Honeywell DT92E

[old wrinkly]

Can I get a wiring diagram for the Honeywell Y Valve v4073a1039 so I can make a note of the connections on the Honeywell Junction Box diagram.


Forget that as I have found the info I need.

 

[stem]

As I said before unfortunately all wiring systems are all different, so one installer may use terminal 1 for the live another terminal 3 etc., However, I have made a sketch of your wiring centre by reverse engineering from the wires that you have told us about. I will post it here for you later, but I just need one bit of clarification. There is a red wire in the cable that goes to the boiler in terminal 7. Usually there is a black wire that goes with it in the same cable, but I can't be see it in the photo. I suspect that will go to terminal 8. Can you confirm please?

 

[old wrinkly]

stem

The red on terminal 7 seems paired with an orange from the black Y Valve cable and a green/yellow (but tagged with red tape) from the tank stat.

There is a black on terminal 2 which is paired as far as I can see with a brown from the Y Valve.

Really appreciate your time and effort.

 

[stem]

Thanks. I can see the red wire and the orange wire OK in the photo no problem. It's the black wire contained in the cable with 3 rings that I goes to the boiler, I want to know about, if it is present. Is there a black wire in this cable? and if so, does it go to the wiring centre terminal 8 or not please.

There is a black on terminal 2 which is paired as far as I can see with a brown from the Y Valve.

Don't you mean terminal 5? and the Y valve doesn't normally have a brown wire. I think the brown wire you are referring to goes to the cylinder thermostat, or at least I hope it does.

 

[stem]

There you go, based on your photo and the wires you have described. Still a couple of clarifications required. They are marked ? and relate to my questions above.

 

[old wrinkly]

Black terminal 5 (from the Horstmann Centaur) paired with brown to cylinder thermostat.

The black wire from the boiler cable (with 3 rings) goes to terminal 2 and is paired with a brown from the Horstmann Centaur and the brown live mains.

Hope this is clear as I have a problem bending down to see the cables clearly and I don't want to pull them about too much. When I rearranged the junction box several years ago I didn't take account of the fact that bending down and being able to see things close up clearly in a dark environment gets more difficult as you get older, had I realised that I would have placed the junction box higher. I also forget that the terminals are numbered both top and bottom.

I hope the next image gives you a clearer view.

The white cable that comes in from the right on the bottom is the mains feed and the white cable that comes in at the top (with the green/yellow earth on terminal 1) is the pump. The other white cable with the yellow tags is from the Horstmann Centaur.

 

[stem]

Black terminal 5 (from the Horstmann Centaur) paired with brown to cylinder thermostat.

OK yes, I can see that OK and it corresponds with my drawing.

The black wire from the boiler cable (with 3 rings) goes to terminal 2 and is paired with a brown from the Horstmann Centaur and the brown live mains.

I assume by terminal 2, that you mean the terminal second from the left, the one marked 9 on the backplate.

 

[old wrinkly]

Ooops my mistake, forgot to number from the right.

 

[stem]

Thanks. Your boiler installation is one that does need a permanent live, which from the second photos can be identified as terminal 9. There is also a blue wire visible in terminal 8 going to the boiler that I couldn't see before and assumed its function was taken care of by the unseen black.

So, I have revised the drawing as below. The difference being that the boiler has both permanent and switched live supplies instead of just a switched live.

It's not good practice to use earth wires for a purpose other than earth as has been done, in terminals 6 & 7 they should at least have a brown sleeve over them to identify them as a live.

For your new thermostat receiver's 230V supply, you can use terminal (9) second from the left as the permanent live, and terminal (8) third from the left as the neutral.

Terminals (4) and (3) counting from the right, would go to the receiver A & B, the same as they do at the present thermostat now.

 

[old wrinkly]

Thanks that's really great, even I shouldn't have any problem following things and I will make sure I keep a copy safe.

I will heed your advice about terminals 6 & 7. Perhaps my grandson could tidy up the wiring when he comes over.

How do I leave a thanks???

 

[stem]

You are welcome. I have seen worse wring, generally the wires appear to be well inserted in the terminals without swathes of copper on show, but the cables don't seem to be secured very well. There is just one cable grip visible at the top right, but hasn't been used.

Ideally when the lid is on, only the outer sheathing of the cables should be visible, and ideally held under clamps (if present) or at least securely clipped in place.

How do I leave a thanks???

You just did. But there's a button specifically for that purpose on the right hand side of each post. It appears when you move the cursor over it ----->

 

[old wrinkly]

Comments noted, another little job for the grandson when I get him here.

 

[old wrinkly]

Looks like it will have to be a DIY job as my grandson is working so many hours he can't get over, but I think with the info I have received I should be OK,

Just a couple of questions if I may. In his reply Dan Robinson said as I have an oil fired boiler not to forget to adjust TPi settings to only cycle 3 times an hour. What does that actually do (does it for example save oil).

Also with the ECO function am I right in assuming the following. I normally turn our heating down to either 19.5 or 20C overnight. If I use the ECO Function I can set the hours upto a maximum of 24 so all I would need to do is to set the ECO Function temperature to 20C press the function and that's it, no need to do a manual change and the system will revert back to the usual temperature at the end of the period. Could also use similar if going out for the day but no good for long term absences e.g a holiday.

Have ordered some brown pvc sleeving so will make sure the "earth" wires mentioned by stem are marked properly.

I need to explain this clearly to "the boss"

 

[stem]

A Time Proportional & Integral (TPI) room thermostat measures the room temperature and calculates the difference between the actual room temperature and the set room temperature, in order to work out how long the boiler needs to be fired. This is based on the information it has 'learned' previously from heating your property, and it means that the boiler is fired for just long enough to reach and maintain, but not overshoot the set temperature. Thus saving some energy. That's the theory of how it works, but how it relates specifically to the "3 times an hour" for an oil boiler, I don't know, but Dan's knows his stuff so I personally would go with it.

I seem to remember that the 'set back' feature allows you to drop (or raise) the set temperature for a chosen time period, I believe in multiples of one hour. You set a time period e.g. 2 hours and the temperature you would like it to be for that period. After the 2 hours has elapsed it will go back to the previous setting.

Because you have a Horstmann programmer that will still have overall time control for the heating on & off as it does now. So, if that switches the heating off during the thermostats set timed period, the heating will still go off.

 

[old wrinkly]

Thanks