Fit Cooke & Lewis sink base.

[Draughtsman]

I have to fit a 1000x600 sink base for a left hand drainer so the copper will need altering (including the removal of the hot washing machine supply!)

Presumably I need to bring the risers so far up the wall so far and then switch to flexis? Approx how far up the wall should I bring the risers and what length flexis are generally used? Do you use long flexis and have a loop in each?

Thank you,

Dain

 

[Ian H]

I would cut the pipes just inside where the unit will be and fit a couple of lever ball valves. Then pipe from the valves to the sink once the sink is fitted.

 

[Draughtsman]

Valves? I usually just turn the mains supply off if I want no cold pressure, and the combi stops the hot side.

No flexis at all?

Is it not a good idea to use a flexi on the hot supply to the taps?

 

[Ian H]

Yes, use a flexi but for now terminate the pipes with valves, fit the unit and sink, then some pipe it up with copper and flexis from the valves to the tap.

 

[Draughtsman]

This is a 1st floor galley kitchen, there's a room below.

Valves to temporarily cap off the risers during the works sound good, but including more permanent compression joints than are absolutely necessary in the finished job I'm not quite so sure about, they're an unnecessary leak risk. What about long flexis down from the taps, to copper risers, as the finished arrangement?

 

[oldbuffer]

If you're happy to use long flexis I'm surprised you're worried by using compression joints in accessible places.
In my experience, fit a quality compression joint properly, and it isn't going to leak, particularly if you have the opportunity leave it in use for a few days then go back and just nip up.
Flexis on the other hand, particularly under sinks, get moved, go rusty and eventually split / leak.

 

[Burnerman]

Is it a requirement for check valves to be used on sinks? Unsure on that one.
John

 

[Draughtsman]

I suppose I could just get the unit fixed in place with sink taps and long drops attached, and then plumb the btms in to the existing hot/cold.

Oh, did I say..I'm putting a sit-on sink on the unit? Possibly not.

 

[dilalio]

It very much depends on the mixer you've bought/are buying. If it comes with flexis then just measure how far down into the unit they will drop, allow for unstrained connection to supplies and then just bring your hot and cold feeds up to that height (or a bit lower) with lever valves on them and a check valve on the cold at least.

 

[Draughtsman]

I'll have a separate riser for the washing machine supply, so obvs that needs a ball valve shut-off but why do folk have shut-offs on the sink mixer when the mains supply stop-cock does that?

I do have a stop-cock for the outdoor tap, under the floor of what was the emersion cupboard in the kitchem. 1st floor kitchens...stay well clear of them IMHO.

 

[Draughtsman]

Is it a requirement for check valves to be used on sinks? Unsure on that one.
John

Sounds good to me John.

 

[Ian H]

So if your doing something with the kitchen plumbing you can turn it off, then the wife and kids can still have a shower when you **** it up

 

[Gasguru]

Anyone on here ever bother to comply with the water regulations?
It might be diy but that doesn't exclude you from the law.

https://www.corgi-direct.com/water-regulations-guide-17950-3420294

 

[Draughtsman]

Anyone on here ever bother to comply with the water regulations?
It might be diy but that doesn't exclude you from the law.

https://www.corgi-direct.com/water-regulations-guide-17950-3420294

Check valves are a legal requirement? Can someone quote me the relevant subsection?

 

[Draughtsman]

So if your doing something with the kitchen plumbing you can turn it off, then the wife and kids can still have a shower when you **** it up

I try to avoid compression joints generally, but in inaccessible areas? Always.