Gurgling under kitchen sink but no water running
- Thread starter markjg123
- Start date
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Shortening A and B, makes for a tidier look to it, and gives extra space in the cupboard. C will need to be a different length, to it's present length, due to your new trap.
I would avoid using any flexible pipe, they trap dirt and clog.
I would avoid using any flexible pipe, they trap dirt and clog.
If you're handy and think you can take it on the get a length of 40mm solvent weld (SW) pipe (not from toolstation) and some SW glue and 2 swept elbows and a set of 40mm pipe cutters
Disconnect all of the waste/trap setup off of the sink waste and at D. Cut D further back and fit a swept elbow pointing upwards (don't glue anything at this point, all fitted dry 1st).
Disassemble the waste/trap pipework and refit A onto the sink waste and then cut the bottom of that piece until there's say 20mm of pipe showing between the waste and the connector with the appliance spigot (AC) below it and tighten that up. Then connect the cross piece heading to B, that'll give the length to cut B to suit, ensuring the fall on the cross piece connecting into the AC, as it currently looks, is maintained.
Then cut C until again there's about 20mm pipe showing between the nut on C and the adjustable trap below - don't forget that C can be quite long as it fits into the adjustable trap quite a way. Fit the new Adjustable trap with anti syphon/vac, that now give you a new outlet height.
Then back to D with it's new swept upwards elbow, cut a piece of pipe to bring D up to the same level as the outlet of the new trap, attach the other swept elbow to bring D out towards the trap outlet (you may have to trim some of the vertical pipe now as the swept elbow will have raised the level of the pipe a little. Add a length of pipe into the swept elbow to come outwards and fit into the new trap outlet.
Once it's all fitted properly and everything lines up and tightens ok, mark the elbows and a corresponding mark on the pipe so you can refit them in the correct orientation. Take it apart and glue the elbows and pipe together - just glue on the pipe, not the inside of the elbow and twist as you fit to spread the glue out.
No need to use a flexi on a sink waste - ever!
Disconnect all of the waste/trap setup off of the sink waste and at D. Cut D further back and fit a swept elbow pointing upwards (don't glue anything at this point, all fitted dry 1st).
Disassemble the waste/trap pipework and refit A onto the sink waste and then cut the bottom of that piece until there's say 20mm of pipe showing between the waste and the connector with the appliance spigot (AC) below it and tighten that up. Then connect the cross piece heading to B, that'll give the length to cut B to suit, ensuring the fall on the cross piece connecting into the AC, as it currently looks, is maintained.
Then cut C until again there's about 20mm pipe showing between the nut on C and the adjustable trap below - don't forget that C can be quite long as it fits into the adjustable trap quite a way. Fit the new Adjustable trap with anti syphon/vac, that now give you a new outlet height.
Then back to D with it's new swept upwards elbow, cut a piece of pipe to bring D up to the same level as the outlet of the new trap, attach the other swept elbow to bring D out towards the trap outlet (you may have to trim some of the vertical pipe now as the swept elbow will have raised the level of the pipe a little. Add a length of pipe into the swept elbow to come outwards and fit into the new trap outlet.
Once it's all fitted properly and everything lines up and tightens ok, mark the elbows and a corresponding mark on the pipe so you can refit them in the correct orientation. Take it apart and glue the elbows and pipe together - just glue on the pipe, not the inside of the elbow and twist as you fit to spread the glue out.
No need to use a flexi on a sink waste - ever!
I'm confident I can do that. Just two remaining questions:
1. Why not Toolstation?
2. What's the difference between these two trap types?
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Bottle traps are a little easier to clean out, when they need cleaning, luckily because they tend to block more easily anyway. Just one thing to undo, to clean them, plus a bit more compact.
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Their Aquaflow range of SW pipe and fittings doesn't seem to fit the other standard pipe and fittings for some stupid reason, seems to have a larger OD and ID respectively.
As suggested - the bottle trap is better for when there are space constraints as it's more compact, at the sacrifice of a bit of flow and can be more liable to blocking up - the P trap IMO is much easier to keep clean and tends to flow better - more prevalent if you have higher flowing appliances draining into the sink waste system
The 2 sizes they come in are - 11/2" (40mm sink) and 11/4" (32mm basin)
You want the larger 11/2" (40mm sink)
You want the larger 11/2" (40mm sink)
I now think the source of the noise is from my upstairs neighbour's pipework running behind this boxing in my kitchen. I can hear it plain as day standing next to it. The poor quality of plumbing in this conversion is beyond belief.
Ah, now that's a different ball of wax and now comes down to how well you get on with your neighbours.
Is this conversion new? If so there may still be an option to take it to the developers to sort out, it should be an easy fix.
Is this conversion new? If so there may still be an option to take it to the developers to sort out, it should be an easy fix.
I've only had this place a month and due to many boring reasons, I've not long actually moved in and then started finding all the problems. I think it was done in 2019. It's 4 flats over 3 levels in a listed mill conversion. Two share the ground floor, including me. Two share the top floor, and we all share the first floor. Work that out! The weird thing I have noticed is there's no visible external drainage pipework apart from the guttering. I think everything is running between the external stone shell and the internal walls to various underground drainage points. Is having your neighbour's drainage pipes running through your property even legal?
If it's an old converted building then part of the planning would probably have been to conserve/preserve the look of the outside of the building, which would mean that running new external soil pipe work wouldn't have been allowed.
Running all the pipework internally is perfectly ok but it is communal which means everyone using it is responsible for it and I wouldn't find it unreasonable to have a discussion with your neighbour over something that they use is causing an annoyance, just be reasonable. If they in turn are at all reasonable, they should be happy to work with you to resolve the issue.
If it's just running water noise then that's a little different and nothing they can really do about that. That would required the box section to be opened up and sound proofing added.
Would sound proofing make any significant difference?
I've not had time to replace the P trap under the sink with an anti-syphon version. I'm hoping that will at least eliminate the gurgling under the sink.
If it's just water noise then yes, it can do, will it completely remove it ..... hard to say. Really depends on the materials used.
I'm about to scream very loudly. I've bought and unpacked the mcalpine anti-syphon P trap and it's a completely different shape to the one I've removed. See photos. Section F on the existing trap is wide to accommodate section C 40mm pipe. The equivalent of section F on the new trap is not. £11 wasted 
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