Feeding new wires down a Stud Wall

[Chicken]

Isnt the back box just a means of securing the switch plates?

surely its just the same as having two back boxes side by side so that the two separate switch plates are side by side

 

[plugwash]

a double dryline box will not take 2 single accessories and seperation is also an issue

here is what i would reccomend

i would wire all of this in 2.5mm T&E for simplicity and protection from damage in the event of some idiot plugging something else into the socket

wire from a socket on the ring to a 3 module mk grid plus unit outside the bathroom like your existing switch this will need a 2 gang dryline box for mounting

in that box fit a fuse carrier module (with a 3A fuse) and 2 double pole 20A switch modules
then wire as follows (earths ommitted for clearness but all earths coming to a box should be connected)

[code:1]
socket
| |
switch
| |
| '------.
| |
| light |
| | | |
| switch |
'---| '-----,
fuse |
| |
L supply N
[/code:1]

with this method everything is on the ring so there is no problem with mixing cuircuits

everything is in 2.5mm so there is no possiblity of dagage to cables etc by overloading

and there is a nice 3A fuse stopping anything nasty happening to everything in the event of serious oveloading or short

 

[Big_Spark]

Chickin, with respect, you keep asking questions which indicate a high degree of ignorance of electrical circuits and installation Regulations and methodology, that leaves me, and i suspect several others here judging from some of the replies, that perhaps this is a task beyond your knowledge and experience.

Have you considered paying an electricians to do this?

 

[Chicken]

so your suggesting that I wire all the lights i.e. main and decorative to a ring main and not the lighting circuit!

You're a Genius, never thought of that!.

The entire house is protected with a consumer unit so I wan't too worried about short's etc

Had to upgrade electrics, It used to be 3 fuse boxes with no way of isolating them so I couldnt even uprate one for a more powerful shower!!

I know you can get single FCU's, but is there such a thing as a double FCU i.e. two switches two fuses that fits a double box or would I have to use the modules?

 

[Chicken]

Chickin, with respect, you keep asking questions which indicate a high degree of ignorance of electrical circuits and installation Regulations and methodology, that leaves me, and i suspect several others here judging from some of the replies, that perhaps this is a task beyond your knowledge and experience.

Have you considered paying an electricians to do this?

I have wired up lights etc. in several rooms with help from a very experienced friend, and wiring these lights would be easy if it wasn't for two factors -

1. I didnt want to knock out any more holes in walls

2. The so**ing lights can with a 3 pin transformer and not an in line one!!

Thanks for your help and advice.
Don't worry, I know when I'm out of my depth, I'm just exploring all avenues.
I was always taught it was better to ask questions and admit to being ignorant of things than stumble on through sheer pride and make mistakes! (and in the cas of electricity, potentially fatal ones!)

 

[plugwash]

afaict you have to use the modules

no need for 2 sperate fuse modules one fues 2 switches is fine in this application

with grid plus you screw a frame to the back box

then you wire the modules and clip them into the frame

finally you screw on the front panel

you can get grid plus modules in both black and white and you can get plates to match almost all of the mk ranges so it should be possible to make it look fairly similar to whatever you have in your house atm

 

[Chicken]

Cheers Plugwash,

Those module units look ideal, its a shame I didn't know about them 3 months ago when I put in the rest of the electrics!!

Thanks for your help

 

[Big_Spark]

[Don't worry, I know when I'm out of my depth, I'm just exploring all avenues.
I was always taught it was better to ask questions and admit to being ignorant of things than stumble on through sheer pride and make mistakes! (and in the cas of electricity, potentially fatal ones!)

Glad to hear that, hope no offence was taken by my comments.

Is the output of the transformer 12V ac or dc?

The reason I ask is that it may simply be easier to buy a different transformer, one that can be wired "inline" as a permanent installation so you don't need to **** about as you will with the one you have.

If it is dc, check your local Maplin or even http://rswww, they are bound to have a 230V/12v dc tx that can do what you need, safely and save a lot of messing about.

 

[Chicken]

It doesn't specify

It says Output 12V 6W on the transformer, i'm assuming that because its for LED's that its DC but Ive e-mailed the makers to see if they do an in-line transformer, but I doubt they'll be any help.

They dont like it when you start fiddling around with their products!

 

[AdamW]

They dont like it when you start fiddling around with their products!

You're right there, anything to get out of honouring a warranty!

However, as you know LEDs work off d.c. it is safe to assume that you realise that 12V, 6W d.c. from an original transformer is no different (in theory) to 12V 6W d.c. from a different manufacturer's transformer. So, whilst it would be great if they can supply you with one, don't be disheartened if they can't. Go with any quality transformer that meets the specs.

You do need to make sure it is d.c. first though. LEDs would light on an a.c. supply, they would just half-wave rectify it.

It does seem that a new transformer wired into your lighting circuit is the way to go, the allowed alternatives are all a bit of a kludge. An FCU, 18 inches from the ground is not ideal as a lightswitch. The only alternative I can think of is one of those remote-control plug-through adaptors. But only if they do a radio one (I think all the ones I have seen are IR).

 

[Big_Spark]

Chicken, this is the sort of transformer you need

If you notice the 12V dc output is rated at 1A (12W) and the Tx is designed for continuous use, which is the type you need.

 

[Chicken]

FWL_Engineer, this is one thing that always confuses me,

You state that the 12V dc output is rated at 1A (12W).
Is that what the transformer will kick out, or it it the maximum that is can kick out?

The one that was supplied is 12V 6W so wouldn't the one you suggest be too powerful and blow the LEDs

BTW, the link you supplied didn't work. the RS site just kept saying that the session has timed out. I hate it when that happens

 

[breezer]

BTW, the link you supplied didn't work. the RS site just kept saying that the session has timed out. I hate it when that happens

I hate that about the RS site too

in your words, no the transformer will not blow the Leds, as it will only "kick out" what is required (but more is availabale)

 

[Chicken]

Cheers, I thought it'd be ok but I wanted to double check.
Its the appliance that dictates the current, correct?

Do you know what a "Toroidal" transformer is, they keep on popping up on searches (aren't they something to do with bells?)

 

[dingbat]

Do you know what a "Toroidal" transformer is...?)

torus: n... a figure generated by the revolution of a circle about a straight line in its own plane... (Chambers)

In other words a doughnut shape. Anything so shaped is toroidal in form. The word has nothing to do with its electrical properties, merely its shape.

Hope that helps.