Floorboard rennovation questions
- Thread starter Dylan123
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Added below - thoughts?
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You can’t see the pictures about? Grey sheet on top of bricks, 3 photos?
I don’t know, i can’t really tell without disturbing it.
here’s a pic. I sprayed a LOT of water on it, seems like it is slate.
against my better judgement (it’s so wet I can’t see how fibres could get airborne anyway) I tapped it lightly with a screwdriver. It’s hard, I would say the same as tapping brick.
not asbestos board right? That would be softer and wouldn’t make a tapping sound from a screwdriver?
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D
Deleted member 174758
They started using asbestos sheet in construction about the end of the 19th century, commonly used in council buildings (houses, schools, offices es, etc) from the early 1930s onwards. Was widely regarded at the time as a miracle material - but then the Edwardians put radium in makeup and drinks....
Lot of Asbestolux was put in as retrofit in the 50s and on. Just because the house was built in 1939 doesn't make everything original
OP: asbestos is fairly soft, cement asbestos is hard and brittle
well, see pic, it went slate coloured when wet and tapped like slate would....think it’s safe to say it’s slate? It’s almost black when wet, I thought AIB is white, I had it in parent home and it’s like a kind Half plasterboard half mineral fibre look to it....
There was a faux fireplace before. It was made of brick and cement. I’d estimate 70s or 80s. The Mortar was standard grey compo type you see everywhere. I did wonder after if it had asbestos in it but this was after I spent 2 days chiselling it out. It didn’t break up into dust anyway....I didn’t immediately think it would be asbestos plaster cement as it’s faux - there was a gas fire in there, perhaps it may have been 2% chrysolite but hey, too late now! I’ve done it.
the asbestos cement I’ve seen is kind of so brittle you can almost crush it with your hand - is that what you mean? If so, this sheet doesn’t look like that - you mean the stuff pipes were made of right?
D
Deleted member 174758
Yes. In a house which had coal fires you'll possibly disturb a bit of soot and lime plaster/mortar dust, that's all.
You don't get much asbestos used in mortar, nor in plaster, fortunately. If it were common I'm sure I'd be dead by now! Asbestos cement was made in sheets (flat and corrugated) and pipe form - grey to white in colour. Pure asbestos sheet is generally white - it was often found as boiler lagging and in airing cupboards in older council properties, although these days most of it has been removed
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haha, I found out recently about those old garage roofs being asbestos - I fell through about 5 of them as a kid larking around, hey Ho!
asbestos isn’t great but I tend to freak out if I think I have it in the house. It’s the kids mainly, I can assess the risk but they can’t make those judgements.
I grew up in a house built in 1969, it had a dry air blower central heating system, we took it out in about 2000 and I carried chunks of asbestos out, my dad wetted it down etc and cut it with no clouds...it was everywhere and in everything in that house. Parents still there, still alive, still good health, still smoking! Tendancy to overstate the risk, it’s just not nice thinking my one year old breathing that in!
I used to visit an old run down factory back in the day, full of it. Thankfully it was so wet in there that may be the saving grace.
Anyway, not sure how this got from a wood floor to asbestos management but thanks for your help, and to all the others. This forum is a godsend for me and I’m very thankful for the old hands helping me out - one day I’ll hope to do the same for others
Here’s another question to you or anyone else who’s interested.
I was of the understanding that ground floors, if you want bare boards you need to insulate under the floor.
now if there is little convection or conduction, and it’s all about draughts, why not just fill everything from the top diligently. I can use sawdust/pva/noggins etc and just block it all up then sand and varnish. This seems easier, and filling the gaps should make it look better.
the advice is very much to insulate a ground suspended floor. If I can just block it all from the top, is there any need to get up under - or is putting loft roll under just a better and more effective method with some added conduction/noise reduction benefits?
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