Hasn't burned out in 2 years plus, nor cooked a battery, apprentice boy. In any case if you are cutting constantly, that's means you must be the labourer or the apprentice. You still haven't answered that one, sonny
From the manual... Overheat protection
When the tool is overheated, the tool stops automatically,
and the battery indicator blink about 60 seconds. In this situ-
ation, let the tool cool down before turning the tool on again.
So you can read. That doesn't mean you understand the words. What the manual doesn't say is that the tool will overheat. What the manual says is that if you manage to overheat the tool it will protect itself.
The same type of protection system is incorporated into ALL Makita D-series cordless tools. Similar systems are incorporated into most (all?) other trade level 18 volt cordless kit. From experience I know that DW and Hitachi have similar protection circuitry in their kit). Not being old enough or experienced enough you probably don't realise that 10 or more years back it was necessary to constantly check your batteries for signs of overheating when undertaking tasks like large diameter hole sawing with a combi drill sawing wet timbers with a cordless saw, etc because tools lacked protection circuitry so you could cook batteries if you weren't cautious
On a few sheets now and again. Basically its "on site" trimming.
Not constant cutting down through a full bale.
Big difference. Thats when the battery powered stuff is put back on the shelf.
And the corded machines are brought in. And for that, I have a choice of 4 corded circular saws. In both 240v and 110v.
Simply because the battery stuff just won't "cut it" when the going gets tough.
We started out this thread talking about the use of a corded or cordless rail saw for breaking down or cutting single sheets of sheet material. That's what the OP wanted to know about. Now you are wittering on about "bales" of plywood. Must be using that term because English isn't your native language., or simply that you aren't very good with it. Keep on topic, boy!
As to breaking down large packs of sheet stock with any form of portable saw, just what bunch of second rate amateurs regularly does cuts like that? Anyone with half an ounce of common would understand that the "tool" for that job (at least in a workshop) is a beam saw (go ask the big boys what one of them is). Yet more of an indication that you are probably the idiot apprentice.
From a local supplier... Code.................Size............................Bale Qty
CDX12.... 2440mm x 1220mm x 12mm.......75
CDX18 ... 2440mmx 1220mm x 18mm.......50
When the truck arrives at our yard the delivery driver might say "six lifts of plywood guvnor".
I've been ordering plywood from a variety of importers in the north of England for several decades now. A banded pack of plywood from the guys I've dealt with is referred to as a pack. Transport companies often refer to things in different ways to merchants or importers. Pack, bale, who gives a stuff. Stay on topic!
If you tried using your knowledge to help a few more people on here with, say, real woodworking problems and maybe you'd get a bit more respect. But you don't, because seemingly you can"t. Prove me wrong.
So a corded saw is the one to go for then. I won't use it to cut stacks of ply. I cut ply but mostly single sheets, softwood, hardwoods to build stuff. I considered the Festool TS 55 because I read good things about it. Maffell MT55 was mentioned here too. I'm looking for a plunge saw that would be accurate, durable and with good ergonomics, which one would you recommend?
Corded by far the cheaper option@ £522 inc vat.
Cordless @ £846 inc vat.
And thats with 2 batteries. When they drain, you are stuffed.
I could easily go Mafell cordless as I already have the Metabo batteries.
Which are part of the CAS system.
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