I'm not a fan of the big bank of grid swictches located somewhere in the kicthen, that seems a lot of extra/cable for nothing. I prefer to see an isolator near the machine its for before the cable drops down to the socket behind. You could argue that you can pull the machine out to isolate at the socket, but when its silly o clock at night and the machine is tripping the RCD, etc. Or you need to hard reset the electronics in the thing.
Yes, you can go to the minimum standard and say, yes, the regs allow you to class the socket outlet or the DB as your isolation, but every piece of equipment having an accessible local isolator is what I'd consider good installation practice, not an extravance
Our cooker has a clock, turning it off at the wall stops the clock, turning it back on the cooker works perfectly without tampering with the clock
Our cooker microwave a clock, turning it off at the wall stops the clock, turning it back on the microwave works perfectly without tampering with the clock
Our stereo has a clock, turning it off at the wall stops the clock, turning it back on the stereo works perfectly without tampering with the clock
Our cooker hood has a clock, turning it off at the wall stops the clock, turning it back on the cooker hood works perfectly without tampering with the clock
Returning your useless advise back to you, I'll hazard a guess your cooker will work without tampering with the clock
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