Fitzgerald Choke Ballast CK120Z 20W

[securespark]

What starter do you use with this?

 

[Echo the husky]

I would have thought a standard FSU starter would do it 4-65Watt. Are you having problems getting it to work?

 

[securespark]

Just asking as I sold one on ebay and the chap is using a Philips S10, 4-65W starter. He says the choke is not working but he says that the starter is glowing when powered up.

Surely that means the choke is OK?

 

[Echo the husky]

If the starter is glowing it should also stop glowing at some point when the starters contacts close. If this isn't happening I would try a new starter first. If the ballast was open it wouldn't glow at all.

If it was shorted or had a shorted turn I don't know what would happen. I guess the filaments would be blown when the starter closes, and then nothing would happen as the circuit would be incomplete??

There are figures sometimes available that list the current that will flow if the ballast is connected across live and neutral. Checking the current with the datasheet would confirm if it is working correctly, but this is rather extreme. I would try a new starter first, followed by a new tube.

 

[securespark]

Cheers, erm.......Echo???

 

[Iggifer]

Just asking as I sold one on ebay and the chap is using a Philips S10, 4-65W starter. He says the choke is not working but he says that the starter is glowing when powered up.

Surely that means the choke is OK?

I always use S2's on an ~20w fitting. I find they strike much better. I think they're 4-22W as opposed to 4-65w. Had some lay in modulars recently that standard FSU starters wouldn't strike. S2's cured the problem.

 

[Echo the husky]

Certainly worth a try. The BG FS2 ones I have in front of me are listed 4,6,8W for single tube 220-240v operation.

The FSUs are marked 4-8W etc. but didn't work for me with 8W single tubes the other day. S2 worked perfectly.

 

[securespark]

Thanks, fellas.

Yeah, I seem to remember S2 starters in relation to lower wattage flu tubes.

Hope I can get this buyer up and running!

 

[333rocky333]

I always use S2's on an ~20w fitting. I find they strike much better. I think they're 4-22W as opposed to 4-65w. Had some lay in modulars recently that standard FSU starters wouldn't strike. S2's cured the problem.

Are you sure, an S2 is a series starter it only does a single 20 watt tube running at 110volt
Its mainly for 2 series wired 20 watt tubes connected to a single 40 watt choke.
3 tube lay in modules would normally use 2 S2 starters and 1 FSU
4 tube lay in modules would normally use 4 s2 starters

SS, do you know what he is using the choke for, its highly likely hes using the choke for the wrong application, or hes a freind of "Winston" and reusing an old starter.

 

[Iggifer]

I always use S2's on an ~20w fitting. I find they strike much better. I think they're 4-22W as opposed to 4-65w. Had some lay in modulars recently that standard FSU starters wouldn't strike. S2's cured the problem.

Are you sure, an S2 is a series starter it only does a single 20 watt tube running at 110volt
Its mainly for 2 series wired 20 watt tubes connected to a single 40 watt choke.
3 tube lay in modules would normally use 2 S2 starters and 1 FSU
4 tube lay in modules would normally use 4 s2 starters

SS, do you know what he is using the choke for, its highly likely hes using the choke for the wrong application, or hes a freind of "Winston" and reusing an old starter.

I have always used them on lay in modulars, and to the best of my recollection, they have always only ever had two starters. Maybe I've been using them wrong! But they've never let me down. I've got S10s in the van too, but they get much less use.

 

[winston1]

SS, do you know what he is using the choke for, its highly likely hes using the choke for the wrong application, or hes a freind of "Winston" and reusing an old starter.

An old starter would probably be a known worker. He's probably got a dud new one. But he is not my friend so can't be sure.

 

[securespark]

SS, do you know what he is using the choke for, its highly likely hes using the choke for the wrong application

Apparently it is a straight swap for one of the same make and type. I am assuming the old set-up worked??

 

[333rocky333]

There are figures sometimes available that list the current that will flow if the ballast is connected across live and neutral. Checking the current with the datasheet would confirm if it is working correctly, but this is rather extreme. I would try a new starter first, followed by a new tube.

That would be extreme watching it blow up
Hes talking about a VERY old choke that, im sure has not even been made for over 10 years, that choke would be used in series with the lamp and NEVER connected across L + N hopefully, there is data on the website, but that refers to the current that the choke limits flowing via the tube, this is also stamped on every choke, however this current would only apply to a working tube.
With a duff tube there will be no current.
With a 2 foot single tube switchstart fitting, for a competant person only , is to measure and confirm mains voltage between 1 endcap and the other endcap with lamp removed, confirms choke ok
then confirm mains voltage across starter holder terminals with lamp in place, confirms tube and wiring in circuit.

 

[333rocky333]

I have always used them on lay in modulars, and to the best of my recollection, they have always only ever had two starters. Maybe I've been using them wrong! But they've never let me down. I've got S10s in the van too, but they get much less use.

Ive had many calls were a relampers fitted series starters and gone home with lights still on, then next morning they fail to strike, maybe you have been lucky, ive never really understood why theres so many different starters, they all look similar inside.

A majority of twin 2ft fittings are series, for cheapness so in your case its more likely the right use.

You can always tell series 18 w, as if you twist 1 lamp the 2nd will go out in symphopy, or the two lamps will not strike till you fit the 2nd starter.
of course the fitting should be isolated when you relamp, so you wouldnt be able to do that

 

[Echo the husky]

A magnetic ballast will limit the current flowing on an AC supply. It is safe to short them out, at least for a short while, the little ones allow surprisingly little current to flow. Try it sometime with 2 wires as a switch and you only get small flashes when you short them out.

I sometimes use larger ones to prevent big bangs when carrying out unsafe/reckless experiments. It saves fuses blowing/wires melting etc. I used one the other day on a faulty single oven that would randomly blow the 13A fuse, and trip the 32A MCB. No earth faults, the problem was L-N but intermittently. A series ballast allowed power to remain without blowing any fuses as the current was limited to a low level. This then narrowed down the fault to the oven lamp intermittently flashing over between the between the lamp pin and the threaded section. With the power still on I could hear where the odd arcing noise was coming from. A new lamp and holder corrected the problem.

Edit: see demonstration here.