupulous', even if qualified..... So a code F1 due to locked door, that's OK, or no loft hatch that's OK, but an F1 code because he does not know what to do and wants his boss to look at it, means he is not qualified to do the inspection and testing???
That is also what I would say, if he can't do the job, then don't even try. Yes I know the doctor can refer one to a specialist, but domestic installation is hardly rocket science, they were called house basher for years, as so little skill required.As for the IR and PIR, I would have thought that the obvious thing to do would be to disconnect the PIR and re-test the wiring at the time - rather than, by implication, say that someone has to come back and do that!
Kind Regards, John
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