Hard wired appliances

[cujimmy]

My daughter moved into a new (to her) house. I's actually about 2 years old.

They went to unplug the fridge-freezer & washing machine so that they could plug in their own. Both items were hard wired into outlets behind them, and couldn't be unplugged. I must admit I've never seen this arrangement before.

Is this normal, or can I fit 13A sockets instead?

On the wall, there is a switch panel where these, and other, appliances can be switched off.

 

[Steve]

Its normal in newbuilds. Its neater.

Why not leave the existing appliances in until they kaput?

You can fit 13 amp sockets, or keep the existing arrangement, lop off the plugs. It'll be cheaper. Someone will be about in a minute to warn you of potential problems with warranties. Ignore them, because the MIs usually say "if the supplied plug does not fit your local socket please cut it off and fit another one"

 

[ericmark]

The regulations say over 2Kw it needs dedicated supply for fixed appliance and that is read by many to mean hard wired. However when it goes wrong it's a pain not being able to move it outside to work on. Or even clear of counters. So I would always fit a plug.

For items using max amps for extended time then I would use a FCU. Immersion heater for example and maybe tumble dryer. However the energy efficient types are now drawing 1Kw or less unless boost is selected.

But although washing machine does draw max amps it is for short time so like the kettle also max amps it is not a problem on a 13A plug.

For portable appliances if a fuse is required it has to be built into the appliance but over 18Kg without wheels is not portable and where the plug is moulded onto the cable it could be claimed the manufacturer has included a fuse and to remove the manufacturers protective device without permission would likely mean if it went on fire etc. then they could use the cutting off of the plug to get out of any claims.

So no rules it's really down to personal preference.

 

[bhm1712]

all appliance manuals ive ever read give instructions on how to fit a new plug, so that people who need the cable to go through the side of a cabinet to reach the plug can rewire it correctly. my new washer dryer manual says

" your washer dryer is fitted with a non-rewireable moulded plug, however should you require the plug to be removed, in order to route the cable through cupboards, or to connect to a hard wired outlet, please follow the following diagram in order to re-connect. Please note: if a hard wired outlet is to be used an appropriate 13amp fuse must be used"

so i dont think manufacturers can dispute a claim because you removed their original plug...

my preference with hard wired outlets for appliances is to fit an un-switched 13amp socket instead of the outlet plate. makes breakdowns and moving things a whole lot easier. it also cuts down on the chance of making a mistake, or wear and tear of the back plate threads by the time the house is older!!!!

 

[spark1]

If these appliances are of the Built -in underworktop type, then make sure the plug is not going to foul the back when attempting to install the new appliance.

 

[cujimmy]

Thanks guys.

Think I'll fit 13 sockets as suggested and they can then move the things as required. They are dedicated outlets, as they are switched from a panel behind one of the worktops. From memory, the dishwasher and cooker hood are on the same panel.

Thanks again!

 

[Taylortwocities]

The regulations say over 2Kw it needs dedicated supply for fixed appliance

It is in no way that rigid. If it were a requirement it would be in 433.1 and it isn't.

The 2KW issue is only referred to in Appendix 15 (informative) where there a discussion on how to reduce excessive long-term loads on ring finals. It cites that one method that load reduction of ring finals can generally be achieved is by loads over 2KW having their own dedicated radial.

Going back to the OP.

The reason that there is only a hardwired outlet behind the appliance is because it is already fused at the switch panel. That's where there is probably a 13A fuse.
If you remove the outlet and put in a socket and plug in your appliance (also with a 13A plug) where is the fuse discrimination?

Also, is a bad idea to have fuses behind heavy appliances. The fuse is bound to go when the machine is full of water and wet towels. They are hard enough to shift when they are empty.

Leave the hardwire outlet there and wire the new appliance in to it.
In any case you'll probably find that the plug prevents the appliance going all the way back.

 

[raylec]

The regulations say over 2Kw it needs dedicated supply for fixed appliance and that is read by many to mean hard wired. However when it goes wrong it's a pain not being able to move it outside to work on. Or even clear of counters. So I would always fit a plug.

For items using max amps for extended time then I would use a FCU. Immersion heater for example and maybe tumble dryer. However the energy efficient types are now drawing 1Kw or less unless boost is selected.

But although washing machine does draw max amps it is for short time so like the kettle also max amps it is not a problem on a 13A plug.

For portable appliances if a fuse is required it has to be built into the appliance but over 18Kg without wheels is not portable and where the plug is moulded onto the cable it could be claimed the manufacturer has included a fuse and to remove the manufacturers protective device without permission would likely mean if it went on fire etc. then they could use the cutting off of the plug to get out of any claims.

So no rules it's really down to personal preference.

ALL ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES whether fixed or portable must have a means of isolating power near by. The lead if hard wired must not be longer than 2 mtrs. This is IEE regulations. Therefore no appliance can be hard wired to ring main,or to distribution board.

 

[EFLImpudence]

ALL ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES whether fixed or portable must have a means of isolating power near by.

Not here in the UK.

The lead if hard wired must not be longer than 2 mtrs.

Not here in the UK.

This is IEE regulations.

No, it isn't.

Therefore no appliance can be hard wired to ring main,or to distribution board.

Rubbish.

 

[JohnW2]

ALL ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES whether fixed or portable must have a means of isolating power near by.

A "means of isolation", yes - but where do you get the "near by" from?

Kind Regards, John

 

[deadshort]

If these appliances are of the Built -in underworktop type, then make sure the plug is not going to foul the back when attempting to install the new appliance.

Best bit of advice given to the OP.


Regards,

DS

 

[Taylortwocities]

Dear Mr Raylec.

Thank you for digging up a topic from more than 5 years ago.

Why did you do that from so far away?

Did you get a bit confused after all those Painkillers at Bomba's Full Moon Party? Or was it Trellis Bay, or you just popped in to Pussers at West End after the ferry trip from St Thomas?

 

[deadshort]

Your sounding like BAS


Please don't, ones enough


DS

 

[JohnW2]

Thank you for digging up a topic from more than 5 years ago.

... and three of us didn't notice! It all goes to show that eric's pronouncements haven't changed at all in over 5 years

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

Back to the name calling again?

It's sad that you can't be civil.

Everyone makes mistakes of that nature, even seasoned DIYnotters.