Choosing a circular saw for cutting through floorboards

Chipboard for floors was introduced as it's cheaper to buy than real wood, and quicker (therefore cheaper) to install.

Nothing about its introduction was based on it being a better material. If you look at furniture, it's the cheap stuff that's made from chipboard, and as the makers seek to bring ever cheaper products to market some of it is little better than Weetabix.

Stuff sold for flooring will of course be better than what the volume makers of flat-pack furniture use, but even so I'm not a fan of it as a material, nor a fan of large panels for floors because of access problems later (which is why they sell solid board cutters & plugs...)
 
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Fair enough. If no-one will want to re-use them maybe I won't worry about damaging them
How old are they? What condition are they? Photos?

There's definitely a market for reclaimed floorboards which can be used as the visible floor.

These people make engineered floors from reclaimed boards, but their photos are good to show the look that people will pay for.



, although I could potentially use them myself in the future to clad a garden house in my parent's garden, as I saw someone who did that on a programme the other day.
I hope the programme makers return in 2-3 years to see how well untreated softwood cladding is faring... ;)
 
The a-hole that built my extension used regular t&g flooring. As soon as the plasterers finished rendering the thermolite bricks, I had to rip up all of the swollen flooring up. I went with ply (with supports under the meeting edges).
 
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I hope the programme makers return in 2-3 years to see how well untreated softwood cladding is faring... ;)

I have worked in a couple of houses that had the Changing Rooms team in to makeover a room, the quality of work was shocking. It looked ok on small analogue TVs but pants in the real world.

Those programmes were a precursor to the drivel on the like of youtube and tiktok.
 
Chipboard for floors was introduced as it's cheaper to buy than real wood, and quicker (therefore cheaper) to install.

Nothing about its introduction was based on it being a better material. If you look at furniture, it's the cheap stuff that's made from chipboard, and as the makers seek to bring ever cheaper products to market some of it is little better than Weetabix.

Stuff sold for flooring will of course be better than what the volume makers of flat-pack furniture use, but even so I'm not a fan of it as a material, nor a fan of large panels for floors because of access problems later (which is why they sell solid board cutters & plugs...)
Regarding large panels, there isn't really any other choice if you need to properly soundproof the floor. I won't really need to worry about access later, as the central heating plumbing is all above the floor, and I'll be fitting new electric cable in conduit below the floor, so I shouldn't need access to that. I guess I could fit the new skirting with screws rather than nails so that I can remove it easily if I ever need to lift the floor.
 
Although that article is specifically about flats, it may be that there's a good reason to use ply for houses and they didn't consider whether it's essential for flats and just recommended ply for everything.

I'll have to ask some soundproofing experts whether ply works better than chipboard. I guess if it's heavier/more dense it could make a difference.
 
a trade off between a heavier material (ply) vs a more lossy material (chipboard) I guess.
 
Why does everyone hate chipboard flooring? 22mm 8x2 t&g screwed and glued on 450mm joists is the mutts nuts, far heavier than plywood. If I need access I'll get one of those saw things and make a hole in it.
 
Why does everyone hate chipboard flooring? 22mm 8x2 t&g screwed and glued on 450mm joists is the mutts nuts, far heavier than plywood. If I need access I'll get one of those saw things and make a hole in it.
I can't really use 22mm, even if 22mm chipboard is better than 18mm ply.

In the hall I'll be using 18mm ply or chipboard screwed to the "joists" to match the thickness of the existing floorboards and keep the height the same. In the other rooms, where I'm completely replacing the subfloor to soundproof, I'll be replacing the existing "joists" with rubber pads which are much less high, with two layers of overlapping 18mm on top, which will result in the same overall height.
 
How old are they? What condition are they? Photos?

There's definitely a market for reclaimed floorboards which can be used as the visible floor.

These people make engineered floors from reclaimed boards, but their photos are good to show the look that people will pay for.


I hope the programme makers return in 2-3 years to see how well untreated softwood cladding is faring... ;)
They're not in brilliant condition (I'll take some photos later) but I think most of them would scrub up OK, and if I'm using them for cladding I don't necessarily need complete lengths so could cut off any badly damaged ends.

Yeah, I'd treat any wood before using it as cladding, maybe with this method.
 

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