Headless wood screws

Sorry, perhaps I am being a bit dense... (meh, am on pint number7

If you are planning to use, for example 25mm MDF shelves in an alcove, and plain to use a router to create a suitably deep enough grove to hide the supporting screws, why not just set the router to cut a tad deeper?

If the shelves are less than 25mm. Why not use resin fix with threaded rod (cut to length as required)?


**************edit*************

Sorry, just re-read one of your early posts and see that you want to (potentially) be able to remove the screw/fitting later.

Still a tad confused though. You would be left with holes in the wall regardless of whether you can remove the shelves. That said, you discounted the original "dowels" that you found.

Can you be more specific about what you want to do?
 
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Have a pair in my work shop. Would have had these screws installed by now and no mangling.
By "mangle" I mean "mark". If they grip it hard enough to not slip they are surely going to leave marks. Which, I agree, might not show.

What I wanted was to just buy some fixings that didn't need cutting or grinding, didn't need gripping like that to be turned.

If I can't, then I can't, and I'll have to go with something other than what I wanted.

But I can't see what's wrong with wanting what I did.


You need to get your self up to speed on hand tools and whats out there.
It's true that I've not used mole grips for a task like this, and that therefore my view of gripping round things might be coloured by my experiences with other tools designed to grip round things.


I find it very amusing that you know electric but a simple task like this leaves you struggling.:D
Actually by far and away the simplest solution would be for me to find these:

upload_2018-10-13_20-43-22.png


But I'm not the only one struggling with that... :mrgreen:
 
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The example in my OP:

upload_2018-10-14_11-52-51.jpeg


take (looks like) a Torx bit, so if I left the machine screw end I'd not need locknuts/mole wrench/pipe grips/stillsons....
 
try googling (other search engines are available) part threaded rod.
 
mole wrench/pipe grips/stillsons....

You don't with those threaded dowels anyway. You tighten two nuts against each other on the machine thread. Then turn the 'front' nut to drive it in, turn the 'rear' nut to extract.

would be too long.

How much do you want sticking out then? Would using threaded dowels and then put a threaded sleeve nut on just finger tight to make it look prettier be any good?
 
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You don't with those threaded dowels anyway. You tighten two nuts against each other on the machine thread. Then turn the 'front' nut to drive it in, turn the 'rear' nut to extract.
Indeed.


How much do you want sticking out then? Would using threaded dowels and then put a threaded sleeve nut on just finger tight to make it look prettier be any good?
That might work very well indeed - probably 10-20mm protruding.
 
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If you are planning to use, for example 25mm MDF shelves in an alcove,
30mm chipboard. (But not the Weetabix you get in sheds these days).


and plain to use a router to create a suitably deep enough grove to hide the supporting screws, why not just set the router to cut a tad deeper?
Could do that - I wasn't going to bother with using a router - a drill works fine to create a semi-circular groove with a piece of scrap firmly clamped to the work. But yeah - if I really wanted none of the support to show I could rout a deeper groove.


If the shelves are less than 25mm. Why not use resin fix with threaded rod (cut to length as required)?
Not sure what you mean?


**************edit*************

Sorry, just re-read one of your early posts and see that you want to (potentially) be able to remove the screw/fitting later.

Still a tad confused though. You would be left with holes in the wall regardless of whether you can remove the shelves.
Remove to facilitate decorating, and then re-inserted.

I know, not a frequent occurrence, so even if I had been right about a gripping tool chewing up (even slightly) a smooth shaft I could always discard and replace.


That said, you discounted the original "dowels" that you found.
Only because they would leave a threaded end protruding, and I wanted smooth, but rsgaz's suggestion would fix that, or, as you observe, I could recess them so much that they wouldn't be seen at all anyway.


Can you be more specific about what you want to do?
Have "floating" shelves in an alcove.


upload_2018-10-16_16-41-16.gif
upload_2018-10-16_16-41-20.gif



I'll try to clarify my position.

I already have these shelves, but they are going to be moved to a narrower alcove. They are actually supported now on regular woodscrews left protruding from the walls and with the heads filed flat on the undersides so they don't stick out below the bottoms of the shelves. But it's always annoyed me that this was a bit of a make-do-and-mend bodge rather than a "proper" fixing.

Hence I asked. It's important to understand that (no matter how unjustified or naïve it was) I just assumed that the fixing I envisaged almost certainly existed, because that mindset, I hope, explains why I might have been a bit testy when people, with good intentions, suggested other ideas.

As an analogy, imagine a world in which there were no pickup trucks with 4-door cabs, and I wanted one, and just more or less assumed that they were made, and I just needed to find out, and so asked.

"What about an estate car?" "No, I want a pickup with a 4-door cab".
"You can get pickups with two rows of seats but only 2 doors". "No, I want a pickup with a 4-door cab".
"Buy a large van?" "No, I want a pickup with a 4-door cab".
"How about a 4-door car with a trailer?" "No, I want a pickup with a 4-door cab".
"You could by a Mercedes 600 and chop the back to create a 4-door pickup". "No, I just want to go and buy a ready-made pickup with a 4-door cab".


So I really am thankful to all who replied in the spirit of trying to help me, even if I might have not seemed so in my replies at the time.
 
Self tapping grub screw. Pilot hole required.
 

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