If you can chop away enough concrete to actually get to the pipe, without it cracking, then a McAlpine DC-1 will fit, finned end into existing drain, and 110mm from that as you require.
If you can chop away enough concrete to actually get to the pipe, without it cracking, then a McAlpine DC-1 will fit, finned end into existing drain, and 110mm from that as you require.
I never get to see it. Last time I unblocked it as I pushed the pressure washer attachment hose up to the T joint to the main line (about 4m from the gully) so I couldn’t see anything.
Is it possible to have the lid of the new plastic gully flush with the existing flooring without having to move the clay pipe? I wouldn’t mind having the sealed lid visible if flush with the tiles, I guess I’m asking if the new gully below floor level could be ‘extended’ so that the lid is higher.
Is it possible to have the lid of the new plastic gully flush with the existing flooring without having to move the clay pipe? I wouldn’t mind having the sealed lid visible if flush with the tiles, I guess I’m asking if the new gully below floor level could be ‘extended’ so that the lid is higher.
Having thought about this I think I can just install the gully at a low level and then just have an access hatch at floor level with the cover fully tiled according to the pattern of the rest of the room.
My question now is, do I need to install a bottle gully or can I use something like this?
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